Porsche Specialty Tools
11-11-2012, 08:32 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Porsche Specialty Tools
Does anyone have a good comprehensive list with descriptions, measurements, specs, etc. of mandatory 996 engine/trans tools? I don't mean the tools in the tool pouch. I mean the various crank/camshaft locks, braces, etc. mentioned in the service manual. I don't mind doing the research myself but I was hoping someone had a good list. I would like to compile a list of the most needed and or unusual more expensive ones for engine disassembly / repair work, and the most common fixes (RMS, clutch, IMSB, etc).
I already own Many $$$ of hand and air tools, seal / bearing pullers / installers, presses, etc. but most are US standard, metric, and more towards the 4WD / off-road type vehicle. No special German tools except my Dads Mercedes tools.
My plan is to build / fabricate the more expensive specialty tools and buy the cheaper ones. I would be willing to share / loan with other paying forum members here and at renntech. I would think we can all trust each other to return them or pass them to the next member needing them. I don't plan on rebuilding my engine soon but I cant wait to get in there and replace the clutch, RMS if needed, and IMSB retrofit. The Porsche engine is really interesting and not that difficult to understand if you have a basic understanding of the ICE. I guess I enjoy working on my car as much as driving it.
What's really interesting is the service manual considers the IMSB to be a service item you should change every 30,000 to 50,000 miles. Wow!
Here's my clean engine "after" photo.
I already own Many $$$ of hand and air tools, seal / bearing pullers / installers, presses, etc. but most are US standard, metric, and more towards the 4WD / off-road type vehicle. No special German tools except my Dads Mercedes tools.
My plan is to build / fabricate the more expensive specialty tools and buy the cheaper ones. I would be willing to share / loan with other paying forum members here and at renntech. I would think we can all trust each other to return them or pass them to the next member needing them. I don't plan on rebuilding my engine soon but I cant wait to get in there and replace the clutch, RMS if needed, and IMSB retrofit. The Porsche engine is really interesting and not that difficult to understand if you have a basic understanding of the ICE. I guess I enjoy working on my car as much as driving it.
What's really interesting is the service manual considers the IMSB to be a service item you should change every 30,000 to 50,000 miles. Wow!
Here's my clean engine "after" photo.
Last edited by KrazyK; 11-20-2014 at 06:24 PM.
11-17-2012, 12:51 AM
#3
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Hey K,
Last year at this time I was thinking like you. A few engine rattles in my '01 996 had me soing some serious thinking about checking things out.
Here's a short spin on my experience.
First things first. I decided to remove the engine rather than work on it in place. This I did not regret.
Engine removal is fairly simple, not counting the a/c compressor removal. Wayne Greham, http://www.oz951.com/public/enginedrop.htm details the proceedure nicely. Unfortunately his website is down until January 2013.
Some advise regarding engine removal:
- Disconnect the battery!
- Remove the rear bumper.
- Raise the car as high as is practical for you. I used 10T jack stands for the rear and 5T stands at the front.
- The clutch slave cylinder can be a pain. My advise is to leave it on the bell housing and remove the pipe. You'll lose the fluid of course and you'll have to bleed it on installation but I speak from experience. I used a 'crow foot' wrench to remove the pipe fitting.
- Have some blocks and timbers handy. You'll need them to get the height.
- I used a motorcycle jack paired with a transmission jack to drop the engine and transaxle. I bought the transmission jack from Harbor Freight. The motorcycle jack was a Craigslist find.
Once the assembly is on your shop floor it's easy to remove the transmission.
To come in the next episode...
Cheers,
PL
Last year at this time I was thinking like you. A few engine rattles in my '01 996 had me soing some serious thinking about checking things out.
Here's a short spin on my experience.
First things first. I decided to remove the engine rather than work on it in place. This I did not regret.
Engine removal is fairly simple, not counting the a/c compressor removal. Wayne Greham, http://www.oz951.com/public/enginedrop.htm details the proceedure nicely. Unfortunately his website is down until January 2013.
Some advise regarding engine removal:
- Disconnect the battery!
- Remove the rear bumper.
