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Crankshaft bolt removal

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Old 03-23-2015 | 12:40 PM
  #16  
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if removal is your only concern use an impact gun and no more HBO drama.
Old 03-23-2015 | 12:51 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Flat6 Innovations
The factory doesn't disassemble engines. It takes a lot more breakaway torque to loosen the bolt than it does to install it.

If the boss breaks, it typically takes a chunk of the block with it. The boss is for cam timing, TDC lock only. Lots of people have gotten by with using it for disassembly, but its like Russian Roulette.
LOL, very true. I can also see the boss breaking since it's only cast.
I guess I got lucky or rather I didn't get unlucky.

Originally Posted by extanker
if removal is your only concern use an impact gun and no more HBO drama.
This is what I would've normally done but IIRC, the space was sort of tight with the engine in. My Ingersoll Rand though has gotten me out of LOTS of binds in the past.
Old 03-23-2015 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by extanker
if removal is your only concern use an impact gun and no more HBO drama.
The heads are already off, the rotating assembly spins really easily. If I just hit it with an airgun, it will want to spin.

Thanks everyone for their imput. I'll make something to solidly lock the crank.
Old 03-23-2015 | 02:34 PM
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How about a strap wrench on the pulley, something like a plumber or pipe fitter would use?
Old 03-23-2015 | 03:01 PM
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I have used a large strap wrench to keep the crank pulley from moving when trying to crack the crank bolt - since I ground the boss down for the underdrive pulley, I didn't want to rely solely on the remains of the ground-down boss to keep things from moving.

What other way is there to unloosen a bolt?
At least one forum member who shall remain nameless has suggested that WD-40 may help.
Old 03-23-2015 | 05:39 PM
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This guy can fab! How he cut out the circular disc from the stock plate?

http://www.986fix.com/photos.php?vie...category=11&q=

Also lots of nice photos on engine rebuild. You will see the diy flywheel lock tool as well and it's aluminum. I'm sure steel would be even stronger but probably a lot more difficult to fab.
Old 03-23-2015 | 09:10 PM
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Thanks for all the suggestions. The crank locking bar on the flywheel side gave me an idea. I can't post pictures here anymore but anyone interested in the symplest and maybe safest way to do this can see it on here: http://reutterwerk.com/forums/showth...425#post375425
Old 03-23-2015 | 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 9964runner
How about a strap wrench on the pulley, something like a plumber or pipe fitter would use?
Or a block of wood if there is a place to jam one in. Won't dent or scratch anything and is cheap.



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