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Old 12-14-2012, 09:38 PM
  #31  
BiteEmNBeatEm
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they are ductile iron sleeves. ironicaly they are not realy sleeves /liners because they remove the whole factory cylinder and replace it with these new cylinders. I went with them over the LA sleeves because they had a better way prevent the cylinders from walking under higher boost with that integraded semi closed deck design and they step the bottoms into the block to prevent sinking as sleeve.
I'll pm you a round about cost.
Old 12-15-2012, 08:50 AM
  #32  
dcdrechsel
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The approach makes sense with a talented machine shop .Are you the first or have they done this before ?
Dave
Old 12-15-2012, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by dcdrechsel
The approach makes sense with a talented machine shop .Are you the first or have they done this before ?
Dave
Nope, there are others among us

one is making 770+ whp with a twin 6162 turbos thats clames of made right around 1000 with larger turbos but with awful lag.

GEM guarantees the sleeves not to crack up to 1500hp and guarantees them never to sink. So thats fixes one problem, the rods are a 4340 chrome moly forging, x beam with arp2000 bolts.

my fears will be detonation, and how high i can take the manifold pressure and well if factory head gaskets will hold.

the e85 fuel whill help dramaticaly with detonation since it has a rate octane of 110 which is 2.85ga vs 9.00-16.00vp race fuel and my gas stations nearby me carry e85. the ceramic coated piston tops will also help reduce any hot spots on the pistons to help reduce detonation. The head gaskets are factory but from porsche there pretty nice and triple layered. The arp2000 head studs will help but it may be trial and error to see what can take. The other security measure is the copper oring gasket that were going to run on the cylinders.

Last edited by BiteEmNBeatEm; 12-22-2012 at 04:38 AM.
Old 12-15-2012, 10:28 AM
  #34  
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it seems to be working for 1000+ hp GTR's lol
not that I am comparing the two but here is a picture a a r35 block with similar sleeves/cylinders, theses are MID darton versions


Old 12-15-2012, 11:42 AM
  #35  
Imo000
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Who will be tunning it and how?
Old 12-15-2012, 11:50 AM
  #36  
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Can you pm me a cost as well?
Old 12-15-2012, 12:12 PM
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dcdrechsel
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Impressive and well thought out .Since others have done it appears the heads can handle the increased loads and partial decking .Does the builder do anything special to the heads ?I know they crack -mine did and it was not water pump related .
Old 12-15-2012, 12:50 PM
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Todd Kinighton at Protomotive is going to be doing the tune. I should be getting my injectors that he recomended for my e-85 setup from his this comming week.

trendy996 - I was pretty vauge with pricing as I am not not one who charges and its all being done through my builder. But GEM charges between 1500-2000plus for just sleeving; BUT you can have them order up custom pistons and have them do a final bore, you can have them step deck it, and o-ring groves and so forth.
Best bet is just call up Golden Eagle and get a quote or if you are not building your own engine have your builder call them up as he can provide more exact specs for what you want.

dcdrechsel - my head cracked as well but it wasn't a water pump failure but it was because of of a hot spot that seems to be the problem on all of these cars. is aways a crack on the same exact spot. most times its a piece of the water pump impeller that creates a blockage and then the hotspot on the head which in turn leads to a cracked head.
the 997 waterpump is an upgrade along with lower t-stat
big key is replace the waterpump regularly

Last edited by BiteEmNBeatEm; 12-15-2012 at 01:09 PM.
Old 12-15-2012, 04:13 PM
  #39  
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Ok, this engine is built by someone else and you are the customer?
Old 12-15-2012, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Imo000
Ok, this engine is built by someone else and you are the customer?

Originally Posted by BiteEmNBeatEm
Halik, my engine builder is Jason at UFO but we have GEM doing the machine work on the cylinders and I don't recall the machine shop who is doing the crank but that is all they do is weld/grind crankshafts. I was looking for a 3.6 factory crank with the crank cage because it will work in my 3.4 but we ended up just measuring out another 3.6 stroke and and went just slightly longer with the new crank measurments. We are having to use the 3.6 length rods and we went with Pauter rods. The facotry pistons were scanned and we just adjusted the wrist pin height acordingly and are going with a 9.0:1 CR.

BTY: i did not nor will not cut scoops since im running air-water IC.



BINGO
You don't want me building anything unless its with legos or construction paper LOL
Old 12-18-2012, 11:01 PM
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just got my injectors from Todd Knighton


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Old 12-19-2012, 12:24 AM
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Todd K. one of the only tuner I would consider....
Old 12-20-2012, 03:23 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by BiteEmNBeatEm
Its big, theres no argument there. The hta gt37944 is actualy a 6766 if you go by thoes measurments. Its a 67.5mm inducer and 94mm exducer hot side

the t4 60-1 is a 64.5mm inducer 75mm exducer w/ a 1.00ar hot side.

the hta gt3788r is sized out as a 6466.

I'm still up in the air, but it will be one of the two HTA gt3794r or gt3788r. I'm always open to any ones opinions and advice but high hp C2 single turbo projects are pretty much unsailed waters so its just trial and error (hopfuly more try less error)
You should be able to spool that turbo quickly. The GT series is a very fast spooling turbo. Have you thought about thermal coating the exhaust prior to the turbo to help with the spool?

I ran a GT35R82 on my 2.5L Subaru and it was fully spooled at 4200rpm and was beyond stock power levels on it's way up to being spooled. So a GT37 should be fine on a 3.4L. 500whp on e85 should be a walk in the park as well (I would expect far more).

My security won't let me open the first page of the thread. What supporting mods are you running with the turbo? Changing cams? Headwork?

What do you plan on doing for the trans? Or do think the M96.00 can handle the power?
Old 12-20-2012, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by white out
You should be able to spool that turbo quickly. The GT series is a very fast spooling turbo. Have you thought about thermal coating the exhaust prior to the turbo to help with the spool?

I ran a GT35R82 on my 2.5L Subaru and it was fully spooled at 4200rpm and was beyond stock power levels on it's way up to being spooled. So a GT37 should be fine on a 3.4L. 500whp on e85 should be a walk in the park as well (I would expect far more).

My security won't let me open the first page of the thread. What supporting mods are you running with the turbo? Changing cams? Headwork?

What do you plan on doing for the trans? Or do think the M96.00 can handle the power?
3.4 engine getting iron ductile sleeves w/ 99mm bore
3.4 crank (weldup/grind stroke slightly longer than the 3.6 996 crank shaft)
(the two mods above bring my engine from 3.4 to 3.9)
3.6 pauter rods
heads are getting 3 angle valve job with port and polish
EBS springs
Dual pump & Sugre tank fuel system for e85
single turbo HTA GT3794r
ARP2000 Head Studs
ARP2000 Main Bolts
Arias Pistons Ceramic Coated tops, w/ molly coated skirts 9.0:1, 99mm
camshaft (webcam custom grind)
clutch (twin metalic disc aasco/tilton)
Stock TB 74mm or do the ipd plenum with a 997 GT3 TB 82mm
x51 intake manifolds
Old 12-20-2012, 12:55 PM
  #45  
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I like the precision billet wheel/air cooled/ball bearing turbos. I feel like they would be a better performer for the 3.4l


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