sandersd

with a Sir P 252 removal tool?



The conical section has threads so I assumed I turned it to lock into the seal but it doesn't seem to go in far enough to latch on. Do I tap it in with a hammer? I don't want to damage any internals.

It'd be nice if the manufacturer provided instructions on how to use their product but I couldn't find any.

Anyone used one of these tools? Thanks...

sandersd

Here's a pic of how far the tool will insert:



And here is the tool removed showing how far it went in:

KrazyK

See PM I sent you. When I get home, I will double check the service manual.

sandersd

I couldn't find anything in the AllData online manual. I tried pressing and turning and tapping with a deadblow while doing so. I guess I'll try again tonight.

Just called the dealer and asked for a price to R&R the seal and transmission mount if I delivered the trans to them - 2.5 hours labor they wanted to charge me! For what - 20 minutes work? Not a chance.

KrazyK

Are you turning it the correct direction. Dont know if its right or left threads. I will try to be sure and look in manual.

sandersd

Regular threads - clockwise should engage.

sandersd

I'm wondering if the seal should have been set this far recessed from the lip of the case. The manual say it should driven "as far as the seal housing mounting face". That would mean it is too far in and maybe that's why the tool fails to grab the seal for extraction.



I think I may have to go to one of the lever type seal extractors. I hope I can reach the seal with the tooth. If anyone has had a similar experience feel free to offer suggestions.

Now I wish I hadn't banged on the tool so hard with the hammer...

KrazyK

Didn't you suspect someone had pulled this trans before and worked on it before you? The silicone, missing bolts, etc? Maybe they drove the seal way too deep also?

sandersd

Looks that way. Now I'm worried all the banging with the hammer may have damaged something inside, but all I see on the exploded view is the shaft. When I get the seal off I can see what the tool was bottoming out on and check it for damage.

In another thread someone had to force the seal into the differential case, remove the differential, and cut the seal off the shaft. It didn't sound too difficult but I hope it doesn't come to that.

sandersd

BTW thanks for your input and for participating in the conversation.

KrazyK

I agree. In your first pic the seal looks too deep. Guess thats why tool cant grab it. You should be able to carefully pry it out in pieces. Good thing your taking care of it now. Great info for us. Now why did they pull trans before? Makes you wonder.

sandersd

According to the service record a clutch R&R.

KrazyK

Do the details happen to mention replacing the shaft seal. That would explain it. The silicone, I'm clueless.

Imo000

You can always shorten the end of the tool and try again. Stop using the hammer.

sandersd

I agree. I arrived at both those conclusions also - especially to stop using the hammer!

Anyway, I went to Sears and bought a lever type seal puller and to Harbor Freight and bought a slide hammer. I came home and tried the lever puller first but there wasn't enough room either to fit the tooth under the seal or to pry it if it had fit.

Then I tried to fit the various hooks that came with the slide hammer but they were too big also. Next I drilled a hole, screwed in a sheet metal screw and tried pulling the seal with the slide hammer, but the screw pulled out - tried again in a different spot - same result.

Tried to cut it with a small set of wire cutters but the metal was too hard. Couldn't get a good hold with needle nose pliers.

By then one side of the seal was getting pretty mangled so I pried on it with a small pry bar and a screwdriver. I tried to be really careful and not damage either the shaft or, more likely, the aluminum seal bore. After some further mangling with the pry bar and screwdriver I was able to insert a hook and use the slide hammer to pull out the seal. Finally.

Although I suspected the seal was inserted in further than necessary, after removing the old seal it looks like the bore is countersunk for the seal to fit where it was. There is also a gap at the bottom edge of the bore that would preclude the seal being installed any further out than it was. At first I thought it had a piece broken out but upon closer inspection it was machined into the edge of the bore.

So I guess the SIR tool was never going to work without, as you say, cutting off a bit until it fit properly. When I was banging with the hammer the end of the tool was against the input shaft bearing. It doesn't have any markings or dents from the tool and appears undamaged so I hope it's OK. It would really, really suck to put everything back together and have the bearing fail.

It seems there is just no simple way to change that seal, unless the factory tool works better than the copy I have.