tdrimer

Popcorn?

DTMiller

Nah, I mean, obviously if you do something and then an event happens later the thing you did before caused the event that happens later. It's just basic logic. Why would you argue with something as airtight as that? That's why the 996 owners manual says to spray WD-40 on your key, to keep your IMS from blowing up.

Evidence: I know of at least one owner who sprays WD-40 on his key and his IMS is intact. Cause. Effect. It's science.

finbarr

By astonishing coincidence, this has just happened to me - I've just driven to work and parked outside and the key is refusing to come out of the ignition switch. Anyone got any tips on how to persuade it out in advance of doing the full swap?

particlewave

Wow. Fun stuff, with the insults and all.

I think what we have here is a simple misunderstanding between DT and Hurdi. As I'm sure everyone knows, the ignition switch consists of a lock and an electrical switch. The two components are attached, but separate devices.

An electrical issue related to the electrical portion of the ignition switch would probably cause electrical symptoms. In that scenario, the electrical portion of the ignition switch should definitely be replaced.

A stuck key could be a mechanical issue within the lock itself, with all of its tiny moving bits and tumblers. Hence, WD-40 or other lubricant could be a valid solution for a stuck key. Graphite would be best for long term lubrication.
That said, the electrical portions of these ignition switches are notorious for failing and definitely suspect.

Group hug, everybody

particlewave

To you and the OP: have you tried turning the steering wheel a little bit? Though I've never had trouble getting my key out, I have had trouble getting it to turn because of the steering wheel lock.

Just a WAG...

finbarr

Thanks, I did have a quick go but I'll persevere - although the key seemed to have turned just as far as it usually does. I also have some silicone spray that might help release anything that's sticking.

Wickedgood911

That seemed to help a bit, however turning the key to the leftmost position and moving the steering wheel was the only way to get the key out.

Being stubborn and stupid at the same time, I went for a ride yesterday and noticed that the HVAC wasn't working, controls illuminated but no airflow. It's definitely dying, I'll have the switch today and get it done. I removed the HVAC duct yesterday and realized how tight the space is under the dash. With a giant head, it'll be a tight fit to get my melon under there.

DTMiller

It theoretically could be that. And it seems like it has to be something mechanical, but 99.99999% of the time in these exact circumstances it is not the lock itself, it is the electrical portion. Don't take my word for it, google 996 (or 986) key stuck in ignition and in almost every message board forum there is someone saying "you won't believe it, but it is the electrical component that is the culprit." Mine wouldn't come out at all, my lights stopped working. All kind of weird **** happens and then you swap out the part and everything is perfect. That's based not only on my personal experience but on the personal experience of literally hundreds of people all over the internet in 986/996 forums.

rmc1148

With the giant head comes a giant brain you'll be ok= the comments are hilarious!

finbarr

Ok, I tried again to get the key out, wiggling the wheel as well but it's as stuck as that time Sticky the stick insect got stuck on a stick.

Having said I thought it went as far to the left as it normally does, I'm now not so sure. How far *should* it turn between ignition on and key out?

FRUNKenstein

DTMiller is correct. It may SEEM like a tumbler issue, but it is the electrical portion of the ignition switch. WD40 ain't gonna fix it. I would have bet $1,000 that my tumblers were screwed up. I started looking around at how to get the tumblers replaced the most cost effective way. All that crunching and binding - no way it was the electrical portion of the switch. And yes, I did spray some WD40 down in there in an attempt to fix it before I replaced the electrical portion of the switch.

Repeat after me: Replace the $12 switch - Replace the $12 switch - Replace the $12 switch.

finbarr

Panic over...

Started it up and shifted it out of Park (it's a Tiptronic) and noticed that the button on the shift lever pressed down very easily. Turns out I can't have pushed the lever quite far enough forward when I parked up this morning and it locked the key in place as a result. Got back to the garage, put it back in P, turned off the engine and took the key out as normal.

<looks for "embarrassed" icon>

<fails>

Wickedgood911

Update:
Was able to scrape off the red thread lock applied to the two set screws and then I made an improvised 90 degree screw driver, using a thin blade from a magnetic socket-set attached to a small vice grip plier. If your hands are like my bear paws it's a mother to get them in there along with the driver. TAKE YOUR TIME and use a flashlight
To guide the driver into the sets screws. They backed off pretty easy. That's was the hard part, except for getting your head out between the clutch, left foot rest and lower dash panel.

If you are claustrophobic, pre-medicate before you go inside, otherwise it's a bit creepy being jammed in there.

Onward and upward!!

DTMiller

Ye olde PEBSWAS fault code. (problem exists between steering wheel and seat)

5CHN3LL

I think each understood the other quite well.

However, I applaud your efforts to make the 996 forum a kinder, gentler place.

Kumbaya, my lord...Kumbaya...