Newbie seeking advice on old topic
#1
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I have owned two boxsters over the past 10 years but have always wanted a 911.
Just purchased a 2000 996 cabriolet with 40k miles for $17k-cannot believe you can buy so much car for this price....but...
Had PPI done at Family Porsche in Bakersfield. They noted that the the rear main seal and IMS are leaking oil. I have driven the car maybe 800 miles since and no spots in garage indicating a leak. where's the leaking oil going?
I am looking into doing full IMS replacement with rear seal but am asking for advice:
Do I just purchase replacement parts from Pelican and do clutch in process?
( current clutch is fine but as long as we are in there-might as well)
or do I spend the $ 700 for full LNE Sealed IMS?
I'm just trying to do the right thing here as the car is beautiful with no problems and I would like to keep for a long time.
Thank you for any advice you can offer on this tired subject from a normally not paranoid guy!
Just purchased a 2000 996 cabriolet with 40k miles for $17k-cannot believe you can buy so much car for this price....but...
Had PPI done at Family Porsche in Bakersfield. They noted that the the rear main seal and IMS are leaking oil. I have driven the car maybe 800 miles since and no spots in garage indicating a leak. where's the leaking oil going?
I am looking into doing full IMS replacement with rear seal but am asking for advice:
Do I just purchase replacement parts from Pelican and do clutch in process?
( current clutch is fine but as long as we are in there-might as well)
or do I spend the $ 700 for full LNE Sealed IMS?
I'm just trying to do the right thing here as the car is beautiful with no problems and I would like to keep for a long time.
Thank you for any advice you can offer on this tired subject from a normally not paranoid guy!
#2
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Lne. If your current is a single row then get the ims pro which is a dual row that fits in a single row config. But you have to find a specialist that has the proper tool to install and i am not sure there are many out there. Regardless...get the ln bearing...
#3
Burning Brakes
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(I borrowed this pic from another thread.)
#4
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This, as soon as reasonably possible, followed by Motul or Joe Gibbs oil every 5,000 miles. You may wish to hold off on the clutch until a second LNE bearing way down the line. Not sure 40,000 miles invites clutch service even with the car apart.
#5
Race Director
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My experience with two cars and two RMS leaks is mixed. The Boxster RMS leak seeped oil with just a hint of an oil leak at where the engine and transmission bellhousing joined. Only once when I left the car parked for over a week with no use did a spot of oil appear under the car.
OTOh, Turbo RMS leak was a more active leak. The Turbo the oil leak was bad enough the underneath of the engine was wet with oil and the were spots of oil showing up under the car.
OTOh, Turbo RMS leak was a more active leak. The Turbo the oil leak was bad enough the underneath of the engine was wet with oil and the were spots of oil showing up under the car.
Last edited by Macster; 01-31-2015 at 01:08 PM.
#7
Drifting
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Single row Pro is 1-1/2 row .Just a geekish thing.The "2" rows are staggered.So fewer ***** than the normal double row. But wonderful anyway.
http://imsretrofit.com/gen-2-single-row-ims-retrofit/
http://www.google.com/patents/US4055371
If you do the clutch do not overlook the DMF test. It is also a good test question for a candidate Indie.If they say -"oh they never wear out" ...move on
Let us know what you decide?
http://imsretrofit.com/gen-2-single-row-ims-retrofit/
http://www.google.com/patents/US4055371
Last edited by Schnell Gelb; 01-30-2015 at 09:31 PM.
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#8
Race Director
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The RMS/IMS leak won't necessarily result in a dirty garage floor - just a messy engine.
Are you going to do the work yourself? If not, why isn't the indie taking care of the part acquisition? If the shop is competent, you should be able to specify what you want and let them deal with it. If your indie doesn't stock retrofit bearings for single and dual-row motors, IMO they don't do enough retrofits and you should find another that does. (All opinion, mostly biased, all unsubstantiated.)
My '99 started to slip at about 55K miles - that's when I bit the bullet and had the bearing and clutch serviced. If you're worried about the bearing, you might as well do the clutch. Maybe it has 15,000 miles left, maybe it has 1,500 - but the labor is the bear for both procedures, so to me it's reasonable to replace the clutch if you're doing the bearing as PM.
Are you going to do the work yourself? If not, why isn't the indie taking care of the part acquisition? If the shop is competent, you should be able to specify what you want and let them deal with it. If your indie doesn't stock retrofit bearings for single and dual-row motors, IMO they don't do enough retrofits and you should find another that does. (All opinion, mostly biased, all unsubstantiated.)
My '99 started to slip at about 55K miles - that's when I bit the bullet and had the bearing and clutch serviced. If you're worried about the bearing, you might as well do the clutch. Maybe it has 15,000 miles left, maybe it has 1,500 - but the labor is the bear for both procedures, so to me it's reasonable to replace the clutch if you're doing the bearing as PM.
#9
#11
Drifting
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He is correct.I have the same year/same issue.
Do not rely on a quick visual of the IMS flange unless you are an expert. It may have a retrofit.
Remove the flange and verify.
Do not rely on a quick visual of the IMS flange unless you are an expert. It may have a retrofit.
Remove the flange and verify.
Last edited by Schnell Gelb; 01-30-2015 at 09:32 PM.
#14
Drifting
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Suggest you contact fellow Rennlister BYPRODRIVER .He is in Costa Mesa and knows everyone in the local Porsche world. Nice guy with a good rep on Rennlist too.
Last edited by Schnell Gelb; 01-30-2015 at 09:32 PM.