rwiii, I had the exact same issue. Other times, the cylinder would not release the key, and I had to fight with it. Issue was resolved using the $30 Pelican switch component.

 

 

Thanks 5CH

 

hi im having sort of the same problem, my 2004 911 is not starting, I turn the key to start the car I get all lights and no turn of the engine and if i leave it in that positing after a while it mysteriously starts. i was told it can be the ignition i order the ignition tumbler from Pelican i would like to replace it . Does anyone have a video on the process or can give me on how to replace it before i go and start ripping things out...... lol thank you

 

My turbo did the same thing. I would turn the key and you couldnt hear the motor crank. Everything else appeared normal. I bought a new electrical switch at my vw parts department and 30 min later everything was working great. The new ignition switch also solved a higher battery draw when the car was off.

 

http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/R...on_Switch.html

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...ering_Lock.htm

Your search took 0.0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000003 seconds.

 

what electrical switch did you get? Reason why im asking is because i replaced the ignition switch tumbler and still the same problem.......

 

It could also be your clutch pedal switch, very easy and cheap fix. I bought genuine Porsche from Sunset for under $20 I believe.
I tried 2 or 3 ignition switches from NAPA, but the quality was so poor that I bought the real thing.

 

I've searched and read every ignition switch post. That said....

1992 C2 Cab. 6speed

My issue was as follows:

No electrical problems with any systems and the car is running great.
The car starts fine and starts every time normally.
But when I go to shut the engine off and turn the key all the way counterclockwise, the car shuts off and the key comes out of the ignition, however, it can take 2 seconds, 5 seconds, or 30 seconds for the ignition to springs back. It's like it is stuck and slowly frees itself and snaps back. Until it snaps back the key can not be inserted in the ignition.

Now, if I am reading the post correctly this is not new or unusual. It seems that others have had this exact issue and swapping out the ignition switch solved the problem. Even though it would seem that it sounds like a mechanical issue, like the tumbler not springing back right away. But people swapped the switch for "****s and giggles" and the issue was resolved. Well I just swapped out the switch, what a pain in the ***, but i did it, and it did not solve the ignition from not springing back. I used the Napa switch ($12.18)

This situation is very unsettling because until it springs back the car can not be started. I've had to giggle and pound on it a few times for well over 2 or 3 minutes to get it to spring back. Usually though it only takes seconds.

Does it sound like I need the whole ignition replaced as others have had to do? Or what? Do I need to lubricate something?

Thanks for help....

 

Girls please, you're all pretty.

I'm in the middle of this job so hopefully this will be of help to someone. The early problematic switch has been updated with the newer perhaps slightly less problematic unit, which does require the updated steering wheel lock assembly, aka "the ray gun".

I sourced the Audi part number locally before discovering that my car has had the revised ray gun installed, which means I have to use the new style switch. The labor to install the new steering wheel lock is considerable, and since it hasn't turned out to be much of a cure I'm going to leave it to the end user to decide where to spend their money.

Here are the two switches:


The new style is the white one.

When I initially went to order a switch I called Sunset Porsche in Portland, OR. When he asked me which switch I had I didn't know about the update. Here is the part that is in conflict with what I'm reading in this thread:
The guy taking my phone order told me that I can buy the white electrical portion for $32 and the entire assembly for something like $147.

Once I crawled in there and got my switch out (you can actually see the colored barrel section prior to removal so you don't have to take it out to know), I decided to give a local dealer a shot at selling me a switch. They told me I can't buy the switch only and quoted me a much higher number than Sunset for the switch assembly with the steering wheel lock.

Some people like getting screwed and lied to I guess ($600 for a job that only requires one tool - a small screwdriver - or "Porsche doesn't sell the switch only"). That dealership lost my business in a single phone call and I ordered the switch from Sunset.

 

Not sure why my pics from earlier posts are not showing. But you need the entire cylinder lock mechanism. There is a piece on the end that locks the steering wheel that needs to pop back in before you can put the key back in. There is no way to lube it. The new parts comes with the electrical portion attached.

And be careful in the cold. It may take forever for the piece to pop back out.

 

dgjks6,

That's what I thought. South Florida so not to cold here much.

So this is what they are talking about that dealers are charging $600-$800 to do?

I replaced the old style switch with a new old style switch from Napa and as I said it did not help. So' I'll just keep the old one in the car with tools in case I have the electrical failure.

Any idea what the part number(s) are for what is needed for the cylinder lock mechanism is/are?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine-...RWP1UV&vxp=mtr

Follow the pelican parts link listed in the above post. It's a couple hour job but not the most difficult DIY.