dnitake

slopesider,
Sometimes it's better to be good than lucky!

If you go the LN way w/ your wrench, they want the old bearing sent back to them for warranty. I can see why they want to see the state of the bearing. But since I am paying to play, I wanted to see the little bastard myself, so I took it apart.

Get it fixed and go back to the track where these things belong.

KrazyK

Another destroyed dual row IMSB? There goes another DR is better theory. Details please?

Slopeslider

Mine is a single row, sorry now pics yet. Turnouted the seal was leaking but the bearing appeared to still be pretty stable (not much play). New L&N bearing and clutch installed this am. The RMS looked good and was replaced about 1 1/2 years ago so that was left as is. To me it's worth it for the POM. My indy believes the metal was from the chain tensioners. New rubber on all four corners. Picked-up my Dunlap Direzza Z2's from Tire rack this am and dropped them off with my indy. Man these are some aggressive tires. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....t&autoModClar=

All and all an expensive week! But it certainly could have been worse .

Long Islander

I'm going to change my oil myself pretty soon, so I want to check my oil filter for metal bits as well. First, what part of the filter do you cut open? Do you cut away the top and bottom plastic pieces and then cut open the two paper elements? Second, looking at your photo, I don't see anything metallic. Where are you seeing the ferrous pieces and where are they supposed to be coptured?

KrazyK

I was referring to the pics above my post. Supposedly the DR are not as prone to failure as a SR. It may be all BS. Your SR was doomed to fail from build date.

Slopeslider

If you look closely you can see aluminum colored flecks of metal. To examine you filter cut the filter open with a box cutter and the peel off the filter spine. Stretch it out and will be able to see in the pleats. Best examined in direct sun light. If you have metal it will sparkle in the sun light. You will also want to run a magnet over any metal you find.

Long Islander

Thanks. I'm also going to send my oil out for analysis in case I miss anything with my visual inspection.

Long Islander

Can anyone enlighten me as to how much an RMS replacement typically costs? Also, is there an improved Porsche version of the RMS or do you go aftermarket?

DaveCarrera4

Read this whole thread front to back for your answers. Then search here for IMSB or LM ENGINEERING.

Long Islander

Err ... I was inquiring about RMS, not IMS.

Slopeslider

Long Islander the RMS was replaced in my car prior to buying and IIRC believe the bill was in the $800 range.

Long Islander

Thanks.

Imo000

The rear main seal is a $40 part.

KrazyK

Or less! I bought 2!

Slopeslider

Got the car back today. Oil pan was as clean as a whistle, no metal. That is good news! My original assumption was probably correct that I stirred some stuff up out on the track. Now I shouldn't have to worry about the IMSB for a long time and I can enjoy driving her as she was meant to be driven.

My Porsche has had a good first half of the year: B&M shift kit, Fabspeed Max Comp CF intake, Classic 9 leather center console, Ash tray delete, frunk and engine compartment struts, Ipad mini, IMSB, Clutch, rear wheels straightened and Dunlap Direxzza ZIIs all the way around. My wallet on the other hand not so much.