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metal shavings in the sump pan

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Old 12-05-2012, 02:59 PM
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trendy996
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It was a replacement engine from Porsche. It isn't the original engine.

I'll try to soak them in a solution and get some more pictures.

From talking to Audi techs they indicated to me it doesn't take much blockage at the pickup to starve the pump. I'd say it was covering a 1/6th to a 1/5th of the pickup. It was more so around the edge line which seems to be tappered which would create a decent amount of blockage. A lot of it was at the bottom of the pan. I'm only getting low oil pressure when it reaches opperating temps. Low meaning under 0 at idle but, then raises to 1 under throttle. Oil light does not come on untill at a stop at idle. So I'm thinking once the oil reaches temps the pieces flow around a lot more freely and cause the blockage to increase untill the oil cools and they resettle at the bottom.
Old 12-05-2012, 03:04 PM
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Byprodriver
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Originally Posted by perryinva
Well that sure ain't bearing or rod wear. Looks more like machining bits from the original build, or possible pieces of a brass metal gasket. Do any of the oil pumps use that type gasket, I wonder?
Oil pumps use O-rings only.
Old 12-05-2012, 03:09 PM
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philooo
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Many have said in the past that you cannot diagnose anything if that is the first time you remove the oil pan as many things are there since the engine build.

Only way is to put it back, drive a little and remove it again to see if more debris are found again.
Old 12-05-2012, 03:33 PM
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Macster
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Originally Posted by trendy996
It was a replacement engine from Porsche. It isn't the original engine.

I'll try to soak them in a solution and get some more pictures.

From talking to Audi techs they indicated to me it doesn't take much blockage at the pickup to starve the pump. I'd say it was covering a 1/6th to a 1/5th of the pickup. It was more so around the edge line which seems to be tappered which would create a decent amount of blockage. A lot of it was at the bottom of the pan. I'm only getting low oil pressure when it reaches opperating temps. Low meaning under 0 at idle but, then raises to 1 under throttle. Oil light does not come on untill at a stop at idle. So I'm thinking once the oil reaches temps the pieces flow around a lot more freely and cause the blockage to increase untill the oil cools and they resettle at the bottom.
If the oil pump intake screen was getting blocked by engine oil sump debris at hot idle enough to trigger a low oil pressure light at idle at higher engine speeds the low oil pressure light wouldn't come on before the engine went boom.

You need to be sure the oil pressure gage you are relying upon is ok along with the sender/sensor.

If the oil pressure sensor/sender is bad this could result in a spurious oil pressure warning light and of course a wrong oil pressure reading. Likely this is on purpose because better to have the failing sensor/sender send a spurious low oil pressure warning when the oil pressure is really ok rather than keep on signaling 4.5 or 5 or even 6.0 bar when the oil pressure sensor/sender is failing.

Anyhow, while engine oil sumps can hold a surprising amount of metal debris -- a lot of it from when the engine was first started at the factory -- if (big if) the low oil pressure is a real condition and not arising from some sensor/sender malfunction, that your engine has low oil pressure at idle suggests the metal debris, the "copper" shavings, is bearing material and the engine is in need of some serious attention, internally, and without delay.

I'd not run the engine any more than you have to as you confirm the true oil pressure situation and then if you find the oil pressure truly low that's it.

Engine off until it gets fired up after a bottom end rebuild.
Old 12-05-2012, 05:03 PM
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trendy996
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sender in new. I'll hok a guage to it to confirm
Old 12-05-2012, 05:12 PM
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A new sender could still be bad out of the box. That's part of the reason there's a new car warranty and a 2 year parts warranty on repairs.



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