- Raise the car as high as is practical for you. I used 10T jack stands for the rear and 5T stands at the front.
- The clutch slave cylinder can be a pain. My advise is to leave it on the bell housing and remove the pipe. You'll lose the fluid of course and you'll have to bleed it on installation but I speak from experience. I used a 'crow foot' wrench to remove the pipe fitting.
- Have some blocks and timbers handy. You'll need them to get the height.
- I used a motorcycle jack paired with a transmission jack to drop the engine and transaxle. I bought the transmission jack from Harbor Freight. The motorcycle jack was a Craigslist find.
Once the assembly is on your shop floor it's easy to remove the transmission.
To come in the next episode...
Cheers,
PL
11-17-2012, 01:23 AM
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
Dude, thats awesome and exaclty what I want to do. I have over 50K miles so I may need a clutch soon. I plan to do the RMS, IMSB too. While mine is out like that I would detail the heck out of that engine. Great job.
11-17-2012, 02:18 AM
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The saga of the 'STUD ZAPPER'
OK, she's on the floor.
First, you'll want to make sure that you tape up fluid lines and plug open orifices to make sure you don't get things contaminated.
Now for the fun part. The transmission should be pretty easy to separate, but you have to keep in mind that after ten years of exposure there may be some rust on the clutch splines and the pilot bearing. Here are a few things to keep in mind as you go.
-Get a box of ziplock bags and a marker pen. Put each part or set of parts in a bag and identify it. Take care that you identify each bolt from the bellhousing as they are different lengths.
-With the bellhousing bolts removed you can start to separate the transaxle from the engine. Take your time. Tap, wiggle, pry and shake. It'll come.
-At this point I put the transmission aside. Clutch removal is easy, just ,make sure you don't loose one of the dowels that locate the pressure plate to the flywheel. One of mine was loose and I didn't realize it had dropped out until I saw it on the floor at which point I tapped it back in to flywheel using a little locktite.
-Flywheel removal was the next challenge. I didn't have the toothed fixture as shown in the service manual so I had to compromise. A block of wood fastened by a bellhousing bolt with a sturdy steel strap attached did the trick. (See pic)
-Once the flywheel is removed you can think about retrofitting the IMS bearing. I won't go into details about that as it's all been said before. Just make sure you lock the crank at TDC before you start. Mine being an '01 it wasn't clear if it was single or dual row so I open it up before ordering the kit from LN Engineering. It was a dual row and turning smoothly.
-Although my RMS wasn't leaking I wanted to replace it of course. Realizing that an important aspect of fitting the RMS is to have the axis of the seal true to the crank I made a tool to suit. I used a PVC conduit fitting, it was an adapter, PVC to NPT thread, 3" I think. It's about 75mm ID on the inner step and 88 mm ID on the outer. I trued it up on a lathe. (See pic)
-The next up was camshaft removal. Easier said than done. The exhaust manifold needed removing which was a real challenge. She's seen some salt in her life, starting out in Minneapolis, and eventually ending up in Vancouver. The manifold bolts were rusty and tight. My first attempt was a bit of a disaster as I ended up breaking four of the six bolts. With a sinking heart I decided to lay of for a few days and review my options. Well as they say, time heals all wounds, and I was ready to go again. I considered taking it in to a machine shop specializing in cylinder heads. They advised me that it would be 'no problem' drilling out the bolts. I wasn't so sure, and so started a plan of attack. I decided that the way to go was to make a drill guide. The idea was to make a drill guide per: linkhttp://www.kda132.com/Technical/Sect...t/exhaust.html
I started on this, and purchased a set of left hand drill bits. In the mean time I stumbled on a comment in a forum where someone suggested that rusty studs may be loosened by 'zapping' them with a high current from a truck battery by way of jumper cables. Since my bolts had broken with enough 'meat' on them to weld a nut on to, this sounded like a reasonable bet and a lot less work than the drill guide.
I had a microwave oven transformer, set aside for a spot welder that I never got around to making. So I removed the secondary winding and wrapped two turns of 4/0 battery in its place. On test I measured something like 950 amps into a short circuit. So the 'Stud Zapper' was born. I fitted the cable with lugs made from 1/2" copper pipe.
