This is the first time I have ever tried to 'splice' into a wire without cutting the wire. My question is "do I have to bare back part of the plastic covering for the splicing"? Also do I have to bare back the end of the wire being joined? I am trying to DIY on using the orange side markers so they flash along with the turn signal inside the head lights. I have attempted and thought that I had completed the passenger side. Still only the normal turn signal works. Nothing from the orange side marker. Thanks for any info. I am using the orange/red size splice connector. I also have a different size, the blue connector. Thanks for all comments and tips on the subject.

OK Forget this posting. I solved it. The wires do NOT have to be bare when splicing. I had connected the other end up wrongly. I was trying to splice that end at the orange side markers and should have cut the brown wire and connected the spliced wire extension to the brown. All working correctly now thanks. Probably one of my easiest DIY jobs I have done on the car. They look really neat especially as I still have the orange markers (pumkins) on the car. They flash independently to the normal front turn signals. About half a second apart. The side marker's still light with the side lights and only flash with the turn signals.

 

What did you use to splice it?

 

Just a warning (I'm assuming you're using those plastic splicer deals that you sort of push together and they cut the insulation a little)... those things suck donkeyballs in the long run and will eventually fail on you. When you have a little more time use a connector that you heat shrink on like this:


Here's the splicer clip I'm assuming you used:

 

KMagnus. Yeh that's the type that I used. I will keep an eye on the side markers. Should any fail then I will resort to baring the wire back and simply hand winding the wires and taping them up. I took the car out and hit as much rough road as I could find and they are working fine for now.

 

The blue thingy is a inline tap and they work great. I have used them for years with no problems
If you are splicing wires, either use one of them, strip the ends and a crimp, or remove the insulation from the wire you are splicing into and the end of the wire being spliced in and solder it. Don't just wrap wires and tape. It will corrode and eventually be a bad connection and even before corroding be a higher resistance connection

 

The soldering part is a great idea Jay thanks. I bought a new soldering iron a few months back. That method will become my mini DIY job in the near future. Fot now I will leave it 'as is'..

 

These little Posi-Taps also work great and are solid and reliable.

http://www.posi-products.com/index.html

 

That's because you are in CA where it's relavely dry. Use one of those connectors where it's wet all the time and the wire will start to corrode from the inside. Had an ABS wire once that even after 2 feet the copper was still black.

 

Solder and heat shrink is the only way to do electrical connections, anything less is just a hack job...congrats on your hack job

 

Not exactly. How many factory connections do you see that are soldered? I'll help......NONE! They are all crimped BUT they are weather tight. They key of crimping is to make them weather rights. The connector in the first pic is available where the ends are heat shrinkable plastic and are meant to work outside the cockpit. If you are using the none website tight ones, cover them with RTV to seal them up and you will be fine.

 

I used to believe this too, but was informed by a knowledgeable source that this is not always true. In fact in some environments, soldered connections are very much frowned upon, as apparently (and I have no first hand experience or knowledge of this) the combination of solder and associated flux can actually amplify corrosion. Watertight is key, if corrosion is an issue I would think.

 

the issue is related to air getting to the connection points and causing corrosion . crimping does make an airtight connection where the wires meet, so does soldering.

As far as soldered connections being frowned upon, I would be curious to who your "knowledgeable source" is and in what environment it would be an issue

If you use the correct solder and flux, there is no better connection. I imaging if you used an acid flux, there could be a problem later on if it was not cleaned after soldering and I have never heard of acid flux being recommended for electrical connections.

As far as factory connections being crimped, that is somewhat due to manufacturing methods and efficiency. Crimping terminals to be inserted into a connector is simply cheaper and faster than soldering

 

Acid free solder can be used to avoid corrosion.

Still the solder joint should be sealed against the elements even if it is not exposed directly.

(There are crimp connectors that when crimped break open a bladder filled with sealant that surrounds the wiring connection and seals it. I've used these before. Very nice.

Another consideration for a solder joint is possible bias of the electrical signal. Soldering a wire/connection for a light circuit is probably ok but for an O2 sensor not ok. The presence of solder can bias the signal from the sensor and this can cause problems.

 

JayG in the world of boating which is probably the harshest environment for wire connections the ABYC (American boating council) definitly is against soldering of connections. They recommend a proper crimp connection.
A couple of reasons being that a solder joint is subject to breaking as rest of wire is multistranded and designed to flex, a good crimp is as strong as the wire and there is actually some metal melt joining at crimp, also too easy for an amateur to make a poor or cold solder joint, etc.
Look it up.
RBC

 

That must be it. The source of the information I posted was from Marine industry. I thought it was something to do with corrosion, but now that you mention it, there was also comment on breakage. I know little about this stuff, just passing on hearsay