Ignition switch replacement
06-20-2014, 07:17 PM
#16
Well, I thought I put it nicely. Just goes to show what you can learn by reading the forum and learning from others. I think I paid $28.00 for the Audi switch. Guess my 996 is going to self destruct because I didnt waste $600. Maybe Im just stupid?
Last edited by KrazyK; 06-20-2014 at 09:57 PM.
06-21-2014, 12:55 PM
#17
Racer
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It was a lot of money to spend but the difference in the way the car runs is quite surprising. Still not sure it's not just my imagination but here we are about a week later and it's still running better than ever!
06-21-2014, 01:08 PM
#18
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So, bottom line.......electrical part can be obtained for prices from around $12 to around $32 and from Porsche for around $220......and all are apparently exactly the same.
Makes you wonder doesn't it!
On a similar note, I'm restoring a '68 Jaguar XKE that I've owned for about 18 years. Over those years I've learned a lot about using aftermarket vs genuine Jaguar parts. And the biggest lesson is, generally not always, you get what you pay for and buyer beware re the aftermarket stuff.
So I always go for OEM parts, but then I don't lose sleep over money wasted on aftermarket junk, and I share my hard lessons learned experiences with those who are in the same situation I am with the Jag, and I don't call them stupid if they choose to go the aftermarket route.
06-21-2014, 06:17 PM
#19
Point of clarification:
This is the cheap part that porsche no longer makes and can be replaced in an hour with for $30 with a VW or Audi part. It usually fixes the problems, but not always
This is what Porsche replaced for you:
This piece is about $200 from Porsche and requires more labor to replace. If you figure $222 for the parts and 3 hours labor - you get the $600. Expensive, but not unreasonable.
This is the cheap part that porsche no longer makes and can be replaced in an hour with for $30 with a VW or Audi part. It usually fixes the problems, but not always
This is what Porsche replaced for you:
This piece is about $200 from Porsche and requires more labor to replace. If you figure $222 for the parts and 3 hours labor - you get the $600. Expensive, but not unreasonable.
06-21-2014, 11:06 PM
#20
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Point of clarification:
This is the cheap part that porsche no longer makes and can be replaced in an hour with for $30 with a VW or Audi part. It usually fixes the problems, but not always
This is what Porsche replaced for you:
This piece is about $200 from Porsche and requires more labor to replace. If you figure $222 for the parts and 3 hours labor - you get the $600. Expensive, but not unreasonable.
This is the cheap part that porsche no longer makes and can be replaced in an hour with for $30 with a VW or Audi part. It usually fixes the problems, but not always
This is what Porsche replaced for you:
This piece is about $200 from Porsche and requires more labor to replace. If you figure $222 for the parts and 3 hours labor - you get the $600. Expensive, but not unreasonable.
06-22-2014, 12:29 AM
#21
Rennlist Member
Just to clarify for future users, the dealer will replace the entire ignition switch but you probably just needed the cheap electrical part replaced. The thing will act like it is more than just the electrical part - mine was crunchy and sticky and wouldn't let me remove my key. I thought for sure I would need to replace the entire assembly - I thought there was no way it would just be the cheap part that would fix it. But, for $12, I thought it would be worth a shot. I swung by the local NAPA parts store and spent 19 minutes replacing the electrical portion of the switch. Works like a charm now.
06-22-2014, 01:03 AM
#22
The entire assembly is upgraded and the original was discontinued, so there must be sme problems with it. But I had problems this winter if the temp was below freezing. When I removed the key the car stayed on for a few minutes, then there was a click and the power turned off. I just replaced the electrical part also when I saw how much labor was involved in the the removal of the entire part. I am waiting for the winter to see if my cheap fix was enough.
06-24-2014, 12:36 PM
#23
I would like to pick one up as mine is getting a little sticky. Anyone have the part number for the NAPA part? I hate going in without the part number and they ask what car is it for... you way "Porsche" they say immediately, "Nope, don't have it!"
