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OEM Oil Filter Housing and Rant

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Old 11-18-2015 | 08:42 PM
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Default OEM Oil Filter Housing and Rant

Does anyone have documentation that show that the OEM oil filter housing has a bypass valve as part of the assembly.
I brought my car to a shop that claims to have extensive experience on Porsches. I thought that I have an intermix issue, again. I wanted a compression test and a leak down test done. The owner insisted it was the oil cooler and replaced it without testing the old one. They also change the oil and flushed the coolant system.
The owner claims that you can’t do a bench test on the oil cooler. I brought the cooler to another shop and they tested it and said it was working properly. I also had them do a compression and leak down both of which came back normal.
So yesterday I plan to remove the filter to get a sample of oil to send to be tested and when I removed the oil canister the bypass value was missing.
When I called the owner he claims there is no bypass valve. I of course told him that I have seen it many times but he stills insist that it does have one and even sent me a parts diagram that just shows the oil canister. I told him it’s part of the assembly.
I know now that I’ve made a mistake with bring my car to this shop; they didn’t even have a report of the findings of the compression or the leak down test. When I asked for the information he scribbled so number of the invoice.
But It’s look like I have a bigger issue with the intermix since it’s not the oil cooler.
Old 11-18-2015 | 09:13 PM
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Look inside the filter housing and the valve is at the bottom.
Old 11-18-2015 | 09:52 PM
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"When I called the owner he claims there is no bypass valve. I of course told him that I have seen it many times but he stills insist that it does have one and even sent me a parts diagram that just shows the oil canister. I told him it’s part of the assembly."

I agree with you, my parts diagram does not show the cone and spring either.
Old 11-18-2015 | 11:33 PM
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Ericson, the valve is part of the canister so it won't have a seperate part number.

OP, please show your mechanic the oil canister photo in the first row of photos here. Click on it to blow w it up.

http://specialtycarsservicecenter.co...-installation/
Old 11-19-2015 | 12:56 AM
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Btw, my understanding is the most common culprits are AOS and cracked head. Also need to address it soon before the engine oil wastes all the 20 something rubber hoses.
Old 11-19-2015 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Ahsai
Btw, my understanding is the most common culprits are AOS and cracked head. Also need to address it soon before the engine oil wastes all the 20 something rubber hoses.
So my intermix problem could be from a bad AOS?
Is there a definitive test for the AOS?
I had a compression and leak down test and the number looks good according to the shop. The compression were between 165 and 170 dry and the leak down % was 6, 7, 8, 9 and one at 10. Wouldn’t these numbers indicate the cylinder heads are functioning properly?
If I don’t have to replace or rebuild the motor I will thoroughly flush the coolant system and inspect and replace any hoses that my look questionable and do other preventive repairs I.e. ISM bearing and water pump.
If the motor is destine for the trash heap I my sell the car and cut my losses though I would prefer to keep it
Old 11-19-2015 | 01:13 PM
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10% leak down is not what I would call good. It's acceptable but not good. The AOS is a wear item so it should be changed in this case or at least the coolant lines to it bypassed to see if the coolant mixing stops.
Old 11-19-2015 | 02:36 PM
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If I were you, I would try to diagnose if it's the heads first. I've seen this recommended by experts.

Amazon.com: UVIEW 560000 Combustion Leak Tester: Automotive Amazon.com: UVIEW 560000 Combustion Leak Tester: Automotive

It detects exhaust gas in the coolant tank. If positive, you can drain all the coolant and oil, then remove the heads/engine. If not, remove the AOS, pressure test its coolant ports, then install a new one.
Old 11-19-2015 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Ahsai
Btw, my understanding is the most common culprits are AOS and cracked head. Also need to address it soon before the engine oil wastes all the 20 something rubber hoses.
Originally Posted by Ahsai
Ericson, the valve is part of the canister so it won't have a seperate part number.

OP, please show your mechanic the oil canister photo in the first row of photos here. Click on it to blow w it up.

http://specialtycarsservicecenter.co...-installation/
I sent him the link. Thanks for the reply.
Old 11-19-2015 | 06:17 PM
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Find another shop that know what they are doing.
Old 11-19-2015 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Ahsai
If I were you, I would try to diagnose if it's the heads first. I've seen this recommended by experts.

Amazon.com: UVIEW 560000 Combustion Leak Tester: Automotive

It detects exhaust gas in the coolant tank. If positive, you can drain all the coolant and oil, then remove the heads/engine. If not, remove the AOS, pressure test its coolant ports, then install a new one.
Fully flush the entire cooling system asap before disassembly with Dawn dish soap & water.
Old 11-19-2015 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Imo000
Find another shop that know what they are doing.
This was my first and only time for this shop. In fact I'm going to file a complaint with the BBB.
Old 11-20-2015 | 12:34 AM
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The BBB can't do anything. Better off posting the shop's name here than complaining to the BBB.
Old 11-20-2015 | 01:40 AM
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Actually if the shop is a member of BBB, they may be of help
If not, well you are SOL
Old 11-20-2015 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Byprodriver
Fully flush the entire cooling system asap before disassembly with Dawn dish soap & water.
So I drained the coolant system and I’m in the process of refilling with shout and water to flush.
Should I do more than one cycle and I guess that I should flush with clean water after?
Hopefully my oil sample taken after the oil cooler was replaced comes back ok but I’m not hopeful.


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