Updated Alternator/Starter cable
#16
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According to Sunset I need the P/N 99660701901 cable not 1903. Not sure why, but that's what I will order. I think it may be specific to older 996s ('99). I'm also going to replace the Alternator Regulator while I've got it all apart. I ordered F00M-144-136 from Pelican.
#17
Nordschleife Master
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Originally Posted by sjg1138:11105927
According to Sunset I need the P/N 99660701901 cable not 1903. Not sure why, but that's what I will order. I think it may be specific to older 996s ('99). I'm also going to replace the Alternator Regulator while I've got it all apart. I ordered F00M-144-136 from Pelican.
#18
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I'm a good way (hopefully) through the process and am calling it a day. The Alternator was very hard to get out. I beat on the Upper bolt with a rubber mallet but could not get it free. I carefully used a pry bar and the Alternator finally came loose. Just maneuvering the Alternator out was tricky too. Now I'm halfway through getting the AC compressor out. Its amazing how much has to be done just to get a new cable in!
#19
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I'm a good way (hopefully) through the process and am calling it a day. The Alternator was very hard to get out. I beat on the Upper bolt with a rubber mallet but could not get it free. I carefully used a pry bar and the Alternator finally came loose. Just maneuvering the Alternator out was tricky too. Now I'm halfway through getting the AC compressor out. Its amazing how much has to be done just to get a new cable in!
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#20
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OK. Now I have a problem. I took the cover off of the Alternator so I could replace the Regulator. I then removed the two screws that hold the Regulator to the Alternator and.... both screws snapped! About 2mm of the screws were left on the heads (which came off). The rest of the screws are stuck in the Alternator body. Pretty frustrating. These are small screws. Not sure how to proceed. Any ideas anyone? Not sure I can drill them out without destroying the threads in the Alternator.
#21
Nordschleife Master
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Have you tried to grab the screw with a vise grip plier? Can you dremel a straight slot on the screw and use a flat blade screwdriver?
These screws should not be on that tight. Worst is you can use a left-hand drill bit to drill them out.
These screws should not be on that tight. Worst is you can use a left-hand drill bit to drill them out.
#22
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Btw, if you destroy the threads, you should still be able to retap the alt threads to one size bigger or even to the next std size (and use std screws instead of metric). Just need the screw head small enough to recess in the regulator.
#24
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OK. So I have successfully installed a new Alternator/Starter cable. I followed the directions here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutor...e-replacement/ with one BIG change. I was able to pull the cable out through the space between the AC compressor and the intake manifold (towards the charging pole) without loosening/removing the AC compressor. This is on a '99 996 cabriolet. I'm not sure if that is relevant or not as I know that some have not been able to do the same.
The thing I realized was that in order to pull the cables through ( a Y with one cable going to the starter and one going to the Alternator) it was necessary to first route the part of the Y going to the Alternator through the space between the compressor and the intake. This served to put one part of the Y parallel with the lower part of the Y, making the entire cable "thinner". Its a bit hard to explain. Anyway, then I pulled on the cable that goes to the charging pole and the cable that goes to the Alternator (which at this point were together). With a bit of a tug the cable that goes to the Starter pulled though.
I'm not sure if this will work for all cars but it worked for mine. Installation was just the reverse.
The thing I realized was that in order to pull the cables through ( a Y with one cable going to the starter and one going to the Alternator) it was necessary to first route the part of the Y going to the Alternator through the space between the compressor and the intake. This served to put one part of the Y parallel with the lower part of the Y, making the entire cable "thinner". Its a bit hard to explain. Anyway, then I pulled on the cable that goes to the charging pole and the cable that goes to the Alternator (which at this point were together). With a bit of a tug the cable that goes to the Starter pulled though.
I'm not sure if this will work for all cars but it worked for mine. Installation was just the reverse.
#26
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OK. My electrical issues seem to be fixed. Unfortunately the car is now throwing some CEL codes: P0410 and P1411. I'm guessing I broke or dislodged something when I put the alternator back in.
#28
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#30
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Yes. I hear the SAI pump run on start up. The strange thing is I did not get any error codes until the 3rd time or so I used the car after my repairs. I then cleared the codes and they came back after a few more uses. I cleared the codes again and am waiting to see if they come back.
I'm wondering if the carb cleaner I used (generously) on the intake is causing the issue and is burning off. Hoping I dont have to take the Alternator out again although it should be much easier this time.
I'm wondering if the carb cleaner I used (generously) on the intake is causing the issue and is burning off. Hoping I dont have to take the Alternator out again although it should be much easier this time.