996 carrera new owner
10-07-2014, 06:18 PM
#46
Obviously you have problems in bank 2 only so that points to timing and intake runner air leak on bank 2. Since the engine has been disassembled, are you sure bank 2 timing is correct and any compression/leak down test done after assembly? Maybe you can check the bank 2 cams for alignment to start? Fuel trims on both banks may reveal more.
Don't know what P1585 empty fuel tank is but I assume the fuel tank was not empty?
Don't know what P1585 empty fuel tank is but I assume the fuel tank was not empty?
10-07-2014, 06:20 PM
#47
well the damage to reluctor is very unlikely cause the car worked for the days, (driving, cold starts, warm starts etc)
then it all was gone, by now I am thinking of buying the most expensive cam sensor precisely corresponding to the part nr and made by bosch
the first one was some automega, the cheapest but at least the car worked and started normally right after installation
the second one after the cheap one died was Facet/EPS, car never worked normally
checking the original sensor with the Facet/EPS one using multimeter, the resistance on both was the same. (apparently maybe a defective sensor? )
the situation is kinda weird, I am not against buying the best (yeah ok wanted to save a few bucks, but usually new parts work, for at least a while...) but in this situation I am not entirely sure the cam sensor is the one to blame, it looks as though it might be.
then it all was gone, by now I am thinking of buying the most expensive cam sensor precisely corresponding to the part nr and made by bosch
the first one was some automega, the cheapest but at least the car worked and started normally right after installation
the second one after the cheap one died was Facet/EPS, car never worked normally
checking the original sensor with the Facet/EPS one using multimeter, the resistance on both was the same. (apparently maybe a defective sensor? )
the situation is kinda weird, I am not against buying the best (yeah ok wanted to save a few bucks, but usually new parts work, for at least a while...) but in this situation I am not entirely sure the cam sensor is the one to blame, it looks as though it might be.
10-07-2014, 06:27 PM
#49
Racer
Thread Starter
well the timing shift is also very unlikely, because the car ran like **** when i first started it (with the oem sensor - possibly dead one) then I bought the cheap cam sensor - swapped it, car ran perfectly right away
then 3 days off normal running and after a short stop (20 minutes) the misfiring came back, the car never worked normally ever since...
rather strange, if it didn't work right after the first start, then I would assume the timing issues, but yeah, very unlikely I believe.
then 3 days off normal running and after a short stop (20 minutes) the misfiring came back, the car never worked normally ever since...
rather strange, if it didn't work right after the first start, then I would assume the timing issues, but yeah, very unlikely I believe.
10-07-2014, 06:28 PM
#50
Racer
Thread Starter
10-07-2014, 06:45 PM
#51
Anyway you can get find someone with a durametric? Being able to measure the cam deviations can definitely confirm if there is something up with the cam timing/alignment.
10-08-2014, 05:48 PM
#52
Racer
Thread Starter
so there is an interesting update, pulled out the DME it was all fine etc
then I reinstalled the more expensive cam sensor on bank 2 (4;5;6) and the car runs like **** again
but I tried to disconnect the cam sensor on the bank 1 (1;2;3) and the car runs perfectly (haven't driven it yet) only the engine has an error on hall effect sensor 1, since it is such a pain in the *** (and much worse) to replace it, my question is: how bad is it to drive it around with only one sensor?
emissions, less mpg?
at idle the car runs like champ, very very weird.
then I reinstalled the more expensive cam sensor on bank 2 (4;5;6) and the car runs like **** again
but I tried to disconnect the cam sensor on the bank 1 (1;2;3) and the car runs perfectly (haven't driven it yet) only the engine has an error on hall effect sensor 1, since it is such a pain in the *** (and much worse) to replace it, my question is: how bad is it to drive it around with only one sensor?
emissions, less mpg?
at idle the car runs like champ, very very weird.