Nuts were then welded on to the broken studs. One zapper cable was bolted to the cylinder head, the other clamped on to the nut with vice grips. Power was applied. A satisfying crackle and wisp of smoke came from the stud. After a suitable dose of electric medicine the patient was given a good sharp rap with a hammer and drift, then unscrewed with no drama.
Camshaft removal to follow...
OK, she's on the floor.
First, you'll want to make sure that you tape up fluid lines and plug open orifices to make sure you don't get things contaminated.
Now for the fun part. The transmission should be pretty easy to separate, but you have to keep in mind that after ten years of exposure there may be some rust on the clutch splines and the pilot bearing. Here are a few things to keep in mind as you go.
-Get a box of ziplock bags and a marker pen. Put each part or set of parts in a bag and identify it. Take care that you identify each bolt from the bellhousing as they are different lengths.
-With the bellhousing bolts removed you can start to separate the transaxle from the engine. Take your time. Tap, wiggle, pry and shake. It'll come.
-At this point I put the transmission aside. Clutch removal is easy, just ,make sure you don't loose one of the dowels that locate the pressure plate to the flywheel. One of mine was loose and I didn't realize it had dropped out until I saw it on the floor at which point I tapped it back in to flywheel using a little locktite.
-Flywheel removal was the next challenge. I didn't have the toothed fixture as shown in the service manual so I had to compromise. A block of wood fastened by a bellhousing bolt with a sturdy steel strap attached did the trick. (See pic)
-Once the flywheel is removed you can think about retrofitting the IMS bearing. I won't go into details about that as it's all been said before. Just make sure you lock the crank at TDC before you start. Mine being an '01 it wasn't clear if it was single or dual row so I open it up before ordering the kit from LN Engineering. It was a dual row and turning smoothly.
-Although my RMS wasn't leaking I wanted to replace it of course. Realizing that an important aspect of fitting the RMS is to have the axis of the seal true to the crank I made a tool to suit. I used a PVC conduit fitting, it was an adapter, PVC to NPT thread, 3" I think. It's about 75mm ID on the inner step and 88 mm ID on the outer. I trued it up on a lathe. (See pic)
-The next up was camshaft removal. Easier said than done. The exhaust manifold needed removing which was a real challenge. She's seen some salt in her life, starting out in Minneapolis, and eventually ending up in Vancouver. The manifold bolts were rusty and tight. My first attempt was a bit of a disaster as I ended up breaking four of the six bolts. With a sinking heart I decided to lay of for a few days and review my options. Well as they say, time heals all wounds, and I was ready to go again. I considered taking it in to a machine shop specializing in cylinder heads. They advised me that it would be 'no problem' drilling out the bolts. I wasn't so sure, and so started a plan of attack. I decided that the way to go was to make a drill guide. The idea was to make a drill guide per: linkhttp://www.kda132.com/Technical/Sect...t/exhaust.html
I started on this, and purchased a set of left hand drill bits. In the mean time I stumbled on a comment in a forum where someone suggested that rusty studs may be loosened by 'zapping' them with a high current from a truck battery by way of jumper cables. Since my bolts had broken with enough 'meat' on them to weld a nut on to, this sounded like a reasonable bet and a lot less work than the drill guide.
I had a microwave oven transformer, set aside for a spot welder that I never got around to making. So I removed the secondary winding and wrapped two turns of 4/0 battery in its place. On test I measured something like 950 amps into a short circuit. So the 'Stud Zapper' was born. I fitted the cable with lugs made from 1/2" copper pipe.
Nuts were then welded on to the broken studs. One zapper cable was bolted to the cylinder head, the other clamped on to the nut with vice grips. Power was applied. A satisfying crackle and wisp of smoke came from the stud. After a suitable dose of electric medicine the patient was given a good sharp rap with a hammer and drift, then unscrewed with no drama.
Camshaft removal to follow...
11-17-2012, 02:58 AM
#6
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To continue the saga of the Stud Zapper...
