Advice on a 2002 911 Carrera Convertible
12-21-2015, 05:24 PM
#1
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Advice on a 2002 911 Carrera Convertible
I'm talking to a private seller for a 2002 911 Convertible with no service records. He's the third owner and has owned for a little more than a year and half. He's added about 6,000 miles and asking $15,000 for the car.
Here are the things I know about the car:
Rims are 21 inches and one is cracked, will need new rims and tires
Has an aftermarket fixed wing in the back. The mechanicals for the original wing are no longer in his possession.
Convertible top fluid tank has a leak, has to fill it up every 3-4 months.
Claims brake pads were replaced less than 6,000 miles ago and has the parts for proof.
No IMS or RMS replacement
Car is a 6 speed manual
No service history on the car.
The body has had touchups and some paint work, especially when they added the new wing
The VIN WP0CA29912S651443
Have not pulled a Carfax or Autocheck and looking to see if any has access to the services.
It's located about 100 miles outside of Houston but with the cracked rim and the different size spare, I may not be able to drive it too far to get a good PPI.
The key question is whether it's worth a risk.
Any guidance and advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
CP
Here are the things I know about the car:
Rims are 21 inches and one is cracked, will need new rims and tires
Has an aftermarket fixed wing in the back. The mechanicals for the original wing are no longer in his possession.
Convertible top fluid tank has a leak, has to fill it up every 3-4 months.
Claims brake pads were replaced less than 6,000 miles ago and has the parts for proof.
No IMS or RMS replacement
Car is a 6 speed manual
No service history on the car.
The body has had touchups and some paint work, especially when they added the new wing
The VIN WP0CA29912S651443
Have not pulled a Carfax or Autocheck and looking to see if any has access to the services.
It's located about 100 miles outside of Houston but with the cracked rim and the different size spare, I may not be able to drive it too far to get a good PPI.
The key question is whether it's worth a risk.
Any guidance and advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
CP
12-21-2015, 05:30 PM
#3
Race Director
Wow, where do I start. 21" rims, seriously? No records are a huge waring to me. Lots of potentially expensive fixes unless you are a capable wrench. I'd personally pass as there are plenty of better 996 candidates for sale. GL
12-21-2015, 05:43 PM
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I'm an OK wrench on basic items as long as I can get to it. Can't do major engine work but have replaced water pumps, AC compressor (had to take it in for charging), alternators, spark plugs but nothing overly complicated. Don't know how to do brakes or suspensions work.
I think new (to me) rims and tires will set me back about $1,500. The rest is unknown.
I think new (to me) rims and tires will set me back about $1,500. The rest is unknown.
12-21-2015, 05:50 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
Hydraulic leak on the cab will probably be $2000 - $3000; Michael Angelo's in galleria area can help with that.
Rim & tires sounds about right.
Car looks pretty sharp. Price sounds reasonable.
Get a PPI done to see what they can find out.
Good luck. Maybe we'll see you at a LoneStar get together.
Rim & tires sounds about right.
Car looks pretty sharp. Price sounds reasonable.
Get a PPI done to see what they can find out.
Good luck. Maybe we'll see you at a LoneStar get together.
12-21-2015, 06:43 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
As said in another thread, $15,000, 13 year old cars with 80,000 miles are not going to be perfect. They are going to have some issues.
Tires & wheels: get some 18" wheels. You definitely can find a decent used set of tires and wheels for $1,500, and maybe even a little cheaper. You might be able to sell the 21" wheels for few hundred dollars, so no big deal there - net cost may be under $1,000.
Paint: If you're gonna drive it (which you should), get over the fact that it's had some paintwork or touch ups.
IMSB: If you can't get a local PPI, then take it to a garage that will change the oil for you. But, just have them pull the filter out and let you look the oil filter over before they drain the rest of the oil. If the oil filter looks good (cut it open and look for only minimal shiny flakes in it) then go ahead and change the rest of the oil. Change the IMS Bearing next time you change the clutch.
RMS: Is this even a concern to anyone anymore? The doctors who originally paid $80,000+ these cars and had them drip oil on their surgically clean garage floors freaked out over it. No one else should.
No Service History: Set a good baseline by changing all of the fluids. Fix other stuff when it breaks.
