I have a leak
06-25-2013, 10:04 PM
#16
Track Day
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Chicago
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Ok guys I got it back together and I need to bleed the system. How do I go about doing that? I have read other post that say I need a special vacuum for this. True?
06-26-2013, 11:27 AM
#17
Rennlist Member
UView 550000 makes the job much easier.
You can also bleed the system by running it with the bleed bale snapped up and obsessive monitoring of the coolant level.
There is a procedure that calls for something like:
warm the car up with cap off.
rev to 4000 multiple times let it drop to idle and settle down &
add fluid each time.
carry a bucket of coolant while you drive with the bale up, watching the temp gauge like a hungry hawk on a rabbit hole checking and topping up obsessively etc...
Or just bite the bullet and get a vacuum system. You need access to an air compressor to use it.
You can also bleed the system by running it with the bleed bale snapped up and obsessive monitoring of the coolant level.
There is a procedure that calls for something like:
warm the car up with cap off.
rev to 4000 multiple times let it drop to idle and settle down &
add fluid each time.
carry a bucket of coolant while you drive with the bale up, watching the temp gauge like a hungry hawk on a rabbit hole checking and topping up obsessively etc...
Or just bite the bullet and get a vacuum system. You need access to an air compressor to use it.
06-26-2013, 11:50 AM
#18
Rennlist Member
Good write-up from Renntech.org by KrazyK you should join, if you aren't a member you will not be able to access it and see the pics..
"I did not see a 996 coolant flush with pics so heres my contribution. My car is a 2003 C4S 6 speed and should be similar to all NA 996's as far as coolant flush is concerned (Tips have 3rd radiator). I decided to replace the coolant because I had no idea how long it had been in my nine year old car. It was the yellow color so I assume it was the correct type for the time but who knows. For refill I chose Pentosin Pentofrost even though its a little pricey at @$45 per gallon. Make sure you buy the G12 version for Porsche not the A1 version. The color is called purple/violet but it is really pink.
I was only able to get about 5 gallons out of my coolant system but not sure why. I suppose you could disconnect more of the system but since mine wasnt contaminated by anything I figured 5 was enough.
To do the job right you will need to remove the drain plug, pull the underbody panels, front fender liners, and disconnect several coolant hoses while catching 5+ gallons of old coolant. Its not a hard DIY but if your not familiar or comfortable dealing with this type of job defer it to a pro. You will also need some type of coolant flush / refill kit capable of pulling at least 20-25HG. Im sure the critics are going to say you dont need to do it this way and you can just lift the rear of the car, burp the system 10 times, refill, etc. but I wanted to do it using the vacuum fill method. To complete the job you may need:
Uview 550000 Airlift
3 gallons Pentosin Pentofrost G12
3 gallons Distilled Water
5MM allen wrench for drain plug
torx and other tools to remove panels
hose clamp pliers
@5 gallon bucket or a few smaller ones
Air Compressor for Airlift
Extra panel clips and plastic nuts (optional)
Worm Screw clamps (optional)
airlift.pentofrost.JPG
Before you begin its a good idea to turn the temp to HI but I dont know if this really makes a difference since your draining the entire system and using vacuum refill method. You can measure the amount removed if you want to be sure you get as much as possible out.
Safely raise and support car to a comfortable work height. Remove drain plug with 5MM allen wrench and allow to drain into bucket. You will probably get 2 or 3 gallons from here. Loosen plastic coolant tank cap to aid draining.
drain.JPG
While the engine is draining, begin removing underbody panels and front wheel liners to better access radiators. Dont worry. The rear capacity will not over flow a 4 or 5 gallon bucket. Once your satisfied, replace drain plug.
While under the car it is also a good time to inspect the rubber coolant hoses, etc. for wear and replace anything you need. With underbody panels removed, you should be able to see the 2 larger coolant lines near the center but towards each side of the car and the 2 smaller lines. Look for the clamped junctions at the lowest points of each line. One at a time I disconnected the lowest large and small lines on each side. I allowed each to drain as much as possible before reconnecting. You may need a hose pick or small screwdriver to "break" the seal between the inside of the hose and the pipe. If you believe the factory clamps are fine you may choose to reuse them. You can also replace them with good quality "worm screw" clamps. I then moved to the front and disconnected the bottom rad hose at upper clamped junction. You can easily maneuver the disconnected hose to below the bottom of the rad to drain it. After draining reconnect hoses.
large.hose.JPG
small.lines.JPG
Measure how much total coolant you drained to get a general idea of how well its going so far. If your satisfied, make sure drain plug is in and all hoses are connected. Remove plastic coolant tank cap and very carefully attach the Airlift to the opening using the appropriate adapter. Its a tight fit but is possible without removing the engine hatch. Check valve positions, connect fittings and compressor air line per instructions. You should see @25HG vacuum pulled on system. You will see collapsed rubber rad hoses which is normal. After close valve and disconnect air, watch vacuum gauge for at least 20 or 30 seconds.
airlift.JPG
collapsed.hose.JPG
I mixed my Pentosin and water 50/50 in a large container and made sure the container was higher than the coolant tank refill neck. I used my rolling work tool tray to rest the bucket on and had it next to car ready to connect to refill device. Try and get refill hose full of coolant by submerging it before you connect it. You want to prevent as little air as possible from being pulled into the system. Connect suction hose to Airlift valve, and ensure that end of suction hose remains submerged during refill. You will see the system filling as air pressure equalizes. If needed, add more coolant to bucket to keep suction end submerged. After you are satisfied you have replaced the drained coolant, remove Airlift and top off if necessary.
