Winshield Sprayer Nozzle Adjustment
#16
Drifting
For cleaning out and adjusting spray tips buy a torch tip cleaner. Find the wire that fits the hole size. Don't go overboard with cleaning as the tool is abrasive but should remove any calcium/dirt from sprayer tip. The tool cleaner tool is also great for adjusting as the wire is strong and does not bend easily. I have used these on other cars all my life. Never messed with the Porsche's as have only used the sprayers once when got bombed by what must have bee a California Condor! That time I wasn't even really sure how to turn them on.
#17
For cleaning out and adjusting spray tips buy a torch tip cleaner. Find the wire that fits the hole size. Don't go overboard with cleaning as the tool is abrasive but should remove any calcium/dirt from sprayer tip. The tool cleaner tool is also great for adjusting as the wire is strong and does not bend easily. I have used these on other cars all my life. Never messed with the Porsche's as have only used the sprayers once when got bombed by what must have bee a California Condor! That time I wasn't even really sure how to turn them on.
#18
Found this in another forum for taking of cowl...
You will need to:
1. Remove the wiper arms
2. Pop the cowl bolt covers up (small flat section next to wiper arms)
3. Remove 2 torx head bolts
4. Diconnect washer nozzle from cowl
There is a rubber seal on the leading edge of cowl.
Last time I checked the cowl was around $46.00 and the rubber seal was about $9.00.
I will try to get pictures up describing what I am talking about...latter.
You will need to:
1. Remove the wiper arms
2. Pop the cowl bolt covers up (small flat section next to wiper arms)
3. Remove 2 torx head bolts
4. Diconnect washer nozzle from cowl
There is a rubber seal on the leading edge of cowl.
Last time I checked the cowl was around $46.00 and the rubber seal was about $9.00.
I will try to get pictures up describing what I am talking about...latter.
#20
OK, update. Turns out taking out the windshield washer nozzles is embarrassingly simple. At least on my '99. I realize later models may have a different set up so there's that.
Simply remove all 3 battery covers, follow the rubber hose coming from the drivers side where the fluid is filled. This leads to a "Y" connector. 2 hoses from that lead to each nozzle. Disconnect these hoses from the "Y" connector. Then disconnect the electrical connectors from each nozzle. These electrical connectors are located on the firewall behind the battery. They just pull apart while squeezing the 2 tabs. Then just reach under the windshield cowl and push each nozzle up, there is a plastic tab which releases the nozzle. Each nozzle takes 20 seconds to remove.
So it turns out it's not removing the nozzles that is the hard part. It's determining if they can be repaired or need to be replaced.
Because each new nozzle costs just over $20 bucks I decided to experiment, worst case is I replace them both. Here's what I did and why.
Just a reminder, that problem I was having is that the nozzles were spraying the fluid to high and it was hitting the edge of the hood. And since the nozzle fits into the windshield cowl by just snapping in and does not allow for any adjustment there is really no way to reposition the nozzle base. This is unfortunately the case.
So I did exactly what the WSM says not to do with the non-adjustable nozzles. I pushed a small metal rod into the hole. I simply pulled it down as if the nozzle tip was adjustable. Turns out this worked, not because it is adjustable, but because I actually deformed the plastic by the amount of force I used. Now by "this worked" I mean it did direct the stream lower so it now misses the hood completely and hits the window perfectly in the center. It took several tries with each nozzle but by trail and error they now work. However the stream of fluid does not spread out in the fan shaped pattern any more. It is a much more centered stream but at least it hits the window perfect and all the fluid hits the window. So I'm pleased.
If your bored by now, this is all you really need to know to do it the way I did, for those fellow OCDer's, I'll continue this epic journey.
I did first try to clean the nozzles. They do come apart almost completely and to my surprise there was no dirt or calcium build up. All the plastic looked new, nothing worn or deformed. Just to check I did run CLR (calcium, lime, rust remover) through the nozzles dozens of times using a medical syringe and let them soak several hours. I'm 100% sure neither was clogged with anything. When I put them back on after just washing them they were still bad with no change.
