Bleeding brakes from Castrol SRF to Motul
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Bleeding brakes from Castrol SRF to Motul
Ok, I have Castrol SRF fluid in my car. I am happy with it, but too expensive I want to try cheap stuff so that I can bleed more often.
But
There is a big disclaimer saying not to mix Castrol SRF with other brake fluid, so what kind of precaution should I take when inserting the new Motul fluid in there ?
They undoubtably will mix a bit at some point...
Anything to worry about ? or not to worry ?
But
There is a big disclaimer saying not to mix Castrol SRF with other brake fluid, so what kind of precaution should I take when inserting the new Motul fluid in there ?
They undoubtably will mix a bit at some point...
Anything to worry about ? or not to worry ?
#2
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I think they are just covering their aZZ
normally I remove as much fluid as I can out of the master cylinder with a little syringe from the pharmacy (free)
then push about a Qt through the lines...that's plenty - just eyeball each one to be about a 3/4 cup - that saves you enough to end up with the reservoir full
normally I remove as much fluid as I can out of the master cylinder with a little syringe from the pharmacy (free)
then push about a Qt through the lines...that's plenty - just eyeball each one to be about a 3/4 cup - that saves you enough to end up with the reservoir full
#3
I think the reason for that warning is because if you mix other compatible brake fluid with SRF, it will lower the dry/wet boiling points of SRF. For flushing, I don't see a problem.
#4
Burning Brakes
As other have said suck out as much out of the master cylinder then bleed to flush out. IMO SRF is way over kill I highly doubt any of us can heat the brakes that hot unless you are running an endurance race and drive like an Andretti. You ared way better off using something cheaper and bleed more often as brake fluid is hydrophillic. The moisture can abosorb in the brake fluid in as short as a year causing earlier boiling point. Motoul has a very high boiling point and is so much cheaper.
#6
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
actually a less experienced driver can often put more heat into brakes than an experienced one
and at the wrong times
I also wonder about all these brake bleedings...I track pretty heavily and rarely bleed...and have had zero issues - I see people bleeding between runs and think...well, good idea I guess?
and at the wrong times
I also wonder about all these brake bleedings...I track pretty heavily and rarely bleed...and have had zero issues - I see people bleeding between runs and think...well, good idea I guess?
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#9
Three Wheelin'
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I am a newbie and I bet I more than I should overheat the fluid and I'd prefer being able to bleed it a little more often.
I have been very happy with the SRF, since I have it, my pedal is very progressive and no more mush.
Just the price per bottle is nuts...
I might put SRF again but man that is expensive.
I wanted to try the motul to see if that made really a difference for me or not.
I have been very happy with the SRF, since I have it, my pedal is very progressive and no more mush.
Just the price per bottle is nuts...
I might put SRF again but man that is expensive.
I wanted to try the motul to see if that made really a difference for me or not.
#12
Rennlist Member
That seems pretty reasonable but we are required to do so more often here in the Carolina's even for DE's. And as I said, SRF is the exception. As a newbie, there are too many other things to worry about besides your brakes.
#13
Rennlist Member
Philooo, if you are new and worried about cooking the brakes, then by all means stay with SRF and bleed an ounce or two as required. But with track pads to help insulate the piston, I bet you are fine.
#14
Burning Brakes
I believe newbies don't go fast enough to boil over and usually DE ared short run less than 25 minutes. However it does not matter if its SRF or ATE they all absorb moisture at similar rates. SRF just has a higher wet boiling point. Either way almost every one gets by using Blue or motoul which is a 1/4 of the cost of srf so I rather bleed more often just to be on the safe side.
#15
Rennlist Member
Jetskied, learn me up here. I thought the whole point of SRF was that it was totally non hydroscopic (spelling?) and that is why it is good for a year at the track without a flush.