Valve Tick Upon Start-Up?
12-14-2012, 02:14 PM
#16
Parts Specialist
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does yours change with ambiant temps?
You can ship cars inside airplanes for about the same cost if you factor in time
lets start an oil thread - what oil are you running
You can ship cars inside airplanes for about the same cost if you factor in time
lets start an oil thread - what oil are you running
12-14-2012, 03:24 PM
#17
Race Director
How long is too long? I hear a ticking sound at startup, but once the car gets to temp, it goes away. Certainly lasts for more than a few seconds. It is my DD (03 C2) so it never sits too long. Oil change at 5k miles (currently 2400 miles since last change). Oil pressure always good. No other issues. Short of flat bedding the car to Japan, should my Indy have a look?
But there are exceptions of course, there always are.
A start up tick that lasts until the engine is warm is sometimes an exhaust leak. The crack/split is open when the exhaust system is cold but as it heats up this closes down.
Yet another is a converter is a bit loose in its housing and as it gets up to temp (600C+) it stops rattling.
There other possible explanations which I won't go into.
Really though, diagnosing noises without being at the car is just guesswork.
My advice is to get the car to your favorite/trusted indy and describe to him the circumstances under which the noise appears.
If it takes two days of lack of use sitting out side then so be it. Arrange then to leave the car. The indy if he's good will arrange to get the car on a lift with the noise present and pinpoint where the noise is coming from. He may resort to using a mechanic's stethoscope.
Once the location of the noise is know, or other possible locations eliminated at least, what to do next is easier to decide, and more likely to be the right decision.
No need to flat bed the car to Japan unless your indy is there.
12-14-2012, 06:15 PM
#18
Rat Balls
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A start up ticking that lasts until the engine is warm is generally not due to lifter/chain tensioner bleed down or oil bleed down in general. These things juice up in just no time at all.
But there are exceptions of course, there always are.
A start up tick that lasts until the engine is warm is sometimes an exhaust leak. The crack/split is open when the exhaust system is cold but as it heats up this closes down.
Yet another is a converter is a bit loose in its housing and as it gets up to temp (600C+) it stops rattling.
There other possible explanations which I won't go into.
Really though, diagnosing noises without being at the car is just guesswork.
My advice is to get the car to your favorite/trusted indy and describe to him the circumstances under which the noise appears.
If it takes two days of lack of use sitting out side then so be it. Arrange then to leave the car. The indy if he's good will arrange to get the car on a lift with the noise present and pinpoint where the noise is coming from. He may resort to using a mechanic's stethoscope.
Once the location of the noise is know, or other possible locations eliminated at least, what to do next is easier to decide, and more likely to be the right decision.
No need to flat bed the car to Japan unless your indy is there.
But there are exceptions of course, there always are.
A start up tick that lasts until the engine is warm is sometimes an exhaust leak. The crack/split is open when the exhaust system is cold but as it heats up this closes down.
Yet another is a converter is a bit loose in its housing and as it gets up to temp (600C+) it stops rattling.
There other possible explanations which I won't go into.
Really though, diagnosing noises without being at the car is just guesswork.
My advice is to get the car to your favorite/trusted indy and describe to him the circumstances under which the noise appears.
If it takes two days of lack of use sitting out side then so be it. Arrange then to leave the car. The indy if he's good will arrange to get the car on a lift with the noise present and pinpoint where the noise is coming from. He may resort to using a mechanic's stethoscope.
Once the location of the noise is know, or other possible locations eliminated at least, what to do next is easier to decide, and more likely to be the right decision.
No need to flat bed the car to Japan unless your indy is there.
12-15-2012, 11:09 AM
#22
Next.......
12-15-2012, 12:21 PM
#24
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and DONT buy cheap oil - your oil should cost $7-10/qt - I wont tell you which one to buy - as that would constitute an oil thread - but get one that someone here says they use - not Mobil 1
12-15-2012, 05:09 PM
#26
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. Which oil will really do the job lubricating her?
12-15-2012, 05:22 PM
#27
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according to your signature you dont even have an M96 - TROLL!!
that is silly for your indy to say such a thing - actually it's stupid - out and out right stupid
12-16-2012, 01:22 PM
#30
Rennlist Member
and thus why a thinner oil is what is in the cars. Thicker oil pumps slower. thinner oil can get to the heads faster. mine ticks a bit too. But only when it site for more than 3-4 days
