Going to look at a E36 M3
12-18-2015, 11:40 PM
#16
Three Wheelin'
Uh? You were the guy who posted this correct? "Ok, what does this have to do with a 996???? " You brought it up not me.
12-19-2015, 07:52 AM
#19
Rennlist Member
I had 2 e36 m3's. One S50 and one S52.
You'll def want to see how the auto's shift as quite a few at those miles can slip. Ask if tranny fluid/filter was replaced before. Rear Strut Mounts go bad often. Front control arm bushings, ball joints, tie rods go bad before those miles. Check to see if Vanos was serviced at all before. Valve cover gaskets turn brittle and go bad. See if there is any oil in the spark plug holes. Driver's bolster usually gets pretty worn out especially on M vehicle models. Ask if the shocks have ever been replaced. Make sure all the window regulator and sunroof motor works. Make sure the HVAC fan control works properly and AC holds charge. Check for leaking power steering rack underneath.
Also see if they guy has more than one set of keys since e36's have the EWS systems.
Those are the most common things to go out that I can think of at the top of my head.
You'll def want to see how the auto's shift as quite a few at those miles can slip. Ask if tranny fluid/filter was replaced before. Rear Strut Mounts go bad often. Front control arm bushings, ball joints, tie rods go bad before those miles. Check to see if Vanos was serviced at all before. Valve cover gaskets turn brittle and go bad. See if there is any oil in the spark plug holes. Driver's bolster usually gets pretty worn out especially on M vehicle models. Ask if the shocks have ever been replaced. Make sure all the window regulator and sunroof motor works. Make sure the HVAC fan control works properly and AC holds charge. Check for leaking power steering rack underneath.
Also see if they guy has more than one set of keys since e36's have the EWS systems.
Those are the most common things to go out that I can think of at the top of my head.
Varso - Good luck with it. At that age and miles, pretty much everything is suspect. It's not a lot of money to risk, but I would think you'd want a manual tranny if you are buying an M3 and taking on all that goes with it. Remember that parts for anything with an "M" preceding it can get pricey. Is it worth it if the car is saddled with a slush box?
12-19-2015, 08:50 AM
#20
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I had 2 e36 m3's. One S50 and one S52.
You'll def want to see how the auto's shift as quite a few at those miles can slip. Ask if tranny fluid/filter was replaced before. Rear Strut Mounts go bad often. Front control arm bushings, ball joints, tie rods go bad before those miles. Check to see if Vanos was serviced at all before. Valve cover gaskets turn brittle and go bad. See if there is any oil in the spark plug holes. Driver's bolster usually gets pretty worn out especially on M vehicle models. Ask if the shocks have ever been replaced. Make sure all the window regulator and sunroof motor works. Make sure the HVAC fan control works properly and AC holds charge. Check for leaking power steering rack underneath.
Also see if they guy has more than one set of keys since e36's have the EWS systems.
Those are the most common things to go out that I can think of at the top of my head.
You'll def want to see how the auto's shift as quite a few at those miles can slip. Ask if tranny fluid/filter was replaced before. Rear Strut Mounts go bad often. Front control arm bushings, ball joints, tie rods go bad before those miles. Check to see if Vanos was serviced at all before. Valve cover gaskets turn brittle and go bad. See if there is any oil in the spark plug holes. Driver's bolster usually gets pretty worn out especially on M vehicle models. Ask if the shocks have ever been replaced. Make sure all the window regulator and sunroof motor works. Make sure the HVAC fan control works properly and AC holds charge. Check for leaking power steering rack underneath.
Also see if they guy has more than one set of keys since e36's have the EWS systems.
Those are the most common things to go out that I can think of at the top of my head.
12-19-2015, 05:15 PM
#21
Three Wheelin'
Get a manual.
I had a '95 M3 and it was a great car for the price. Very user friendly, but expect some of the interior materials to disintegrate and the headliner to fall. Also, since you're getting a manual (
) watch out for the money shift.
I recently sold my S52 M Coupe (Z3 hard top) and the motor is very torque'y, but power is definitely down compared to the 996. If I were to go E36, I'd look at a clean coupe or vert (with hard top), do a turbo (or LS swap), coilovers, ZHP shift **** and wheels.
Reinforce those rear shock towers, I had to replace mine.
I had a '95 M3 and it was a great car for the price. Very user friendly, but expect some of the interior materials to disintegrate and the headliner to fall. Also, since you're getting a manual (
) watch out for the money shift. I recently sold my S52 M Coupe (Z3 hard top) and the motor is very torque'y, but power is definitely down compared to the 996. If I were to go E36, I'd look at a clean coupe or vert (with hard top), do a turbo (or LS swap), coilovers, ZHP shift **** and wheels.
Reinforce those rear shock towers, I had to replace mine.
12-19-2015, 09:05 PM
#22
Pro
got a 95 M3 Helrot red. 5 speed, black Leather, Headers, CAI, Chip, Camber plates, AST 4100, 550/650 springs, 17 x 9 rims and 255 tires sway bars, 147K miles. Goes like stink, 10K dollars drives it to your house.
