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Old 02-26-2013, 01:32 PM
  #46  
KrazyK
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Maybe it was a CEF. The engine still needs to be taken apart. If the noise is indeed a collapsed lifter(s) its probably damaged something by now.
Old 02-26-2013, 06:36 PM
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Imo000
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I had my 996 runnig yesterday (it hasn't ran in a few weeks) and it made the same noise but at a much lower level. Once it warmed up and I revved it a little it went away. To put it in perspective, if yours noise level was 10 then, mine was 3 but the interesting part was that it sounded exactly like in your clip.

Recorded video sometimes amplifies the sound so things can sound a lot worse than they are in real life. Have you let it warm up yet or are too scared to do aything?
Old 02-26-2013, 11:33 PM
  #48  
TeamSadistic
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Thanks for the input guys. I really don't know how long the oil has been in the car but I know it has been in there at least 2.5 years, it is a synthetic but I don't think its the mobil1 0w-40. I see that the oil plays a major part in these type of engines. The mobil1 0w-40 oil and service parts should be here on thursday. Hopefully, this weekend I will be able to change oil and drop oil pan and see if anything has broken and there is debris. If this car requires an engine tear down or major work, I will just sell it because to spend 20K in a car on a motor, that might break again is just dumb to me. These engines just don't have a good reputation on the internet and the price of the used cars shows this. I would rather invest in a newer model turbo that isn't prone to such engine failure. Thanks
Old 02-27-2013, 12:36 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by TeamSadistic
Thanks for the input guys. I really don't know how long the oil has been in the car but I know it has been in there at least 2.5 years, it is a synthetic but I don't think its the mobil1 0w-40. I see that the oil plays a major part in these type of engines. The mobil1 0w-40 oil and service parts should be here on thursday. Hopefully, this weekend I will be able to change oil and drop oil pan and see if anything has broken and there is debris. If this car requires an engine tear down or major work, I will just sell it because to spend 20K in a car on a motor, that might break again is just dumb to me. These engines just don't have a good reputation on the internet and the price of the used cars shows this. I would rather invest in a newer model turbo that isn't prone to such engine failure. Thanks

I thought you were going with the magic JG Dt-40 oil?

Also dropping the pan doesn't seem totally necessary if you haven't even had a chance to run the engine up to operating temps. You're better off IMO sending some of your oil to Blackstone for oil analysis. It can pick up more data than you can see with your naked eye. Also tear open your oil filter for visual inspection.

If you're this scared and nervous already without even doing a proper diagnosis, a Porsche really isn't for you IMHO.
Old 02-27-2013, 02:37 AM
  #50  
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I am really short of patience, the JG Dt-40 oil won't ship until next week sometime. If I knew where to get the JG oil in Florida what have gotten it already. Just sent someone to FL and they picked up filters from the dealer and oil from advance. I ordered 3 cases of JG just to have on hand, if its all that I might try in my vette.
Not really scared or nervous, its just a lot of post on different forums saying how unreliable the motor is and how it just self destructs without warning, even if you service and use right fluids. I beg to differ, about oil analysis, it can only tell me about the problem I obviously have, I think it would be more practical for preventative measures. Its either lifters, piston slap, or something broke loose. I figure any debris will be in oil pan, like metal fragments, etc or in oil filter and I can then look up in motor. Parts and service arent as easy as in US, so if this is a problematic motor, I will minimize my losses in this car and invest in a 911 turbo, that seems to be more reliable. Why throw money after bad. I can get a motor rebuilt for 7-20k depending on who does it, or spend 20k at dealership for new motor that might do samething. This car was pampered, but driven hard thats why it only has 40k miles since bought brand new, even though it was hibernation for past 2 years. Thats just the down side of not being in US, there is 70% duty on car and car parts, no dealer and no porsche specialist. Don't want a car that is problematic, reason why my brother bought car new from dealer. I had a brand new Range Rover supercharged, car spent more time being fixed than driven and always had something going wrong. Had to change supercharger 3 times, dealer covered it but had to fly technician in from dealer to fix whatever went wrong at my expense to maintain warranty. Test drove new 911 turbo at dealer in FL during christmas, and it was crazy nice. I just want something that when I turn the key, no stress. I wanna drive not be a mechanic.
Old 02-27-2013, 08:06 AM
  #51  
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Sounds like you already made up your mind so, just sell the car as is and get one with a warranty. Let a DIY-er pick it up and figure it out. Doesn't sound you have the know how or confiedence to own an out of warranty car anyways and that's ok. My '99 has 201000 miles on the original engine, so they do last.
Old 02-27-2013, 09:30 AM
  #52  
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No, I haven't made up my mind but I am just looking at worst case scenario. Right now just pissing in the wind. Will have to get hands dirty and see what's going on. I hope that I am just over reacting. It was very encouraging to know that IMo000 has over 200k on motor and going strong. IMo000 have you done any major work to motor? Is that 200k on the original motor? Thanks again
Old 02-27-2013, 11:06 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by TeamSadistic
No, I haven't made up my mind but I am just looking at worst case scenario. Right now just pissing in the wind. Will have to get hands dirty and see what's going on. I hope that I am just over reacting. It was very encouraging to know that IMo000 has over 200k on motor and going strong. IMo000 have you done any major work to motor? Is that 200k on the original motor? Thanks again
Still wondering about the gas in the tank. Did you drain the old fuel and put in fresh 91+ octane? Just using the wrong brand of gas straight fronm the pump can make my engine knock. Good luck whatever you decide.
Old 02-27-2013, 03:52 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by TeamSadistic
No, I haven't made up my mind but I am just looking at worst case scenario. Right now just pissing in the wind. Will have to get hands dirty and see what's going on. I hope that I am just over reacting. It was very encouraging to know that IMo000 has over 200k on motor and going strong. IMo000 have you done any major work to motor? Is that 200k on the original motor? Thanks again
I bought the car as a non runner. The original owner drove it until one of the vario cam tensioner pads broke and made the chain jump. This bent 6 exhaust valves. I then fixed this and installed a few new parts to freshen it up. There is a thread on this at the Canadian forum. Do a search and you'll find it under "I dragged me home one of these". The rotating assempbly is untouched and besides the 6 new valves and tensioner pads, the rest is original (new gaskrts and hardware were used where it was required). It's been back in the car since last fall. Some would consider this major work but in reality it's only moderate as the case was not split.