On the second bank, the zapper was applied before applying any torque to the bolts. This time four of the six bolts came out. Again nuts were welded on and the studs re-zapped. In the end they were all safely removed.
Camshaft removal.
- Before you remove the cam covers you will need a tool to secure the back end of the camshafts. A suitable fixture was included in the IMS kit that I received from LN Engineering. See picture. Note that the tool needed a little work before it was ready for the job. The two small tabs bolted on the ends fit into the recessed end of the camshafts holding them securely. I'm not sure why LN didn't include them but I was grateful to have the tool regardless. See pic showing tool installed.
- After you have installed the cam end holding fixture, you can remove the cam cover. The next picture shows what you will see.
- You will need to remove the oil scavange pump. Mark it before taking it off so you are sure to refit it properly.
- Remove the cam chain tensioner for the bank you are working on.
- Remove the four bolts fitting the cam sprocket to the camshaft.
- At this point you should use the Porsche tool to compress the VarioCam tensioners. I don't know what the Porsche mindset was when they designed this tool, but it wasn't friendly for sure. The tool is basically a 4mm (I think) bolt with a 'Left Hand Thread'. Not the easiest thing to find. Well the good news is with a little improvising along with care and attention, you can do without it.
- Now you will need something to hold the camshafts in place before removing the near end bearing caps. There's a Porsche tool of course but again, this can be improvised quite easily. I made a set from some 3/4" douglas fir trim boards that I had laying around. I bought some m6 ready rod and cut it to length for fasteners. See Pics
- Prepare a clean table to place the camshaft/tension assembly.
- Now you can go ahead and remove the allen head bolts removing the Vario Cam unit, then carefully remove the near end cam bearing.
- I used a quick release clamp with plastic jaws to compress the VarioCam so the chains could be removed. See pic.
- The point of this exercise was to replace the VarioCam tensioner pads. See pic. Notice that they were close to end of life. And that would spell disaster!
Cheers,
Pete
Not sure if the pics are going to load with this post... if not they will follow.
On the second bank, the zapper was applied before applying any torque to the bolts. This time four of the six bolts came out. Again nuts were welded on and the studs re-zapped. In the end they were all safely removed.
Camshaft removal.
- Before you remove the cam covers you will need a tool to secure the back end of the camshafts. A suitable fixture was included in the IMS kit that I received from LN Engineering. See picture. Note that the tool needed a little work before it was ready for the job. The two small tabs bolted on the ends fit into the recessed end of the camshafts holding them securely. I'm not sure why LN didn't include them but I was grateful to have the tool regardless. See pic showing tool installed.
- After you have installed the cam end holding fixture, you can remove the cam cover. The next picture shows what you will see.
- You will need to remove the oil scavange pump. Mark it before taking it off so you are sure to refit it properly.
- Remove the cam chain tensioner for the bank you are working on.
- Remove the four bolts fitting the cam sprocket to the camshaft.
- At this point you should use the Porsche tool to compress the VarioCam tensioners. I don't know what the Porsche mindset was when they designed this tool, but it wasn't friendly for sure. The tool is basically a 4mm (I think) bolt with a 'Left Hand Thread'. Not the easiest thing to find. Well the good news is with a little improvising along with care and attention, you can do without it.
- Now you will need something to hold the camshafts in place before removing the near end bearing caps. There's a Porsche tool of course but again, this can be improvised quite easily. I made a set from some 3/4" douglas fir trim boards that I had laying around. I bought some m6 ready rod and cut it to length for fasteners. See Pics
- Prepare a clean table to place the camshaft/tension assembly.
- Now you can go ahead and remove the allen head bolts removing the Vario Cam unit, then carefully remove the near end cam bearing.
- I used a quick release clamp with plastic jaws to compress the VarioCam so the chains could be removed. See pic.
- The point of this exercise was to replace the VarioCam tensioner pads. See pic. Notice that they were close to end of life. And that would spell disaster!
Cheers,
Pete
Not sure if the pics are going to load with this post... if not they will follow.
