Turn signal switch replacement DIY?
06-20-2013, 05:31 PM
#1
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Turn signal switch replacement DIY?
I have a dead turn signal switch, I've found the "you have to replace it and it's not cheap" threads, and I've bought a new one. So I'm ready to tackle replacing it this weekend, but I haven't found a clear DIY on how exactly to go about it.
Does a DIY exist? If not, what else will I need to do beyond pulling the steering wheel off and are there any gottchas that I should be aware of?
Does a DIY exist? If not, what else will I need to do beyond pulling the steering wheel off and are there any gottchas that I should be aware of?
06-20-2013, 08:52 PM
#4
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
. I tried youtube and can't find the vid. Do you have the link
Much appreciated...
Trending Topics
06-21-2013, 10:24 AM
#9
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Thanks for that. That's a pretty easy DIY, though I will admit that the first time I took off a steering wheel I was pretty intimidated myself. As everyone always suggests, the trick is to mark the column/wheel so you get it back on correctly and aren't driving with your wheel at an angle 
The only question left is if I do the right thing and disconnect the battery like you are supposed to, or just jump in and disconnect the airbag like I usually do...
The only question left is if I do the right thing and disconnect the battery like you are supposed to, or just jump in and disconnect the airbag like I usually do...
06-21-2013, 06:05 PM
#10
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
OK. I need some help. The above video says it's a T30 torx (0:31) that is needed to remove the airbag bolts, but Pelican says it is a T27 that is needed.
My problem is that the T30 driver is too long to get in there and the driver bits I have are too short to get to the bolt when they are in a socket driver (the socket is too big to fit in the hole).
So before I go buy a new tool that will work, does anyone know which DIY is correct for the size I need?
If it makes a difference, this is a 4 spoke wheel with a full leather interior (the leather wraps into the hole so I know that isn't helping me any here).
My problem is that the T30 driver is too long to get in there and the driver bits I have are too short to get to the bolt when they are in a socket driver (the socket is too big to fit in the hole).
So before I go buy a new tool that will work, does anyone know which DIY is correct for the size I need?
If it makes a difference, this is a 4 spoke wheel with a full leather interior (the leather wraps into the hole so I know that isn't helping me any here).
06-21-2013, 08:28 PM
#11
Lol...one side on mine was a t30 and the other was a t29. Ask how long it took me to figure that one out (hint: just minutes before i doused the fuggn car in gas and set it ablaze)
06-21-2013, 08:31 PM
#12
06-22-2013, 04:22 PM
#14
I found a ratcheting screwdriver kit at Home Depot (husky I think) will all the torq bits plus others for $10. The driver handle itself extends in/ out .. And at its shortest position fit perfectly behind the wheel. No problem getting screws out. .., actually more of issue getting them back in ! But with a bit of fidling ok. The video is good .. But pay good attention on where to mark wheel position before you take it off ...it was hard to see my mark on the column when I came to put it on again. Also mark depth of switch carefully as the show and when you put new switch on make sure it is same depth
06-22-2013, 05:28 PM
#15
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
I picked up a Craftsman set that had a 30 and 27 (as well as others) in a pocket knife setup (e.g. they fold out) that worked great. I swear I used the 27 to get them out, but it took the 30 to get them back in...
Yeah I spent 20 minutes trying to get the damn things to bite and tighten up. Turned out I was going the wrong way most of the time 
Of course as I'm putting my tools away I found that I missed the compression washer that goes under the steering column bolt, so I had to go through it all again (went much faster though).
The column marked fine, but my marker didn't want to mark the wheel itself. Luckily it was a very fine tip and left a clear enough mark in the grease that was on there (and preventing the marking).
Yeah, I missed that part 
When I took it for a test drive I was like "the stalks feel farther away". I also noticed there is a gap in part of the column trim (between the covers and the piece that sits behind the wheel. So I'll have to take it all apart to get that fixed, but with the heat and humidity that is supposed to hit this area starting tomorrow, it will be a few weeks (no garage).
Everything seems happy now, but when I started it up for the test drive it said the gas was bone dry. I let it get low, but not that low and I don't recall the light even being on when I got home Thursday. I took it and filled up and it not reads almost full (getting a full tank in it is a PITA that I need to tackle next) after 9 gallons which seems right from where I last recall. Is that normal after having the battery disconnected?
The other thing is that while moving the clock spring on and off the column these things fell out (one could have come from the old switch, but the second fell out during reinstallation with the old switch no where around). Everything seems to work OK and no airbag light to suggest the spring is messed up. Anyone have any idea what these are from?
actually more of issue getting them back in
Of course as I'm putting my tools away I found that I missed the compression washer that goes under the steering column bolt, so I had to go through it all again (went much faster though).
But pay good attention on where to mark wheel position before you take it off ...it was hard to see my mark on the column when I came to put it on again.
Also mark depth of switch carefully as the show and when you put new switch on make sure it is same depth
When I took it for a test drive I was like "the stalks feel farther away". I also noticed there is a gap in part of the column trim (between the covers and the piece that sits behind the wheel. So I'll have to take it all apart to get that fixed, but with the heat and humidity that is supposed to hit this area starting tomorrow, it will be a few weeks (no garage).Everything seems happy now, but when I started it up for the test drive it said the gas was bone dry. I let it get low, but not that low and I don't recall the light even being on when I got home Thursday. I took it and filled up and it not reads almost full (getting a full tank in it is a PITA that I need to tackle next) after 9 gallons which seems right from where I last recall. Is that normal after having the battery disconnected?
The other thing is that while moving the clock spring on and off the column these things fell out (one could have come from the old switch, but the second fell out during reinstallation with the old switch no where around). Everything seems to work OK and no airbag light to suggest the spring is messed up. Anyone have any idea what these are from?