I encourage to do the work yourself but if you are not confortable with it, I can understand.
Old 02-27-2013, 03:54 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Gonzo911
Still wondering about the gas in the tank. Did you drain the old fuel and put in fresh 91+ octane? Just using the wrong brand of gas straight fronm the pump can make my engine knock. Good luck whatever you decide.
It wouldn't knock at idle. If the gas is bad, it would either run or not when idling. This is a single source tapping noise.
Old 02-27-2013, 06:08 PM
  #56  
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Thanks for your words of encouragement and inspiration. I do feel the gas in the tank is old but I feel as though this is something more than lifters or old gas. I have the oil and oil filter now. Rather than speculating I will drain the oil and drop the oil pan and see what I find. I will then have a better idea as to what is going on. I am hoping that it is something simple but only time will tell. In the islands the only gas we can get is 89 octane. Does porsche or anyone recommend any additive to preserve the life of the gas and or improve the octane rating.
Old 02-27-2013, 06:19 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by TeamSadistic
Thanks for your words of encouragement and inspiration. I do feel the gas in the tank is old but I feel as though this is something more than lifters or old gas. I have the oil and oil filter now. Rather than speculating I will drain the oil and drop the oil pan and see what I find. I will then have a better idea as to what is going on. I am hoping that it is something simple but only time will tell. In the islands the only gas we can get is 89 octane. Does porsche or anyone recommend any additive to preserve the life of the gas and or improve the octane rating.
I don't really get your logic. First off you haven't even run your engine long enough so how "do you feel" it's not the lifters?

Secondly, If you were going to drop the pan regardless before putting in new oil, why did you wait for the oil to come in? You could've just dropped the pan first while the new oil/filter was in route.

Lastly, what are you hoping to see or not see dropping the pan? And what will that exactly do except let you know there is no debris there? You'll still have the noise regardless.

Also if you are dropping the pan, do you have the correct pan gasket sealant to do the job correctly? Or do you have to order that and wait a few more days?

I love it when people come on here for help but ignore half the suggestions by experienced members and try to formulate their own theory. It doesn't bother me any, hope you get it fixed without getting an ulcer or growing a few gray hairs.
Old 02-27-2013, 08:28 PM
  #58  
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I will have to agree with Alpine003 above that dopping the pan is a fruitless exercise at this point. Screening the drained oil and cutting open the oil filter will tell you all you need to know. If it's a mess in there then you know it's toast.

As for 89 octane, the noise I hear on your video is not pre-ignition. That doesn't mean you can't or shouldn't run a additive, it's just not the source of your particular knock.....
Old 03-02-2013, 12:46 PM
  #59  
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Additives won't do anything to the gas. One octane point is actually only 0.1 octane. So if you add the amount recomended on the bottle, you'll go from 89.0 to 89.1. If the gas is bad, either drain it or if the tank is empty enough, fill it with premium.
Old 03-02-2013, 02:29 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Imo000
If the gas is bad, either drain it or if the tank is empty enough, fill it with premium.
I believe OP mentioned Premium wasn't readily available where he was at hence the inquiry about the additives.


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