Mine were not clogged, they seemed to be in perfect condition when I disassembled them, and yet they were spraying high. So why is this?
Here's my best guest. I believe at some time the cars which this happens on, are, or were exposed to freezing conditions. I believe water gets in the nozzles and freezes, expands, and after many cycles of this it deforms the nozzle. I bought my car a year ago from a private seller in North Carolina, it snows there. The nozzles were like this when I got it. At least I think they were. I say "think" because some owners may not realize there nozzles are hitting the hood because A.) tight a$$ clean freaks such as myself never use the nozzles and don't know there is a problem. B.) some fluid does hit the windshield and most owners may not realize they are out of adjustment. So likely mine were like this when I shipped it to Florida and at some point realized there was a problem. Even though most owners would use a non-freezing fluid, rain water can still splash into the area of the nozzles.
There are no moving parts to the nozzles and nothing to wear out, so this is what I think causes the nozzles to change there spray pattern, repeated freezing and thawing. It would be interesting to know from those of you following this (long a$$ and boring) thread if you have experienced this issue and most importantly, if your car was in freezing conditions either while you owned it or the previous owners.
Ahsai , you said your car has this issue. Any history of exposure to freezing conditions?
I will put up with the way mine spray now, but I think it's best to just replace them. I just wanted to experiment and play around with things on my car. I have no life
Simply remove all 3 battery covers, follow the rubber hose coming from the drivers side where the fluid is filled. This leads to a "Y" connector. 2 hoses from that lead to each nozzle. Disconnect these hoses from the "Y" connector. Then disconnect the electrical connectors from each nozzle. These electrical connectors are located on the firewall behind the battery. They just pull apart while squeezing the 2 tabs. Then just reach under the windshield cowl and push each nozzle up, there is a plastic tab which releases the nozzle. Each nozzle takes 20 seconds to remove.
So it turns out it's not removing the nozzles that is the hard part. It's determining if they can be repaired or need to be replaced.
Because each new nozzle costs just over $20 bucks I decided to experiment, worst case is I replace them both. Here's what I did and why.
Just a reminder, that problem I was having is that the nozzles were spraying the fluid to high and it was hitting the edge of the hood. And since the nozzle fits into the windshield cowl by just snapping in and does not allow for any adjustment there is really no way to reposition the nozzle base. This is unfortunately the case.
So I did exactly what the WSM says not to do with the non-adjustable nozzles. I pushed a small metal rod into the hole. I simply pulled it down as if the nozzle tip was adjustable. Turns out this worked, not because it is adjustable, but because I actually deformed the plastic by the amount of force I used. Now by "this worked" I mean it did direct the stream lower so it now misses the hood completely and hits the window perfectly in the center. It took several tries with each nozzle but by trail and error they now work. However the stream of fluid does not spread out in the fan shaped pattern any more. It is a much more centered stream but at least it hits the window perfect and all the fluid hits the window. So I'm pleased.
If your bored by now, this is all you really need to know to do it the way I did, for those fellow OCDer's, I'll continue this epic journey.
I did first try to clean the nozzles. They do come apart almost completely and to my surprise there was no dirt or calcium build up. All the plastic looked new, nothing worn or deformed. Just to check I did run CLR (calcium, lime, rust remover) through the nozzles dozens of times using a medical syringe and let them soak several hours. I'm 100% sure neither was clogged with anything. When I put them back on after just washing them they were still bad with no change.
Mine were not clogged, they seemed to be in perfect condition when I disassembled them, and yet they were spraying high. So why is this?
