Suggested preventstive maintenance?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I've done a lot of preventative service to my 04 4s cab - 40k miles weekend car parked for winter.
Am I missing something?
Work done:
Oil
Coolant and brake fluid flush
Spark plugs
Serpentine belt
Air and carbon filter
How about?
Dif fluid
Trans oil - manual
Power steering fluid
Any value to replace brake shoes without rotors?
I'm not looking or spend money where it's not needed, but want to avoid bigger problems.
Am I missing something?
Work done:
Oil
Coolant and brake fluid flush
Spark plugs
Serpentine belt
Air and carbon filter
How about?
Dif fluid
Trans oil - manual
Power steering fluid
Any value to replace brake shoes without rotors?
I'm not looking or spend money where it's not needed, but want to avoid bigger problems.
#2
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
A quick visual for starters, then you can measure to check if they are within spec.
For no cost maintenance I'd suggest removing the front bumper and cleaning the rads/condensers.
Other responses you may get will range from; just drive it, to, drop engine and replace all moving parts!! along with replace all three letter acronyms.
For no cost maintenance I'd suggest removing the front bumper and cleaning the rads/condensers.
Other responses you may get will range from; just drive it, to, drop engine and replace all moving parts!! along with replace all three letter acronyms.
#4
Race Director
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I've done a lot of preventative service to my 04 4s cab - 40k miles weekend car parked for winter.
Am I missing something?
Work done:
Oil
Coolant and brake fluid flush
Spark plugs
Serpentine belt
Air and carbon filter
How about?
Dif fluid
Trans oil - manual
Power steering fluid
Any value to replace brake shoes without rotors?
I'm not looking or spend money where it's not needed, but want to avoid bigger problems.
Am I missing something?
Work done:
Oil
Coolant and brake fluid flush
Spark plugs
Serpentine belt
Air and carbon filter
How about?
Dif fluid
Trans oil - manual
Power steering fluid
Any value to replace brake shoes without rotors?
I'm not looking or spend money where it's not needed, but want to avoid bigger problems.
I have not had the power steering fluid changed. I have talked to the Porsche techs about this and they report no problems arising from this fluid "wearing out" or from anything that could be prevented by fluid changes. The most common power steering failure mode is a high pressure relief valve fails and routes excessive pressure to the steering rack which forces fluid out the past the seals. This fluid is captured by the rack dust boots and by the time the car is brought in with noises arising from power steering pump being low on fluid the damage is done: A new rack, a new power steering pump, and the line/high pressure relief valve all need to be replaced.
The techs point out there is no provision for draining the power steering fluid. To replace it one would have to disconnect the power steering return line and the serpentine belt and hand spin the pump in the right direction to pump fluid out of the reservoir and through the rest of the system and out into a catch pan. Fresh fluid would have to be added to avoid any air being introduced into the power steering system.
The above still leaves or potentially leaves a considerable amount of old fluid in the rack. But this is probably of no real concern as I pointed out it doesn't appear fluid that has been in service for years presents any problem.
(My 02 Boxster is on its original fluid and car turned 13 years old on the 19th of this month (well, that's when I bought it the car was built in late 2001) and have covered over 288K miles. The power steering system is just fine, thank you. So's the power steering system in the 03 Turbo with 131K miles on its original fluid.)
Whenever the car is serviced I have the car inspected for any leak sign. This is where often a DIY're falls down on the job. He thinks changing the oil/filter is all that a "service" requires but he should use this opportunity to carefully inspect the car from underneath checking for any signs of a fluid leak, from the water pump, hoses/connections/fittings, radiators and their hoses/fittings, CV boots, transmission/diff seals, brake lines, A/C lines, fuel lines and the power steering lines/connection all the way up to the rack where the tech checks the dust boots.
The techs also give the vital fluid levels a check, too. If the power steering fluid level is low and there is no obvious sign of a fluid leak then the rack dust boots should be checked (groped) for any signs of fluid build up in them. Power steering fluid doesn't evaporate.
#5
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The rotors may become too thin before the new set of brake pads wears out.
Good suggestion above on removing bumper cover and cleaning radiators!
It might be a good time to feed the leather seats, etc.
#6
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I bought a low miles C2 Cab, thanks to the rennlisters advice, I changed tires, all fluids, transmission fluid as well, and I did the 2 years maintenance which is pretty much what you did.
Mine, is a weekend car, but in 6 months, I put 4000 miles, my car doesn't stay 2 weeks without been driven.
Sent from my iPhone using Rennlist
Mine, is a weekend car, but in 6 months, I put 4000 miles, my car doesn't stay 2 weeks without been driven.
Sent from my iPhone using Rennlist
Trending Topics
#8
Drifting
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Ephrata, PA, USA now. Originally from the UK
Posts: 3,075
Likes: 0
Received 20 Likes
on
15 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
To remove the front for radiator/condensor cleaning follow this link
A change of engine mounts might be in order as well. A very easy DIY job. BTW they will tell you the thickness of your rotors when you have the annual inspection done on the car. The thickness limits are different from front and rear. Have fun.
A change of engine mounts might be in order as well. A very easy DIY job. BTW they will tell you the thickness of your rotors when you have the annual inspection done on the car. The thickness limits are different from front and rear. Have fun.