scotindallas

Just did mine. Dealer charged $490.00...

palestar

$800 for an ignition switch is madness, paying dealer rates is absurd unless you are into burning money.

pl

did mine back in 2007, used the cheap audi parts from ebay.
u need to be upside down to put your head under the dash board to unscrew 2 or 3 small flat screws like on the glasses.
much easier doing it on a cab with top-down. :-)

PelicanParts.com

The ignition switch may be a good place to start. I see DIY's posted earlier. We do stock the switches:
996 Ignition Switch

Mark/Pelican Parts

perryinva

My ignition switch just started acting up. It is very stiff to rotate full CCW and difficult to get the key out. Starts fine every time, but trying to remove feels like I am forcing something in the ignition that is worn, hard CCW to get the key out. Then sometimes , with the key removed, I get the alarm saying "Ignition Key Not Removed". If I smack the ignition with the palm of my hand, I hear something snap/sproing in to place, and the alarm clears. Dry lube does not appear to help. You can actually see the wedged shape part that the key pushes aside (I assume it is the key in place interlock) through the key hole, is stuck in the"pushed aside" position, and the smack on my hand causes it to pop back into the keyhole. Honestly, though that part seems unrelated to the "hard to get the key out" issue. Does this sound like the "back end" fix with the electronic part from Pelican would fix it, or do I need a whole switch assembly?

EDIT: OK, after reading a few more threads (ok lots of threads) it really sounds like it's just the electrical back end switch, and certainly just worth trying that first. This place is DA Bomb!

soverystout

I'd bet the farm that the back end piece is your issue. Had the exact same symptoms and the cheap piece fixed it.

perryinva

Thanks, Jim, I appreciate your input. I didn't think it was the mechanism, as it happened so suddenly, like something plastic went smoosh, which it looks like the business part of the back end is all plastic. Part ordered and already shipped.

EDIT: Friday couldn't get key out of ignition. Part arrived Sat, installed Sun, used the Uro one for under $20. Nicely built, actual removal and installation as others said, maybe 30 min. Used a small flat blade Craftsman, just the 2 screws, pulls right out. But the %$^@* AC duct, what a PITA getting back in. Just like you said, Jim, solved everything. Key easily turned to off with the old part removed, installed new part, and whole ignition feels brand new, snaps strongly back to run from start, key turns off smoothly and comes out easily.

targa996

My switch just died also - a few days ago the lock would stick after key came out (with key not removed warning) and yesterday I heard a piece of plastic snap when I turned the engine on and the AC controls would not work properly.

The instructions on Rennlist are great - removal took almost an hour - but I was taking my time - didn't have a TORX driver that fit well in the light socket - but eventually got the screw out - a bit of contorsion under the dash, but the old switch part came off relatively easy and I got a new one from Napa for ~$11 - put it back in - PITA to reinstall the AC duct - but only 30 minutes to replace everything - so I think 20 mins is optimistic for a first time job - but this is definitely a dooable DIY if you have the right tools and some patience.

New ignition switch feels a little stiff, but is working fine. New part is made in China - old audi stamped was was W.Germany. Still if I have to replace again in a couple of years it should be much quicker next time.

Hurdigurdiman

$800?????????? First off I would tell him to go **** himself , turn on my heels and never return.

medent

I'm starting to uncover the steering lock assembly.
Anyone know how to remove part #996 552 271 03 (the steering column cover just under the instrument pod)? I removed the pod and then the two top screws from this part. But this cover is still fixed under the steering column. It might just be pop fasteners but I don't want to force it in case there are some hidden screws.
What I want to reveal is the ignition switch steering lock (part #996 347 017 07 M100).
To remove the cover do I need to remove the steering wheel and the other pieces that cover the column?

lingpoen

I had all the ignition switch problems, sticking, turning too much, seat not changing program position w key, etc.. I bought the switch end piece on-line, shipped to me for $16. Same part was $135 at the dealer, $65 at the VW/AUDI dealer. It sat on my bench for almost 6 months cause I was nervous about changing it out. IF I CAN DO THIS, ANYONE CAN DO THIS.....55 minutes & a few lower back massages....and all problems gone-

good luck

FRUNKenstein

My ignition switch started acting up about a week ago - hard to turn and remove key, etc. Finally the key got stuck in the ignition and I couldn't get it out no matter what I tried. Bought the part from NAPA (in stock, part number 4A0905849B, $11.49 plus tax). From start to finish, the job took 19 minutes. I did not remove the left side vent, just the one air duct piece above the brake and clutch pedals. I did not unhook the battery. Put a folded up towel or some other pad over the door ledge as a cushion for your back. Run the drivers seat all the way back. Use a small flathead screwdriver tip only, like one you would put in an electric drill. You'll want a light that floods the space but doesn't get hot as it will be right next to your head - I used an LED shop light. After you pull the purple plug off, put your head against the outside wall and you can easily see both set screws (probably covered in red sealant). Be careful when you scrape the red sealant off the set screws - it flakes off easily but landed right in my eyes. Doesn't take much torque to break the set screws loose. Back them out several turns, then pull off the switch. Once I did that, I was able to pull my key out of the ignition. Plug in new switch, tighten set screws, put on the purple plug and test the ignition. Replace the air duct and you're done.
OBTW, I'm a 6 foot, 245 pound, 50 year old guy, so you really don't need to be built like Tinkerbell to do this.

targa996

Yeah - but it helps ! Had my 14 y/o daughter fiddle the a/c duct back together - she did that in 5 mins with her small hands ! Now she can put "Porsche Mechanic" on her resume

sjfehr

It's $15 DIY job, a known high failure item (seems to be less "if" then "when"), and one that has pretty stiff consequences when it fails (unable to turn the car on, unable to turn it off, unabled to remove the key, etc., depending on how it fails). I bought a spare switch just to have it readily on hand; seemed like cheap insurance. This is the only part I've done this for.

e: Heavy keychains are suspected to lead to early switch failure, so keep that keychain very light, too.

Jorge Moreno

Today, I tried for over 2 hours to complete this supposed 19 minute task . Let me point out I'm quite a lot bigger than KC Attorney and found my long forearms do not bend enough to get my hands in the proper position to loosen the 2 screws. This seems simple enough but not for me, therefore is there someone out there in the southern Cal area who has changed this out and would be willing to do it again? I will drive and pay labor rate?