Here's my best guest. I believe at some time the cars which this happens on, are, or were exposed to freezing conditions. I believe water gets in the nozzles and freezes, expands, and after many cycles of this it deforms the nozzle. I bought my car a year ago from a private seller in North Carolina, it snows there. The nozzles were like this when I got it. At least I think they were. I say "think" because some owners may not realize there nozzles are hitting the hood because A.) tight a$$ clean freaks such as myself never use the nozzles and don't know there is a problem. B.) some fluid does hit the windshield and most owners may not realize they are out of adjustment. So likely mine were like this when I shipped it to Florida and at some point realized there was a problem. Even though most owners would use a non-freezing fluid, rain water can still splash into the area of the nozzles.
There are no moving parts to the nozzles and nothing to wear out, so this is what I think causes the nozzles to change there spray pattern, repeated freezing and thawing. It would be interesting to know from those of you following this (long a$$ and boring) thread if you have experienced this issue and most importantly, if your car was in freezing conditions either while you owned it or the previous owners.
Ahsai , you said your car has this issue. Any history of exposure to freezing conditions?
I will put up with the way mine spray now, but I think it's best to just replace them. I just wanted to experiment and play around with things on my car. I have no life
#22
Thanks for sharing your findings and everything was what I expected except the easy removal part. Mine may be harder but I really haven't spent much time looking around to see how to remove then.
Your feezing theory is interesting. I can't recall my car has ever been in freezing temp though. Most likely not but it's possible I just dont remember it (e.g., parked outside at night in winter time).
Your feezing theory is interesting. I can't recall my car has ever been in freezing temp though. Most likely not but it's possible I just dont remember it (e.g., parked outside at night in winter time).
#23
Just wanted to see it thru...and share.
I also discovered that the adjustable ones were used in the boxster from their start and used up until the 1998 MY. Then in 1999 they discontinued the use of the adjustable ones and went to the non's for the both the boxster and the 1999 996's.
I believe the adjustable ones will fit 1999 and up 996's if you can find any. Most sellers show the part number but indicate that they were discontinued and no longer available.
I'm 50, stopped working when I was 42, because I could. Lots of time on my hands and a big reason I bought this 1999 C2 cab. was as a hobby. I love when it's 100% sorted, but when something breaks I enjoy learning more about it and how it's put together and the challenge of sorting it out on mine own.
Dead horse beat.....
I also discovered that the adjustable ones were used in the boxster from their start and used up until the 1998 MY. Then in 1999 they discontinued the use of the adjustable ones and went to the non's for the both the boxster and the 1999 996's.
I believe the adjustable ones will fit 1999 and up 996's if you can find any. Most sellers show the part number but indicate that they were discontinued and no longer available.
I'm 50, stopped working when I was 42, because I could. Lots of time on my hands and a big reason I bought this 1999 C2 cab. was as a hobby. I love when it's 100% sorted, but when something breaks I enjoy learning more about it and how it's put together and the challenge of sorting it out on mine own.
Dead horse beat.....
#24
Rennlist Member
#25
adjustable nozzles available here http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=904-10 $24.16 ea.
Thanks for the heads up. I'll report back.
FYI, I've called 4 parts suppliers that show them as available on their web site already, only to find out that they are not.
#26
Rennlist Member
I called Auto Atlanta and they are not sure they have these since they were discontinued. He is calling Porsche and finding out. If they are available, I asked him to verify that they will fit in cars that came with the non's.
Thanks for the heads up. I'll report back.
FYI, I've called 4 parts suppliers that show them as available on their web site already, only to find out that they are not.
Thanks for the heads up. I'll report back.
FYI, I've called 4 parts suppliers that show them as available on their web site already, only to find out that they are not.
#27
Hazet makes a took to adjust the nozzle position, and to indicate where ir should hit the windshield:
http://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/48501-MFG970.aspx
I have no idea if this is the correct tool for the adjustable Porsche nozzles, but it has worked well on my other cars w/ adjustable nozzles.
http://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/48501-MFG970.aspx
I have no idea if this is the correct tool for the adjustable Porsche nozzles, but it has worked well on my other cars w/ adjustable nozzles.