wwest

Since there is NO exacting definition of "Bi-Xenon" most of us assume that an HID "system" that functions in both modes meets the definition. Wherein the HID bulb provides a differing light output pattern high beam vs low beam mode.

Almost all PROJECTOR lense type Bi-xenon HID systems use a halogen bulb as fill-in in high beam mode. That's because the projector lense provides a fairly tightly focus beam pattern, "pencil" beam, and thus the halogen is required for high beam light pattern enhancement.....scattter.

alpine003

I agree with the above however, I think the confusion lies in the fact that Porsches(at least mk1) uses both halogen light AND HID lights for the high beams at the same time at night.

Most of the cars I've driven that had BiXenons do not behave this way with only the HID portion serving up the high beam lighting if your lights are already in the on position.

RF5BPilot

Bi-xenon in the 996 uses a single bulb for both high and low beams. The separate halogen high beam is activated when you pull back on the headlight stalk to flash your lights. They did that because the xenon won't fire up fast enough. If the headlamps are on and you push the hedlamp stalk forward, the motor assembly moves the bulb into high position.

Bi-xenon was adopted as a name meaning that the xenon works for both high and low through the motor assembly. This is not a secret...right there in the 996 literature.

Dunkwho

Any updates on this thread? I'm interested to learn about switching my litronics to a higher output version, I've never been impressed with them. If they're 35w and there's a direct swap out 55w option then that might be the trick for me.

I had a quick look this morning in the dark on my late 2003 C4S cab (UK 53 plate), when I push the stick forward for fulls I get the yellow tinge of the halogens coming on just as I do if I pull back for a full beam flash.

Capt. Obvious

I got sidetracked the other weekend and wasn't able to do the How-To thread I was planning to make. Hopefully I'll be able to do it this weekend.

petonic

We're still interested in the thread, Capt, so here's hoping that you don't have any other honey-dews except for the much awaited writeup.

TomF

socalgt3

Subscribed for the diy

Capt. Obvious

Sorry, life keeps getting in the way. Hopefully I'll be able to do it this weekend.

Mark I

While awaiting the highly anticipated DIY conversion from 35w to 55w ballasts from the Captain, a couple of questions/thoughts. The OEM ballasts (like the aftermarket ones) have a standardized 12v power supply connector. But, the high voltage connector to the bulb is hardwired internally to the ballast. So the question is, how would one get that cable out of the sqaure plastic cover it passes through at the housing or the replacement ballast cable back through it? It looks like maybe the bulb connector for the original disassembles, but the connectors from the replacement (also standard) look too large to fit through the opening. I'm sure it's all easily doable by cutting the plastic cover, but I think most would like to avoid that. Images below (lifted from the internet) show the parts discussed.

BAD.TAG

Any updates?

In theory this should be possible, they are both run off of a 12v system so the ballast/ignitor would be getting the same amount of power. It would just be supplying more to the bulb.

Mark I

Did it last week. Here's how.
You will need: 1) New ballast set (I used a full thickness one - the slim ones have the igniter in the cable; couldn't figure a place for it). 2)A set of bulb connectors. 3) Set of 55W D2S bulbs 4) Small sections of 1/8" aluminum and 1/8" rubber (dimensions below) 5) Four 6x32x1/2" panhead screws and a 6x32 tap.
6) Soldering pen & solder 7) Drill press or drill & bits up to 3/8" 8) Heatshrink wire insulation 9) Super glue
10) A free evening and flat work surface.

Remove the ballast and rear cover. Start with the two phillips and one torx screw. Depress the two clips that secure the cover; it will then unhinge to remove. You will have to remove the connector from bulb and the power connector to the ballast. To remove the ballast from the rear cover, you have to release the plastic wire cover from the housing. Press two of clips on the same corner first (not ones opposite one another). Note the length of the high voltage bulb connector. You can set the original ballast aside.

Cut two pieces of aluminum that will replace the cable cover (pretty sure it's 1 3/4" x 1 3/8"). File or grind away the corners so they will fit in the rear housing cover you removed. Cut rubber material the same size. Lightly sand the aluminum and attach the rubber to it with super glue. Drill a 3/8" hole through the center. Cut two 1" pieces of rubber with a 3/8" hole in the center and glue to the opposite surface, aligned with the hole on the center. Drill two small holes in the part you have made on opposite corners just large enough for the 6x32 screws to pass through and with enough space for the screws to clear the seating surface of the rear housing. OK, done with that - on to the wiring.

You will be cutting the amp connectors off of both the ballast and the bulb connectors. But, before you do, some important points. Note which wires connected to one another; the colors are not standard. Make sure that you cut the wires so that when you make your connections, the splices are not side by side and staggerd at least 1/2". Make the cuts so that the ultimate length will approximate the original and the splice joint will be inside the housing.

With those points in mind, cut the wires and strip the ends to prepare for soldering the connections. Before soldering the wires, pass the cable from the ballast through your plate - it should fit snuggly in the rubber. Be sure to also have your heatshrink insulation positioned over your wires and the outside cover ready to use once the connections are made. Solder the connections, position and activate the heatshrink.

Cut two small pieces of aluminum appx. 3/8" x 1/2". Drill and tap one end 6x32. These will be the tabs that hold the cable plate you made in position. Reassemble everything.

FInal notes. Your own ingenuity may provide improvements to this plan. Sturdy plastic might work in place of the aluminum. I used no-name ballasts and bulbs (5000k) which produced great results that looked like the factory color, just brighter.

BAD.TAG

Mark, thanks for the reply. I think I can get the jist of your procedure, but more importantly you proved that the 55W conversion does work with (I assume) no negative side effects, warning bulbs etc...

If you have a chance to post an after shot or even better a before/after shot please do.

Thanks for confirming my suspicions

Mark I

Sorry I didn't take pictures, I was sort of feeling my way through as I went. I'll pull one of the lights out and get some shots first chance I have. There are no error codes, but I don't think the car senses or reports such things. There are no negative effects now or expected. Although the output is brighter, the cutoffs prevent interference with other drivers. I've read that the 55W systems can be hotter, but I stepped up from 35W to a 55W setup in another (nonP) car with plasic housings a while back with no problems.

socalgt3

Mark I, thank you for the great write-up. Can you tell us where you got the generic ballasts and bulbs?