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11-17-2012, 12:22 PM
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
Plain G, first I wanna say awesome pics and info. You can resize your photos to help with upload.
I wanted to ask some more details about your project. What is mileage? Symptoms if any? Any pieces in your oil filter? Was there more to this or you just wanted to do partial tear down / inspection to replace wear items? Such as RMS, IMSB, clutch kit, cam chain guides, etc.
Your homemade tools are exactly what I was talking about but I would like to build mine out of metal or alum and would be willing to share them with other members.
Plain G wish I was there man. Great job! I expect that engine/trans will be spotlessly clean before you install it.
Barn, my engine wasnt very dirty to begin with but it had that strange colored mess Porsche puts all over it. I used different types of degreasers and brushes including a toothbrush for the small areas. I also very carefully used brake cleaner on some parts.
I wanted to ask some more details about your project. What is mileage? Symptoms if any? Any pieces in your oil filter? Was there more to this or you just wanted to do partial tear down / inspection to replace wear items? Such as RMS, IMSB, clutch kit, cam chain guides, etc.
Your homemade tools are exactly what I was talking about but I would like to build mine out of metal or alum and would be willing to share them with other members.
Plain G wish I was there man. Great job! I expect that engine/trans will be spotlessly clean before you install it.
Barn, my engine wasnt very dirty to begin with but it had that strange colored mess Porsche puts all over it. I used different types of degreasers and brushes including a toothbrush for the small areas. I also very carefully used brake cleaner on some parts.
11-17-2012, 01:30 PM
#10
7th Gear
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KrazyK,
Yeah, the size of the pictures are a bit over the top. My first postings, obviously I need to figure a few things out. I'll resize in a graphics editor next time.
OK, back to basics...
- She's 2001 C2. When I started the project last winter she had 118K km on the clock. We're up to 136K now.
The symptoms...
- A noisy rattle on start up, persisting for several minutes.
- Plastic bits in the oil filter. From the VarioCam tensioner pads.
- Oil in the throttle body. My suspicion on is that this was due to plastic bits contaminating the air oil separator.
- Uneven idle and a tendency to stall when hot. The cam timing would have been off due to wear on the VarioCam tensioner pads.
- The clutch had some judder and obviously needed attention.
Other problems...
-Overheating in city traffic. I suspect that this was the root cause of the tensioner pad issue. I eventually discovered that the left rad fan was not working. I pulled the fan and figured since I had nothing to lose I would open up the motor. One brush was stuck. Just had to free it up and put a tiny drop of moly grease on the guide. I ended up adding a center rad and an electronic fan controller which has totally solved my cooling issues. That's a important topic that I'll post on sometime.
Parts changed:
- LN Engineering IMS kit
- Clutch kit
- VarioCam tensioner pads
- IMS chain tensioner
- RMS
- Transmission input shaft seal. Probably didn't need to do this and the old seal was very difficult to remove.
- Water pump. The original seemed fine but since it was apart...
- Air Oil Separator
- Clutch slave cylinder. I hadn't planned on this but messed it up when trying to get it back on. That's why I recommend leaving it on the bell housing so when you re-install it you can be sure the push rod is properly lined up.
- Thermostat
- Some hoses. I replaced the main hose from the thermostat housing. The one with a plastic T in it. Probably nothing wrong with the old one but plastic does get brittle with age.
- And I added a center rad. Got one on Ebay that included the brackets etc. Just had to buy two hoses. That and the new fan controller are probably the two most important life savers for a 996. There's always a lot of BS about which oil is best. In the it all comes down to oil temperature. If you can control your oil temp you know your oil can do its job. Keep in mind that the effectiveness of the oil cooler is related to the return water temperature from the radiators, not the temperature displayed on your temperature gauge.
Cheers
Yeah, the size of the pictures are a bit over the top. My first postings, obviously I need to figure a few things out. I'll resize in a graphics editor next time.
OK, back to basics...
- She's 2001 C2. When I started the project last winter she had 118K km on the clock. We're up to 136K now.
The symptoms...
- A noisy rattle on start up, persisting for several minutes.
