hi guys ok i'll try to be short the car is an 02 996 c2 mostly for the track. Went for new york inspection and it won't pass catalist monitoring incomplete. The car has some upgrades headers. cat bypass xpipe.extension's on the secondary o2 sensor's,no muffler's, IPD competition plenum with the 82 mm throttle body and the EVO CAI. Already replaced the mass air flow and all 4 o2 sensors. no check engine light but one code of 1109. Passed last year with the same upgrades. No software changes yet maybe thats what it needs. thanks for any input

 

P1109 - Input variables, charge measurement - Above Limit

Not converter related but MAF related.

I note you replaced the MAF. OEM or aftermarket? Regardless, it could be a bum new MAF.

You sure there are no intake air leaks? You didn't accidentally pull a small hose off of say the air injection pump while you were working on installing the IPD plenum or 82mm throttle body?

 

Thanks for your help I did find a loose clamp on my intake so how many drive cycles should it take for the ecm to finish the catalist test right now the durametric tool reads only 1. Thats since i last diconnected the battery.

 

If the error code is a permanent one, permanent in that only the DME can "clear" it after so many warm up cycles with the error *not* present, I don't know how many drive cycles or warm up cycles is required.

You have to drive the car enough, and the *right* way, to give the DME the conditions it needs to run through all the readiness tests and barring any errors set these to complete.

By the "right" way short trips, or trips in which one hammers on the engine, are the wrong way but I have no official drive cycle info.

There is one on the web somewhere but it seems way too detailed and complex. But some have "used" it with success.

I have cleared a check engine light in both of my cars and then just driven to work and the readiness monitors are all set to complete. My work commute is 30 miles of mixed driving with some surface street driving followed by some freeway driving, ending with some more surface street driving.

While I don't baby the car during this drive I don't hot rod it either. Traffic and LEO put the lid on any hot rodding.

 

I will try cleaning the new MAF with the right cleaner maybe too much oil on the filter. Is there any way of telling if the reading for the MAF on the durametric tool are good.

 

That sounds like to me that only one correct drive cycle should do it. I think that i have experienced that in the past with this car.

 

Didn't know you had an oiled filter installed. If you over oil this -- and it is easy to do -- the excess oil can foul the MAF. Cleaning is called for. There are "MAF" or other cleaners in an aerosol can that are residue free you should use.

There have been posts by others who claim to know what the MAF should read at idle to be classified as good. I don't recall the numbers.

Based on you reporting a loose hose clamp and possibly an "oiled" MAF, the odds are the MAF is ok, though of course probably in need of a cleaning.

I'd clean the filter then properly oil it -- or revert back to the stock filter setup -- and clean the MAF and road test the car. If the MAF is bad you'l know it soon enough.

 

thanks for your help got it fixed must be lose clamp and not fulfilling the drive cycle. off to the inspection station thanks Start engine, idle cold for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.

Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.

Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.

Decelerate and come to a stop. Idle in gear* for approx 5 mins.

*I don't think you actually have to idle in gear unless you have a Tiptronic...I idled mine in neutral.

It is absolutely essential to keep the RPM's below 3,000 and the MPH below 60 for the duration of this test.

In California, the referee thing seems to be the easiest and most expedient way to go...Unfortunately we don't have that option where I live.

 

Do you have tailpipe sniff test over there or just OBD?

When you passed last year, did the ECU have a chance to adapt to all your mods for awhile yet?

Also did you inspect your O2 extenders for carbon buildup or soot? They could be clogged thus affecting your readings.

 

Yeah, how exactly do you pass emissions with no cats? I thought only Volkswagens had that feature.

 

Passed the inspection no sniffer for the newer cars just plug it in to the shops test computer and as long as you have one complete drive cycle where all the tests run and pass your good. Don't let them look under the car that won't be good.

 

See the tiny holes in the extender bung. If those are clogged, it's going to throw off your reading from your sensors. I would check to make sure you don't have carbon buildup blocking those holes in any way.

That fact that you have all those mods running on stock ECU would most likely lead to a rich running condition and additional carbon buildup over time which is typical behaviour for this ECU running mods.

 

If your bung is clogged, Buttman and Robin can probably open that right up...

 

My bet is the missing converters are the issue here.

 

Wasn't clear to me the OP had removed the converters but if he did then yeah, hell yeah, that's the issue.