06-25-2014, 02:29 PM
#25
Thanks! Right after posting this yesterday I went to lunch in the 996, stopped at an Autozone (mind you it was 104 degrees out in AZ) to see if they have the part, they didn't, went to start car it was acting crazy would not start, windows going crazy etc... but starter would barely start to turn over, tried to jump. Called my Indy convinced it was the ignition switch, he said nope, replace the battery. Walked back into Autozone bought battery and replaced... solved the problem.
On lunch today I am going to buy a lottery ticket.
On lunch today I am going to buy a lottery ticket.
01-14-2015, 09:03 PM
#27
Instructor
I bought the Napa switch and it was cheap plastic junk that would not even align with the key barrel. I swapped it for another and it came apart during fitting.
Then I bought the Pelican Parts $30 unit that was the same as old Porsche part and it went right in. I also replaced my clutch and brake pedal switches at the same time and now my ABS / PSM / blower motor all work again, the car turns over every time I try to start it and there are no warning lights on the dash for the first time since I owned the car.
Then I bought the Pelican Parts $30 unit that was the same as old Porsche part and it went right in. I also replaced my clutch and brake pedal switches at the same time and now my ABS / PSM / blower motor all work again, the car turns over every time I try to start it and there are no warning lights on the dash for the first time since I owned the car.
01-23-2015, 05:33 PM
#28
When I pull out my key it sometimes takes about a second to go "click". This morning I didn't get a click and I couldn't get the key in for a second. I kind of wiggled the key, got the same click and the key went in. Is this the same issue described in this thread? Thanks
01-23-2015, 06:09 PM
#29
Rennlist Member
Swapping the electrical portion only of the switch seems to fix a wide variety of problems associated with the ignition switch. I could have sworn that the first time mine went bad it was the tumblers that would need to be replaced, but the $12 switch fixed it. That switch lasted me about a year before I had to replace it. Now I keep a spare in my car along with a very small flat blade screwdriver tip. Once you swap it out once, it is a 15 minute job to do it again.
Bottom line, first step with any ignition switch related problem should be to drop the $12 bucks at NAPA to swap out the electrical portion of the switch. It's only slightly more expensive and troublesome to do than swapping a light bulb. So, think of it this way, if a light bulb were to go out on your car, the first thing you'd do is swap the bulb rather than replacing the entire light housing. Only if the bulb swap didn't work would you consider spending the $$ to change out the entire housing.
Bottom line, first step with any ignition switch related problem should be to drop the $12 bucks at NAPA to swap out the electrical portion of the switch. It's only slightly more expensive and troublesome to do than swapping a light bulb. So, think of it this way, if a light bulb were to go out on your car, the first thing you'd do is swap the bulb rather than replacing the entire light housing. Only if the bulb swap didn't work would you consider spending the $$ to change out the entire housing.
01-23-2015, 07:36 PM
#30
Rennlist Member
Swapping the electrical portion only of the switch seems to fix a wide variety of problems associated with the ignition switch. I could have sworn that the first time mine went bad it was the tumblers that would need to be replaced, but the $12 switch fixed it. That switch lasted me about a year before I had to replace it. Now I keep a spare in my car along with a very small flat blade screwdriver tip. Once you swap it out once, it is a 15 minute job to do it again.
Bottom line, first step with any ignition switch related problem should be to drop the $12 bucks at NAPA to swap out the electrical portion of the switch. It's only slightly more expensive and troublesome to do than swapping a light bulb. So, think of it this way, if a light bulb were to go out on your car, the first thing you'd do is swap the bulb rather than replacing the entire light housing. Only if the bulb swap didn't work would you consider spending the $$ to change out the entire housing.
Bottom line, first step with any ignition switch related problem should be to drop the $12 bucks at NAPA to swap out the electrical portion of the switch. It's only slightly more expensive and troublesome to do than swapping a light bulb. So, think of it this way, if a light bulb were to go out on your car, the first thing you'd do is swap the bulb rather than replacing the entire light housing. Only if the bulb swap didn't work would you consider spending the $$ to change out the entire housing.
Or, you know, WD-40.