5CHN3LL

My point (if I had one?) was that nailing down the existing problems is probably more pressing than exploratory surgery on the sump. OP sounds level-headed, but there have been more than a few people roll through here, freak out, and start burning money.

OverTake

I changed out my coolant tank yesterday evening. I'm not so certain that it has a crack in it, but it probably needed to be replaced anyways. I was worried that I might damage some of the hoses while pulling the old tank out. I did bust a clip on the electrical connect that plugs into the coolant level sensor. The new tank went in pretty easily.

The reason I don't think the tank had a crack in it is because it still had pressure in the system when I took the cap off, and the coolant was just below the minimum level. I think I simply had excess coolant in the system and it was coming out of the overflow hose. I never opened the pressure relief valve when I added coolant.

I still have to put coolant back in the car. The guy I bought it from had flushed the coolant and replaced it with green Prestone coolant when he purchased the vehicle. My mechanic said that that's not the type of coolant I want to use. Can't remember what the reasoning was....

Should I flush the green out, or can I just add back another coolant that will likely be compatible with whatever green is left in the system? I know Porsche coolant doesn't mix with other coolants.

OverTake

I added back the 3 or so gallons of coolant that I emptied out of the car. I lifted the pressure relief clip and turned on the vehicle. A light at the end of temperature gauge started to blink, so I turned the car off.

Do I need to get one of those vacuum deals to get whatever air might be in the system?

5CHN3LL

There are several threads for bleeding the system using an inclined surface (driveway) if you don't want to wait around for the AirLift to show up...

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-question.html

OverTake

The manual bleed seemed to work. At first, when the oil cap was off and the dip stick was out and the coolant cap was off, it started to rough idle a little. I turned the car off and put everything back on. When I turned the car back on the coolant light was off. Car was on an incline at base of my driveway.

I drove it around with the bleeder valve open, and it's still open. Took it to another car place to see if they could pick up a code. The code is p1123. I asked him to erase the code, because I feel like maybe it went on because I didn't have the gas cap tightened all the way. I'm going to keep driving it to see if the CEL comes back on.

5CHN3LL

P1123 is over-rich on cylinders 1-3. I don't think the gas cap should cause this issue, but driving more to see if it comes back shouldn't be a problem.

Make sure all of the lines to the SAI (smog) pump are properly connected...

OverTake

Hey 5CHN3LL. I saw a thread where you replaced the maf sensor. Quick question. Are these two parts the only ones that I have to spray with the contact cleaner? Not sure if I can open this up some more or not. Maybe you didn't try cleaning it first, but if you know the answer I'd appreciate your insight.

30k miles, the air filter looked like total ****, so glad to have replaced it.

Sneaky Pete

You need to clean the part that goes into the airbox too.

5CHN3LL

As Pete said, you need to remove the MAF from the intake - there are two security Torx screws holding it in - in order to try to clean the sensor element. Your photos show the connector for the MAF, not the MAF itself.

OverTake

No kidding... Glad I asked. I did undo the torque screws, but I thought it was to release the connector.

Thanks.

OverTake

Wait a second. What I'm holding in my hand is what was in the air box and is the same thing that pete posted a photo of.

OverTake

Figured it out. I was spraying the wrong end of the maf, the side that plugs in to the connector.

Thanks guys.

5CHN3LL

Heh - yeah, I realized that when I reviewed your images just now. Right gadget, wrong end.