I don't have a "go to" torque wrench.

At least I don't have a cabriolet with a tip.

 

Thanks Ahsai - I was looking at the CDIs actually.
Also, I applied your compressed air coolant emptying technique to great effect. Pretty sure there's nothing left in there now especially with the coolant tank out. Now to get the new one in!
BTW, I did find that removing the hard line (black plastic pipe) under the car helped a great deal when removing the water pump. If I had to do it again it would be far quicker.

 

The Porsche-specific issue that eliminates many of the 3/8 T wrenches is that they are too big to use in the confined space. Further, you can't fit your head and the wrench in the space available to watch a digital readout,little colored LED lights or a dial. So you need a beep+vibrate wrench.
CDI make the Snap On Techwrenches/Techangle .They may give a better warranty than S.O.?
The CDI 1002TAA is around $450.
BTW -test your HF T wrench using an old bolt in a vise .Set it to the torque you used and try to bust the bolt. In your case, you were lucky you did not strip the threads in the block !
I wonder if you put the bolts back in the wrong location? Some are longer than others and have correspondingly deeper holes ??

 

I was very careful about the location. When I removed two longer bolts from the old water pump, I marked the corresponding holes on the new water pump with a sharpie so that I could tell. Wish I'd applied the same common sense to over tightening.

 

Did you realize that 2 of the bolts are longer than the other 5 and must go back in the correct order. Anyway, why would you need a torque wrench for 7 ft lbs? It's not much tighter than finger tight. You must have felt the pressure needed when you removed them in the first place. Provided it was the original pump. All mine moved easily under a small wrench and finger pressure as I could not get my hand on the small wrench, only fingers. I guestimated my tightening pressure and its been ok for the past 12 months when I replaced the pump. Good luck with removing that broken bolt. I doubt it in the space available unless it's the lowest bolt. The engine may have to be dropped IF you must remove it. I hope it is one of the lower bolts and maybe you could get to it easier for extraction with the correct tools needed. That's a bummer for sure. I do not envy your job

 

You're right - I should have realized that 7ft lbs was not very tight. When I removed the bolts form the old pump, they felt much tighter than finger tight. In general, I would rather use a torque wrench and get a consistent torque on all the bolts. Unfortunately it is the very top bolt. I can't see getting it out without dropping the engine.

 

I wonder if you can get a clear shot at that bolt for extraction if you remove the rear bumper, the cats and the engine brace. Still beats dropping the engine.

 

Looks doable.

 

+1

If this is a mostly regular gasket all the bolts really need to do is hold it tight with enough pressure to make a seal, nothing more.

 

Naw, just get used to wrenching and you should be able to get them close enough without going over. No torque wrench required.

IMO but what do I know, other than $5 contact cement didn't work for the rear window seam that was coming apart.

 

Two of the holes on the water pump have metal sleeves/inserts. Those the holes that fit the longer bolts. Very easy to remember

 

you could be in good shape if the bolt did not bottom out. i would remove the pump and get the smallest needle nose vice grips [it may come out with pliers] and grab on to the bolt part that is sticking out.if it comes out the most you may need is a new gasket. drilling the bolt and using an ez out is very difficult for small bolts.

 

If you have to drill this guy might be helpful (ask me know I know...):


I just did my WP and while I don't think that drill won't fit with the engine brace on, it might if you remove it.

Oh, and don't forget a good set of reverse drill bits. I bought the Irwin set on Amazon as well and they've held up pretty well.

If you have more than 1/4" of stud remaining you could try a stud puller. The local Autozone should have one for ~$20.

Good luck!

 

Thanks everyone. Super helpful advice!

 

Every time I see this thread, I think it's a euphemism for...something else.