10-08-2014, 05:49 PM
#53
Racer
Thread Starter
and gladly I confirmed that there are no mechanical problems and timing issues
it is a rather interesting fact that the sensor seems to be dead or halfway dead on the side that works perfectly and gives no trouble at all, like wtf? some porsche weirdness?
it is a rather interesting fact that the sensor seems to be dead or halfway dead on the side that works perfectly and gives no trouble at all, like wtf? some porsche weirdness?
10-08-2014, 07:32 PM
#54
That is indeed weird. It's as if the engine will only run well with only one sensor but not both. I suppose you can just keep the cam 1 sensor unplug and test drive the car and see how the engine reacts and what other codes you may get.
10-08-2014, 08:28 PM
#55
Racer
Thread Starter
well I just went through all the nightmare of replacing the sensor, but had forgotten to turn off the ignition and the battery is dry, so the morning will give me some answers, now both ar new installed, the more expensive one one the bank 1 that is harder to get to, the cheap one on bank 2, so if it fails, it will be easier to swap it.
10-09-2014, 03:10 AM
#57
Racer
Thread Starter
well with both sensors connected the car starts, somehow bit worse then with one sensor but starts, and it gives the same error none the less, Hall effect sensor 1
so now I disconnected and left with one sensor on bank 2, if I leave the bank 1 sensor connected only, the car stalls and backfires, very weird
my only guess is that in some point in cars life the engine was replaced with a newer one wioth 2 sensors and corresponding engine harness and the ecu remained the one from a single sensor motor, the car is 1998 and the engine might have been replaced in 2001 as a warranty case
only explanation for now, (I don't remember the precise Bosch part number but I believe the last 3 digits were 605 on the ECU, but the computer is the single long three row, 88 pin plug, not the 5 plug unit as the newer ones)
so now I disconnected and left with one sensor on bank 2, if I leave the bank 1 sensor connected only, the car stalls and backfires, very weird
my only guess is that in some point in cars life the engine was replaced with a newer one wioth 2 sensors and corresponding engine harness and the ecu remained the one from a single sensor motor, the car is 1998 and the engine might have been replaced in 2001 as a warranty case
only explanation for now, (I don't remember the precise Bosch part number but I believe the last 3 digits were 605 on the ECU, but the computer is the single long three row, 88 pin plug, not the 5 plug unit as the newer ones)
Last edited by riddler777; 10-09-2014 at 03:32 AM.
10-12-2014, 07:50 AM
#60
Racer
Thread Starter
so antoher update on the 996,
the chinese sensor gave up after a long city run and I replaced it with one of the old bosch oem sensors the car runs perfect
however I have noticed another issue, concerning the alternator/generator, my batterry and abs lights come up on dash, the alternator was tested and seemed to be ok, the (charcoals or how they are called on the relay) had plenty of meat left still, and I precautionally replaced the serpentine belt to a new and fresh contitech one, although the old one was still ok, without cracks etc, however after a very rainy night the car squeaked like hell on cold start, as the pulleys also were very good condion ones, those were not to blame.
but I saw that there are no rubber seals on the engine/trunk lid, are there supposed to be some? also the alternator had drops of rainwater on it, and somehow I don't like this, the abs/battery lights also go away completely when the car is really really warm. the battery itself might need a replacement as well, but still pretty weird, maybe someone has had a similar issue?
the chinese sensor gave up after a long city run and I replaced it with one of the old bosch oem sensors the car runs perfect
however I have noticed another issue, concerning the alternator/generator, my batterry and abs lights come up on dash, the alternator was tested and seemed to be ok, the (charcoals or how they are called on the relay) had plenty of meat left still, and I precautionally replaced the serpentine belt to a new and fresh contitech one, although the old one was still ok, without cracks etc, however after a very rainy night the car squeaked like hell on cold start, as the pulleys also were very good condion ones, those were not to blame.
but I saw that there are no rubber seals on the engine/trunk lid, are there supposed to be some? also the alternator had drops of rainwater on it, and somehow I don't like this, the abs/battery lights also go away completely when the car is really really warm. the battery itself might need a replacement as well, but still pretty weird, maybe someone has had a similar issue?