silotwo

Hurdi, with your level of patience you should be fine. I put my car on double 2X12's at all four corners, used the rear jacking point to raise the entire side of the car. Removed the air box, then made sure I could break the bottom nuts loose, then the top bolts on the right side, then moved the air injection pump out of the way, broke the top bolts loose on the left side. Had I not been able to break any of the fasteners loose I simply would have stopped and then been willing to pay to have the mounts replaced. My car has seen at least six winters, I don't live far from you. I was concerned that the road salt might have caused a problem, but everything came apart just fine. Might have helped that I take the car through an automated wash with undercarriage spray once per week in the winter.

I also made sure that I had the engine supported with my floor jack, to the point where the load was off of the mounts. I use a hockey puck on top of the jack. I used a 3/8" drive torque wrench for the top bolts and 1/2" drive torque wrench on the bottom nuts.

DTMiller

Yeah, I just did mine and 99% of the effort was breaking loose the bottom nuts. Once that was done it was a piece of cake.

alpine003

Black pipe is your friend. I always have one as I no longer wish to struggle in my older years.

Hurdigurdiman

I am confused as to the amount of jacking points to be used in the DIY job. I have at my disposal two racing adjustable jack stands and a low profile racing trolley jack. Now does the car have to be level on 4 jacks and then the trolley jack is used to take the engine weight say an inch or so? When you say 2x12s at all four corners, can you explain what you mean more fully please. I can borrow two more jack stands for the front if required from a mate of mine if the car has to be level. So would it be OK to use the trolley on the front to raise the whole side and put jacks in one side back and front? Same on the other side bringing the car up about 18 inch from the floor all around, then use the trolley to take the engine that bit higher to lift and ease pressure from the engine mountings? Or can it be done using my own two jack stands on the rear then go on slightly with the trolley to take the pressure from the engine mounts. Hope you understand those rambling questions.

Hurdigurdiman

OK I just ordered (or my wife did for me) 2 engine mounts plus an air filter from Pelican Parts $206. I also needed a coil mounting screw $1-75 and even though the air filter and engine mounts qualified for free shipping, the coil mounting screw DID NOT and Pelican parts were adding on $13 for a 1-75 screw. I told them to stick the screw where the monkey sticks his nuts. UP THEIR ***. That has pissed me off. UNLESS PELICAN PARTS READS THIS AND STICKS A COIL MOUNTING SCREW IN THERE FOR FREE.

CJWessing

I put the rear of the car on jack stands and supported the weight of the engine with my floor jack while replacing the mounts.

sjg1138

I did the same. Only two jack stands one on either side in the rear. I put a piece of wood between the jack and the bottom of the engine when I supported the engine with the jack so as not to harm it.

socalgt3

Glad to hear that you were able to get this fixed yourself...with a great bunch on this forum here to support you!

silotwo

Hurdi - I have run into the same shipping cost issue from a few vendors. The solution was to buy the low cost parts from my dealer, in some cases the parts are actually cheaper and you can have them in hand.

silotwo

You could simply use jack stands at the rear jacking points. I used double 2X12's because I happened to have a bunch of cut offs laying around and the car didn't need to be more than a few inches off the ground. You don't need to do it at all four corners, I did that because I was doing an oil change at the same time and wanted the car level. I also didn't want the car on stands as I was unsure of just how much force it would take to break the bottom nuts loose, I was after stability. Hope this helps clarify things a bit.

Dstutler

Congrats on your resolution. I hate that oh **** feeling when Murphy's law pops up and you start second guessing your decision. Not to be to incensitive but look at what you've learned!!!

Dstutler

I recently had my motor mounts replaced and really didn't see that much of a difference in shifting/permance. I did notice the tips were better positioned but I believe that to be due to the Indy replacing the exhaust for FisterD at the same time and adjusting the tips. Perhaps my mounts weren't as bad as I thought but the tips hung really low - see Avatar of before. (Car has 59,000 miles on it and it's an '02 C4).

Hurdigurdiman

OK I have everything ready for the motor mounts arriving in a couple of days. I Used PB Blaster to break the hold on the bottom nuts using a large torsion bar and half inch long reach wrench with extension. Then I removed the air pump no problem or enough to crack open last bolt. Then cracked open the other 3 bolts which hold the top of the mounts. Then took the strain off the engine letting the car rest on two rear stands. So the only thinbgs I am waiting for now are the engine mounts coming from Pelican Parts along with an air filter. OMG is it dirty in that engine compartment.

AndyK

I didn't use any jack stands when I did my mounts. Just backed the car out of the garage enough for the rear to hang over the threashold. Slid the jack under the motor, and it was a matter of undoing and re-doing the nuts and bolts.