Tires & wheels: get some 18" wheels. You definitely can find a decent used set of tires and wheels for $1,500, and maybe even a little cheaper. You might be able to sell the 21" wheels for few hundred dollars, so no big deal there - net cost may be under $1,000.
Paint: If you're gonna drive it (which you should), get over the fact that it's had some paintwork or touch ups.
IMSB: If you can't get a local PPI, then take it to a garage that will change the oil for you. But, just have them pull the filter out and let you look the oil filter over before they drain the rest of the oil. If the oil filter looks good (cut it open and look for only minimal shiny flakes in it) then go ahead and change the rest of the oil. Change the IMS Bearing next time you change the clutch.
RMS: Is this even a concern to anyone anymore? The doctors who originally paid $80,000+ these cars and had them drip oil on their surgically clean garage floors freaked out over it. No one else should.
No Service History: Set a good baseline by changing all of the fluids. Fix other stuff when it breaks.
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12-22-2015, 10:18 AM
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Thank you all for the great advice. The current owner mentioned the CEL comes on due to a possible O2 sensor. Not sure what to make of it.
Babylonboots - would love to meet the LoneStar group. Do you have any contacts in the Beaumont area for a PPI?
Babylonboots - would love to meet the LoneStar group. Do you have any contacts in the Beaumont area for a PPI?
12-22-2015, 11:05 AM
#9
Race Director
It would be nice to know the error code(s). While the problem could be with sensors, which are not that much money to replace, it could be with the converters, which can be much more expensive to replace, or the problem could be even deeper in the engine like perhaps the Variorum solenoid/actuator which can run several thousand dollars to replace.
12-22-2015, 11:49 AM
#11
Three Wheelin'
I'm not sure, it would really depend on the condition of the car and the price. All things told, if the rest of the car is sound, it could be a really good deal, or try to talk them down another few thousand and it could be a even better deal...
Also on the bright side you would get a non-oem 911 that, when sorted, would be a great canidate to put a lot of miles on and not have to worry about keeping it in a prestine condition - there is something to be said about that.
No records aren't a big deal for me. These cars are getting old and some are being passed through multiple owners and dealers. Mine, which turned out to be a pretty well sorted cab started it's life around the east coast NJ area, went down to FL for a few years, then up here to MN. Has around 6-8 owners listed on carfax. No big deal, no major issues with it, and it's a great car.
12-22-2015, 11:50 AM
#12
Three Wheelin'
As said in another thread, $15,000, 13 year old cars with 80,000 miles are not going to be perfect. They are going to have some issues.
Tires & wheels: get some 18" wheels. You definitely can find a decent used set of tires and wheels for $1,500, and maybe even a little cheaper. You might be able to sell the 21" wheels for few hundred dollars, so no big deal there - net cost may be under $1,000.
Paint: If you're gonna drive it (which you should), get over the fact that it's had some paintwork or touch ups.
IMSB: If you can't get a local PPI, then take it to a garage that will change the oil for you. But, just have them pull the filter out and let you look the oil filter over before they drain the rest of the oil. If the oil filter looks good (cut it open and look for only minimal shiny flakes in it) then go ahead and change the rest of the oil. Change the IMS Bearing next time you change the clutch.
RMS: Is this even a concern to anyone anymore? The doctors who originally paid $80,000+ these cars and had them drip oil on their surgically clean garage floors freaked out over it. No one else should.
No Service History: Set a good baseline by changing all of the fluids. Fix other stuff when it breaks.
Tires & wheels: get some 18" wheels. You definitely can find a decent used set of tires and wheels for $1,500, and maybe even a little cheaper. You might be able to sell the 21" wheels for few hundred dollars, so no big deal there - net cost may be under $1,000.
Paint: If you're gonna drive it (which you should), get over the fact that it's had some paintwork or touch ups.
IMSB: If you can't get a local PPI, then take it to a garage that will change the oil for you. But, just have them pull the filter out and let you look the oil filter over before they drain the rest of the oil. If the oil filter looks good (cut it open and look for only minimal shiny flakes in it) then go ahead and change the rest of the oil. Change the IMS Bearing next time you change the clutch.
RMS: Is this even a concern to anyone anymore? The doctors who originally paid $80,000+ these cars and had them drip oil on their surgically clean garage floors freaked out over it. No one else should.
No Service History: Set a good baseline by changing all of the fluids. Fix other stuff when it breaks.