mixed.pentofrost.JPG
This is the point I tried the service manual procedure to ensure no air remained in system during refill. I tried the raise the rear of the car method, varying RPM's, and constant checking of coolant level, burp valve, etc. I could find no indication of any air remaining in the system so I think the vacuum fill worked. I will of course keep a very close eye on the new pretty pink coolant in the tank for awhile. I hope most of this makes sense. Im sure others may have better ways or methods than what I used. Feel free to say so. I wont be offended. Note: The mess you see under the car is from the old coolant splashing, not leaks. "
"I did not see a 996 coolant flush with pics so heres my contribution. My car is a 2003 C4S 6 speed and should be similar to all NA 996's as far as coolant flush is concerned (Tips have 3rd radiator). I decided to replace the coolant because I had no idea how long it had been in my nine year old car. It was the yellow color so I assume it was the correct type for the time but who knows. For refill I chose Pentosin Pentofrost even though its a little pricey at @$45 per gallon. Make sure you buy the G12 version for Porsche not the A1 version. The color is called purple/violet but it is really pink.
I was only able to get about 5 gallons out of my coolant system but not sure why. I suppose you could disconnect more of the system but since mine wasnt contaminated by anything I figured 5 was enough.
To do the job right you will need to remove the drain plug, pull the underbody panels, front fender liners, and disconnect several coolant hoses while catching 5+ gallons of old coolant. Its not a hard DIY but if your not familiar or comfortable dealing with this type of job defer it to a pro. You will also need some type of coolant flush / refill kit capable of pulling at least 20-25HG. Im sure the critics are going to say you dont need to do it this way and you can just lift the rear of the car, burp the system 10 times, refill, etc. but I wanted to do it using the vacuum fill method. To complete the job you may need:
Uview 550000 Airlift
3 gallons Pentosin Pentofrost G12
3 gallons Distilled Water
5MM allen wrench for drain plug
torx and other tools to remove panels
hose clamp pliers
@5 gallon bucket or a few smaller ones
Air Compressor for Airlift
Extra panel clips and plastic nuts (optional)
Worm Screw clamps (optional)
airlift.pentofrost.JPG
Before you begin its a good idea to turn the temp to HI but I dont know if this really makes a difference since your draining the entire system and using vacuum refill method. You can measure the amount removed if you want to be sure you get as much as possible out.
Safely raise and support car to a comfortable work height. Remove drain plug with 5MM allen wrench and allow to drain into bucket. You will probably get 2 or 3 gallons from here. Loosen plastic coolant tank cap to aid draining.
drain.JPG
While the engine is draining, begin removing underbody panels and front wheel liners to better access radiators. Dont worry. The rear capacity will not over flow a 4 or 5 gallon bucket. Once your satisfied, replace drain plug.
While under the car it is also a good time to inspect the rubber coolant hoses, etc. for wear and replace anything you need. With underbody panels removed, you should be able to see the 2 larger coolant lines near the center but towards each side of the car and the 2 smaller lines. Look for the clamped junctions at the lowest points of each line. One at a time I disconnected the lowest large and small lines on each side. I allowed each to drain as much as possible before reconnecting. You may need a hose pick or small screwdriver to "break" the seal between the inside of the hose and the pipe. If you believe the factory clamps are fine you may choose to reuse them. You can also replace them with good quality "worm screw" clamps. I then moved to the front and disconnected the bottom rad hose at upper clamped junction. You can easily maneuver the disconnected hose to below the bottom of the rad to drain it. After draining reconnect hoses.
large.hose.JPG
small.lines.JPG
Measure how much total coolant you drained to get a general idea of how well its going so far. If your satisfied, make sure drain plug is in and all hoses are connected. Remove plastic coolant tank cap and very carefully attach the Airlift to the opening using the appropriate adapter. Its a tight fit but is possible without removing the engine hatch. Check valve positions, connect fittings and compressor air line per instructions. You should see @25HG vacuum pulled on system. You will see collapsed rubber rad hoses which is normal. After close valve and disconnect air, watch vacuum gauge for at least 20 or 30 seconds.
airlift.JPG
collapsed.hose.JPG
I mixed my Pentosin and water 50/50 in a large container and made sure the container was higher than the coolant tank refill neck. I used my rolling work tool tray to rest the bucket on and had it next to car ready to connect to refill device. Try and get refill hose full of coolant by submerging it before you connect it. You want to prevent as little air as possible from being pulled into the system. Connect suction hose to Airlift valve, and ensure that end of suction hose remains submerged during refill. You will see the system filling as air pressure equalizes. If needed, add more coolant to bucket to keep suction end submerged. After you are satisfied you have replaced the drained coolant, remove Airlift and top off if necessary.
mixed.pentofrost.JPG
This is the point I tried the service manual procedure to ensure no air remained in system during refill. I tried the raise the rear of the car method, varying RPM's, and constant checking of coolant level, burp valve, etc. I could find no indication of any air remaining in the system so I think the vacuum fill worked. I will of course keep a very close eye on the new pretty pink coolant in the tank for awhile. I hope most of this makes sense. Im sure others may have better ways or methods than what I used. Feel free to say so. I wont be offended. Note: The mess you see under the car is from the old coolant splashing, not leaks. "
