Car Suddenly Became Louder, Lost Power
03-09-2013, 10:51 PM
#17
Intermediate
Thread Starter
This thread:
http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...-bank-1-a.html
Second video of bank 1-3. I am getting this sound. This exact sound. Though it's not all the time.
http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...-bank-1-a.html
Second video of bank 1-3. I am getting this sound. This exact sound. Though it's not all the time.
03-10-2013, 01:59 AM
#19
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Got the car up on the lift. Checked every square inch of the exhaust system from manifolds to tips. I'm fairly good at this, because when I got the car, it had TONS of exhaust leaks in every possible location, and I painstakingly replaced the entire system (manifolds/gaskets/bolts). Snapped off a few manifold bolts in the process, drilled them out, re-tapped etc. Got my hands bloody and dirty, but in the end it was air tight.
So anyway, did a smoke test, only very tiny leaks in one area where the cat pipe meets the muffler pipe, and another extremely small leak where the 1-3 bank manifold bolts up to the cat pipe. Not enough to cause power loss or sound increase. A tiny bead of gasket sealer would probably make both leaks go away.
Also determined that the car was low on oil (just changed it back in November, car is driven once a week, no oil leaks because I replaced the leaky RMS back in Nov/Dec also). While I had it up on the lift, I realized that I hadn't changed the battery since buying the car. Battery had some crusty old Japanese stickers on it, and since my car was brought over from Japan at least 6 years ago, and since the battery seemed to be weak (remote door locks wouldn't work after 4-5 days of being parked), I replaced the battery with a large Bosche unit.
After the oil top up, and the new battery, the car does drive remarkably smoother, and doesn't seem to stumble or hesitate. Gear shifts actually feel smoother as well. The battery was definitely suspect.
As for the mystery louder exhaust note, I'm going to guess it's a muffler that is damaged on the inside, or a loose plug, but I didn't have time today to remove the wheels/mufflers/pipes/bumper to get at the plugs. The plugs were definitely torqued to spec two months ago when they were changed though, and correct me if I'm wrong, but the 2002 tubes are different than the earlier tubes that were prone to going bad and needing replacement.
A mechanic working in the bay next to me ventured a guess that my MAF sensor might be on it's way out, because he'd seen a number of cars with K&N intake units installed that eventually developed mad MAF sensors. I was under the impression that the MAF sensor was something that either worked or didn't work. Is it possible that it could be damaged or bad, without throwing a CEL?
So anyway, did a smoke test, only very tiny leaks in one area where the cat pipe meets the muffler pipe, and another extremely small leak where the 1-3 bank manifold bolts up to the cat pipe. Not enough to cause power loss or sound increase. A tiny bead of gasket sealer would probably make both leaks go away.
Also determined that the car was low on oil (just changed it back in November, car is driven once a week, no oil leaks because I replaced the leaky RMS back in Nov/Dec also). While I had it up on the lift, I realized that I hadn't changed the battery since buying the car. Battery had some crusty old Japanese stickers on it, and since my car was brought over from Japan at least 6 years ago, and since the battery seemed to be weak (remote door locks wouldn't work after 4-5 days of being parked), I replaced the battery with a large Bosche unit.
After the oil top up, and the new battery, the car does drive remarkably smoother, and doesn't seem to stumble or hesitate. Gear shifts actually feel smoother as well. The battery was definitely suspect.
As for the mystery louder exhaust note, I'm going to guess it's a muffler that is damaged on the inside, or a loose plug, but I didn't have time today to remove the wheels/mufflers/pipes/bumper to get at the plugs. The plugs were definitely torqued to spec two months ago when they were changed though, and correct me if I'm wrong, but the 2002 tubes are different than the earlier tubes that were prone to going bad and needing replacement.
A mechanic working in the bay next to me ventured a guess that my MAF sensor might be on it's way out, because he'd seen a number of cars with K&N intake units installed that eventually developed mad MAF sensors. I was under the impression that the MAF sensor was something that either worked or didn't work. Is it possible that it could be damaged or bad, without throwing a CEL?
03-10-2013, 01:24 PM
#20
Drifting
K&N intake units installed that eventually developed mad MAF sensors. I was under the impression that the MAF sensor was something that either worked or didn't work. Is it possible that it could be damaged or bad, without throwing a CEL?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mass_flow_sensor explains how MAF works, typical problem with K&N filters is the oil being pulled and deposited on the sensing surface to cause incorrect sensor output to the fuel control computer, how that or even a defective MAF would/could cause high exhaust volume while the engine now runs well now and not produce a CEL is beyond me.
03-10-2013, 09:30 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
"(remote door locks wouldn't work after 4-5 days of being parked),"
Normal operation. After 4-5 days the car goes "dark" to save on battery. You then have to open the door with the key and get the key in ign within 15? seconds or the alarm will go off. There is another way to keep the alarm from sounding while opening with the key. Read the manual.
Normal operation. After 4-5 days the car goes "dark" to save on battery. You then have to open the door with the key and get the key in ign within 15? seconds or the alarm will go off. There is another way to keep the alarm from sounding while opening with the key. Read the manual.
03-11-2013, 09:22 AM
#25
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
03-11-2013, 10:48 AM
#26
True but some don't want to gamble on being stuck on the side of the road. At the very least, it can be a time issue if you have AAA. If not, the tow bill could be the same or more for a new battery as well.
03-11-2013, 05:48 PM
#27
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
Normally batteries don't just die in an instant. They give plenty of warning. Now if you reverse the polarities by accident or leave the lights on over night, that's a different story.
03-11-2013, 07:21 PM
#28
Burning Brakes
Exactly. Many times batteries give warning. Many times they do not. My unfortunate exprience is they do not usually. 3 of the last 4 I replaced (all different cars) that gave no warning, all chose the most inconvenient time possible to crap out. And NEVER at my own house. At my age and when they are 6 years old, I can't be bothered to deal with that ever again, so when they get that old, the first time I see a decent battery sale, for a battery I want, I get it. Unless I get an earlier warning first. A weak battery, which may start your car, also places a heavier load on your alternator, saps you of some power. And if you are not careful, can toast the regulator. For $100 every 6 years, WTF not? My yearly oil change costs more than that. Compared to tires, batteries are free....
03-11-2013, 07:29 PM
#29
On a related note, if you become stranded for any reason and your kids are with you, the flat bed driver might not be able to transport your kids if they are below a certain age in some states.
I found this out the hard way when my water pump blew on another car.
I found this out the hard way when my water pump blew on another car.