- Plastic bits in the oil filter. From the VarioCam tensioner pads.
- Oil in the throttle body. My suspicion on is that this was due to plastic bits contaminating the air oil separator.
- Uneven idle and a tendency to stall when hot. The cam timing would have been off due to wear on the VarioCam tensioner pads.
- The clutch had some judder and obviously needed attention.
Other problems...
-Overheating in city traffic. I suspect that this was the root cause of the tensioner pad issue. I eventually discovered that the left rad fan was not working. I pulled the fan and figured since I had nothing to lose I would open up the motor. One brush was stuck. Just had to free it up and put a tiny drop of moly grease on the guide. I ended up adding a center rad and an electronic fan controller which has totally solved my cooling issues. That's a important topic that I'll post on sometime.
Parts changed:
- LN Engineering IMS kit
- Clutch kit
- VarioCam tensioner pads
- IMS chain tensioner
- RMS
- Transmission input shaft seal. Probably didn't need to do this and the old seal was very difficult to remove.
- Water pump. The original seemed fine but since it was apart...
- Air Oil Separator
- Clutch slave cylinder. I hadn't planned on this but messed it up when trying to get it back on. That's why I recommend leaving it on the bell housing so when you re-install it you can be sure the push rod is properly lined up.
- Thermostat
- Some hoses. I replaced the main hose from the thermostat housing. The one with a plastic T in it. Probably nothing wrong with the old one but plastic does get brittle with age.
- And I added a center rad. Got one on Ebay that included the brackets etc. Just had to buy two hoses. That and the new fan controller are probably the two most important life savers for a 996. There's always a lot of BS about which oil is best. In the it all comes down to oil temperature. If you can control your oil temp you know your oil can do its job. Keep in mind that the effectiveness of the oil cooler is related to the return water temperature from the radiators, not the temperature displayed on your temperature gauge.
Cheers
11-17-2012, 01:38 PM
#11
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks for the extra info. Please take some photos when you get it together but before you install in car (unless its too late). Photo resize is easy in MS Paint.
11-17-2012, 01:49 PM
#12
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It's been back in the car since last Feb. I do have a few more photos to post.
I'm more into 'go' than 'show'. We do a lot of highway driving with the last few kms in gravel. So much for a clean detailed engine!
Oh yeah, one more important thing to deal with are the serpentine belt idlers. Mine were all a bit dry. I didn't want to spend 300$ plus on a new set, since the bearings seemed ok. I researched suitable grease and found that 'electric motor bearing' grease is suitable. So I bought some Exxon EM grease,
popped the seals off the idler bearings, washed them out and re-greased them. So far so good with 18K km on them. I'll check them out this winter and see how they're doing.
It's getting into winter here and I've only got a few days left on my insurance. So she'll be put away 'till next April. In the time being we'll use the A6.
I'm more into 'go' than 'show'. We do a lot of highway driving with the last few kms in gravel. So much for a clean detailed engine!
Oh yeah, one more important thing to deal with are the serpentine belt idlers. Mine were all a bit dry. I didn't want to spend 300$ plus on a new set, since the bearings seemed ok. I researched suitable grease and found that 'electric motor bearing' grease is suitable. So I bought some Exxon EM grease,
popped the seals off the idler bearings, washed them out and re-greased them. So far so good with 18K km on them. I'll check them out this winter and see how they're doing.
It's getting into winter here and I've only got a few days left on my insurance. So she'll be put away 'till next April. In the time being we'll use the A6.
11-17-2012, 01:57 PM
#13
Drifting
Thread Starter
Nice tip on the idlers. Maybe a good preventive thing to do. Thank you. When my engine / trans is out like that I entend to clean it like theres no tomorrow. No foul weather driving here so hopefully it will stay clean.
If possible, can you post a pic of all the specialty tools you used and/or made with a description? Sorry for the trouble but I only intend to buy the specialty tools I have to. Pelican has good ones at modest costs.
If possible, can you post a pic of all the specialty tools you used and/or made with a description? Sorry for the trouble but I only intend to buy the specialty tools I have to. Pelican has good ones at modest costs.
