Crankshaft bolt removal
#17
The factory doesn't disassemble engines. It takes a lot more breakaway torque to loosen the bolt than it does to install it.
If the boss breaks, it typically takes a chunk of the block with it. The boss is for cam timing, TDC lock only. Lots of people have gotten by with using it for disassembly, but its like Russian Roulette.
If the boss breaks, it typically takes a chunk of the block with it. The boss is for cam timing, TDC lock only. Lots of people have gotten by with using it for disassembly, but its like Russian Roulette.
I guess I got lucky or rather I didn't get unlucky.
This is what I would've normally done but IIRC, the space was sort of tight with the engine in. My Ingersoll Rand though has gotten me out of LOTS of binds in the past.
#18
Thread Starter
Captain Obvious
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 22,846
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From: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Thanks everyone for their imput. I'll make something to solidly lock the crank.
#20
I have used a large strap wrench to keep the crank pulley from moving when trying to crack the crank bolt - since I ground the boss down for the underdrive pulley, I didn't want to rely solely on the remains of the ground-down boss to keep things from moving.
At least one forum member who shall remain nameless has suggested that WD-40 may help.
What other way is there to unloosen a bolt?
#21
This guy can fab! How he cut out the circular disc from the stock plate?
http://www.986fix.com/photos.php?vie...category=11&q=
Also lots of nice photos on engine rebuild. You will see the diy flywheel lock tool as well and it's aluminum. I'm sure steel would be even stronger but probably a lot more difficult to fab.
http://www.986fix.com/photos.php?vie...category=11&q=
Also lots of nice photos on engine rebuild. You will see the diy flywheel lock tool as well and it's aluminum. I'm sure steel would be even stronger but probably a lot more difficult to fab.
#22
Thread Starter
Captain Obvious
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 22,846
Likes: 340
From: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Thanks for all the suggestions. The crank locking bar on the flywheel side gave me an idea. I can't post pictures here anymore but anyone interested in the symplest and maybe safest way to do this can see it on here: http://reutterwerk.com/forums/showth...425#post375425
#23