12-19-2015, 09:34 PM
#23
Advanced
I have an S52 to go with my 996.
The M3 is by far the most reliable car I've ever owned. Of course you need to go through the suspension, and there are some platform quirks that are annoying. Overall though, it's a super solid, very rewarding car to drive - dare I say, more so than the porsche. Certainly there are other factors, my e36 has several suspension mods, the 996 does not.
Made 215 hp at the wheels today at a local club dyno day. Almost stock motor, 133k miles - still going strong.
The M3 is by far the most reliable car I've ever owned. Of course you need to go through the suspension, and there are some platform quirks that are annoying. Overall though, it's a super solid, very rewarding car to drive - dare I say, more so than the porsche. Certainly there are other factors, my e36 has several suspension mods, the 996 does not.
Made 215 hp at the wheels today at a local club dyno day. Almost stock motor, 133k miles - still going strong.
12-20-2015, 10:53 AM
#24
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I went MIA 
And I know this has nothing to do with my 996 but thank you for your comments. Looked at the car yesterday. For 146k, feels pretty nice and tranny shifts well.
Body is pretty darn straight though it needs a good buffing.
However, all these warning lights are on haha: ASC, ABS, BRAKE PAD, AIRBAG.
Interior is pretty tired looking but I do understand its a 97. A tiny rip in both front seat bolsters and door panels a bit scratched up. Also, I could have sworn tire sizes were offset on the M models but it has 225/45 17s all around. Not sure what a fair price would be considering everything, though the body is pretty good. 6k?
And I know this has nothing to do with my 996 but thank you for your comments. Looked at the car yesterday. For 146k, feels pretty nice and tranny shifts well. Body is pretty darn straight though it needs a good buffing.
However, all these warning lights are on haha: ASC, ABS, BRAKE PAD, AIRBAG.
Interior is pretty tired looking but I do understand its a 97. A tiny rip in both front seat bolsters and door panels a bit scratched up. Also, I could have sworn tire sizes were offset on the M models but it has 225/45 17s all around. Not sure what a fair price would be considering everything, though the body is pretty good. 6k?
12-20-2015, 07:45 PM
#25
I had a 98 M3 sedan.
I wouldn't pay $6K with all the issues you listed, especially for an automatic. You can find a well-sorted manual M3 in better condition for a grand more. The E36 M3 has a staggered tire/wheel setup, not square.
Great car. I miss it - it was so practical and rewarding to drive. Mind you, not a fair comparison to the 996.
I wouldn't pay $6K with all the issues you listed, especially for an automatic. You can find a well-sorted manual M3 in better condition for a grand more. The E36 M3 has a staggered tire/wheel setup, not square.
Great car. I miss it - it was so practical and rewarding to drive. Mind you, not a fair comparison to the 996.
12-20-2015, 08:20 PM
#26
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Thanks for the reply, yes just got back from a ride in the 996 and it feels much more refined. Though the S52 powered M3 is not slouch either! Really not a fair comparison!
I won't buy the car unless he takes care of most of the issues...however I am having him do a compression/leakdown test. Will see what shape the motor is in.
I won't buy the car unless he takes care of most of the issues...however I am having him do a compression/leakdown test. Will see what shape the motor is in.
12-20-2015, 08:21 PM
#27
I'd be more interested in the cooling and suspension system than the motor itself. These engines, for the most part, are pretty solid. The biggest Achilles heel on the E36 M3 (or any BMW) are the aforementioned.
12-20-2015, 08:32 PM
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Oh yea I know, he's throwing on a cooling system refresh kit from ecs tuning as well as coils/plugs before the sale so not worried about that. Think its radiator, thermostat, water pump, etc.
I was just worried about the dash lights. Probably need to just pull codes via a scan tool.
12-20-2015, 08:53 PM
#29
Fan clutch, new fan, t-stat, radiator, coolant expansion tank, water pump, hoses and whatnot.
The ASC could just be disabled as he may have removed the actuator. Airbag codes could be something like the occupancy or seat belt sensor. Brakes - well, could be a simple wear/tear item. But yes, do a scan.
The ASC could just be disabled as he may have removed the actuator. Airbag codes could be something like the occupancy or seat belt sensor. Brakes - well, could be a simple wear/tear item. But yes, do a scan.
12-20-2015, 08:56 PM
#30
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Fan clutch, new fan, t-stat, radiator, coolant expansion tank, water pump, hoses and whatnot.
The ASC could just be disabled as he may have removed the actuator. Airbag codes could be something like the occupancy or seat belt sensor. Brakes - well, could be a simple wear/tear item. But yes, do a scan.
The ASC could just be disabled as he may have removed the actuator. Airbag codes could be something like the occupancy or seat belt sensor. Brakes - well, could be a simple wear/tear item. But yes, do a scan.