Need to drop the motor......me gots questions
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Mooresville, IN (Life Long Cheesehead)
Posts: 5,815
Likes: 0
Received 54 Likes
on
35 Posts
Need to drop the motor......me gots questions
Well with the holidays upon us I have 2 blissful weeks off.....not so blissful but actually looking forward to it......I have to drop my motor. Something to do intermix but that is not what this post is about....except for how I clean the coolant lines out.
Any and all pointers in getting me the removal is welcome.
I have a lift and have been reading up on how to do this but I'm not sure if the motor can be dropped alone or does the transmission need to come with it?
What say you?
Any and all pointers in getting me the removal is welcome.
I have a lift and have been reading up on how to do this but I'm not sure if the motor can be dropped alone or does the transmission need to come with it?
What say you?
#3
Hey SP. I just did this. Both out as a unit is easy. Some things I do are:
Instead of removing clutch slave from trans, I disconnect the lower line fitting (not the top one). Im flushing system anyway so its easier for me.
As I remove each piece, brace, etc, I put the mounting hardware right back in the hole to help keep up with them.
You can remove mufflers first before drop for much more work room and visibility.
A few other things too. Im about to re-install my engine/trans and there is really only two small containers of fasteners/nuts/bolts to keep up with.
Lower the engine a few inches to help you get the PS lines, 3rd AC bolt (if your not going to disco AC lines), and a few other things.
This is so easy to do, I would recommend it for your 60,000 mile service so you can easily change plugs, AOS/OVS, some seals, coolant lines, hoses, coolant tank, T-stat, oil cooler, IMSB, RMS, clutch, etc. all at the same time. To me it was worth the drop even if your only doing the AOS/OVS.
Sorry your having engine problems again. Maybe you can give details about what your doing to help others.
DONT get in a hurry, make notes, take some pics, and you will be fine!
Instead of removing clutch slave from trans, I disconnect the lower line fitting (not the top one). Im flushing system anyway so its easier for me.
As I remove each piece, brace, etc, I put the mounting hardware right back in the hole to help keep up with them.
You can remove mufflers first before drop for much more work room and visibility.
A few other things too. Im about to re-install my engine/trans and there is really only two small containers of fasteners/nuts/bolts to keep up with.
Lower the engine a few inches to help you get the PS lines, 3rd AC bolt (if your not going to disco AC lines), and a few other things.
This is so easy to do, I would recommend it for your 60,000 mile service so you can easily change plugs, AOS/OVS, some seals, coolant lines, hoses, coolant tank, T-stat, oil cooler, IMSB, RMS, clutch, etc. all at the same time. To me it was worth the drop even if your only doing the AOS/OVS.
Sorry your having engine problems again. Maybe you can give details about what your doing to help others.
DONT get in a hurry, make notes, take some pics, and you will be fine!
Last edited by KrazyK; 12-21-2013 at 11:06 PM.
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Mooresville, IN (Life Long Cheesehead)
Posts: 5,815
Likes: 0
Received 54 Likes
on
35 Posts
I appreciate this type of input KK......thanks for that. No doubt it has been a tough year on my car. I have never dropped the motor before. How does the front of the tranny come loose? I guess once I have the underbody panels off it will be obvious.
The intermix became evident this way.......a few weeks ago the oil pressure gauge was reading 1 bar low at cold start than would be at 2 bars when warm instead of 3 while driving. The car heat was not blowing as warm as it had. The gauge righted itself after a few days but then the temp light flickered at cold start. This meant coolant was low. When I went to add pcar coolant the reservoir looked like it had a dark yellow color to it. Stuck my finger in it and it was oil.
I'll be draining the fluids tomorrow. Not sure if there is coolant in the oil. Dipstick looks fine.
Any idea on how to flush the coolant lines?
The intermix became evident this way.......a few weeks ago the oil pressure gauge was reading 1 bar low at cold start than would be at 2 bars when warm instead of 3 while driving. The car heat was not blowing as warm as it had. The gauge righted itself after a few days but then the temp light flickered at cold start. This meant coolant was low. When I went to add pcar coolant the reservoir looked like it had a dark yellow color to it. Stuck my finger in it and it was oil.
I'll be draining the fluids tomorrow. Not sure if there is coolant in the oil. Dipstick looks fine.
Any idea on how to flush the coolant lines?
#5
For C2 there is one metal bracket thet holds the transmission. I found it easyer to remove the whole bracket. Well it's much easyer to instal the transmission with the bracket.
Not sure how to remove the driveshaft, your's is c4 right?
Flush the whole system when you have the leak fixed and everything put back to gether. Use some radiator cleaner, or if that wont work, some solvent free degreacer. Just make sure that you use rubber friendly cleaners.
For the clutch slave, remove it last. Drop the engine and transmission little to make more room. Bleeding the cluch is PIA...
Check the thread that was posted about leaking ps lines. Good pointer's how to get the lines off. Mine was very tight and the space is limited.
Dropping the engine and transmission is very easy diy. It's well engineer'd package.
Not sure how to remove the driveshaft, your's is c4 right?
Flush the whole system when you have the leak fixed and everything put back to gether. Use some radiator cleaner, or if that wont work, some solvent free degreacer. Just make sure that you use rubber friendly cleaners.
For the clutch slave, remove it last. Drop the engine and transmission little to make more room. Bleeding the cluch is PIA...
Check the thread that was posted about leaking ps lines. Good pointer's how to get the lines off. Mine was very tight and the space is limited.
Dropping the engine and transmission is very easy diy. It's well engineer'd package.
#6
Trending Topics
#8
I plan to use this to flush the lines when I replace my wp in the spring... maybe it helps you.
search in the 996 forum for "Simple 3-step complete coolant drain (updated w/ refill procedure + water pump tips)" as I can't get a linky for some reason... GL!
search in the 996 forum for "Simple 3-step complete coolant drain (updated w/ refill procedure + water pump tips)" as I can't get a linky for some reason... GL!
#9
Do a search on threads started by Dharn55. He had an intermix issue and posted a lot of great information on solving the problem himself and working through the issues related to this failure.
-Shawn
-Shawn
#11
Rennlist Member
I got this to flush out the heater core on my wife's car:
It'll probably work well for you, too.
It'll probably work well for you, too.
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Mooresville, IN (Life Long Cheesehead)
Posts: 5,815
Likes: 0
Received 54 Likes
on
35 Posts
I got this to flush out the heater core on my wife's car:
OTC 6043 Blast-Vac Multipurpose Cleaning Gun : Amazon.com : Automotive
It'll probably work well for you, too.
OTC 6043 Blast-Vac Multipurpose Cleaning Gun : Amazon.com : Automotive
It'll probably work well for you, too.
#14
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Mooresville, IN (Life Long Cheesehead)
Posts: 5,815
Likes: 0
Received 54 Likes
on
35 Posts
Steve! Hope all is well. I pulled the bumper and heat shields last night....in between a couple Bourbon's . I'm sure all will be fine. The motor is going to the best place I can think of for repair.
I bought some very low mile (20K miles) front axles awhile back....my CV boots had been torn for some time. This is good time to dig into that too.
Thankfully I have a used up truck that is getting me around town. Funny how people don't think I'm cool driving a 218K mile rusted Dodge Ram 1500.
Happy Festivus!
I bought some very low mile (20K miles) front axles awhile back....my CV boots had been torn for some time. This is good time to dig into that too.
Thankfully I have a used up truck that is getting me around town. Funny how people don't think I'm cool driving a 218K mile rusted Dodge Ram 1500.
Happy Festivus!
#15
Rennlist Member
Nice garage, Pete!
TC