I’m changing my water pump and thermostat and wondering if I should use thread locker on the bolts. None of the DIY post I’ve found says one way or the other.
The bolts look like there is residue of blue thread locker.

 

You'll have people say use anti seize, thread locker, or even silicone. I think what's more important is that you use whatever gets a proper torque reading. Which could be nothing at all.

Buuuuuuuut, I would guess new fasteners and blue loctite since that seemed to work just fine.

 

I'd put some removeable locker on there. Last thing you want to have happen is one of them get loose and locker is cheap insurance.

 

no thread locker

 

+996 on new bolts

I used the old bolts and when I changed my WP, I somehow torqued off the head of the last of 7 bolts @ 7.5 ftlbs.

After removing the wp and all the bolts and fortunately the broken one came out easily, I replaced all of them

I was told no thread locker

 

I tack-welded all of the bolt heads once they were torqued correctly. I'm not entirely sure how I'll get a grinder in for some of those harder-to-reach bolts...*shrug*

I try to tack-weld every bolt/nut I remove and replace. It's a real time-saver for some things - for example, tack-welding the retention pin after installing new brake pads is both quick and ensures that the pin will not fall out.

I did come to regret the bead of weld around each lug bolt - while welding the bolts to the wheel ensures they won't come loose, I have to grind off and throw away the wheel each time to remove it, and that's getting expensive.

 

Here's a different angle on the thread-locker question. If there is any chance of corrosion causing future problems, what harm can there be from using green,self-wicking thread locker? That is roughly what Porsche and many other OEMs do with the ME bolts anyway. Just be sure you clean the threads in the block first.
The other option is to use s/s studs instead of bolts if there is clearance. There are several areas of the M96 that can benefit from this - not just w/p. The technique is simple - used blue loctite on the s/s stud that goes into the block.You may need to chase the threads in the block.The bolts supplied seldom use the full depth of the original threaded hole. Use Green for the nut .I usually double nut. Use the largest s/s washer that fits under the nut(s) to distribute the load. Be careful not over torque.
Once you have had to extract a few broken steel bolts and fitted Helicoils/Timserts in difficult locations , you'll appreciate the suggestion ? S/s studs avoids the potential problem. To source the stainless steel studs, just search by the thread size on EBay. You may have to shorten them. Here is an example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-944-...lScdTE&vxp=mtr
Jake has a new book with all the torque data.
To remove any old Loctite residue, use: Loctite 768 X-NMS.Be careful & gentle chasing or wire brushing threads in the block -you do not want to remove metal,just clean it-so use a solvent.

 

wait a minute, you know how to use a wrench or ratchet and a welding machine? I have on good authority you can't find the oil drain plug.

 

I no longer have a drain plug - I weld up the drain hole after each oil change and drill it out again the next time.

 

5CHN3LL definitely knows how to lock a thread...I've seen him do it plenty of times.

 

Do you apply positive air pressure to the crankcase to keep the metal shavings out?

Maybe, but no one does it as well as our missing photobombing watch lover.

 

I used some anti seize on the bolts. They all went in nice and easy except that one PITA which I will not be able to get my torque wrench on.
I also installed a new lower temperature thermostat.
Thanks for all the suggestions; I think.

 

He doesn't lock threads. He welds them.

 

 

You should have cleaned out the holes with a small wire/bristle brush... and used NOTHING on the bolts except a torque wrench...