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3.4 Metal pieces in oil sump... FOTO.

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Old 11-26-2012 | 10:01 AM
  #31  
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going to need a lot higher res version PETE!
Old 11-26-2012 | 01:19 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Macster
Just tried to give the OP some thoughts on confirming the lifter bores were bad. I'm not at the engine and the pics are not sufficient detailed for me to say anything else.

The camshaft pads are fine. They are no more worn than the ones in my Boxster with 240K miles at the time they were replaced due to a failed actuator. The tech didn't even think the condition of the pads warranted opening up the other side to even look at the pads let alone replace them.
I can see that now look at the OP's post below yours. He is now confused with all the irrelevant info that you've overwhelmed him with. When people are asking for help
keep it as simple and the point as possible. Don't go off on a tangent and start theorizing on other unlikely causes becaise it dilutes the relevant information. I've noticed this as one of your trends when replying. Long winded, replies that read like a novel and have too much irrelevant stuff.

Again, keep things as short and simple as possible. If something is not clear, as for some clearification before start therorizing or guessing. Nothing good comes out of wild guesses.


This is for the OP: tge cradle looks normal. Since you already have a new set of lifters, put them in and go for a drive.
Old 11-26-2012 | 03:06 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by lunio666
Macster thanks for tip how to test lifters, I will test them only to know wich one is not working correctly but I already bought full set of lifters to replace them.

About that cradle in service manual they saying that any damage more that 1mm2 or any defects at the edges mean the cradle need to by replace... But if this really need to by replace I don't know that I'm asking if someone have the same defect on cradle and still using with no problems. Is sold separately but is expensive is like 600 euro wich I don't want to spend if is not necessarily.

The camshaft pad only top one is damage and bottom one looks fine, I don't know if this is normal where only one is used some much.
It is common for 1 to wear alot more than the other. The new replacement part is made from better material.
Old 11-26-2012 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Byprodriver
It is common for 1 to wear alot more than the other. The new replacement part is made from better material.
......and if you are replacing one side, do the other too. The pads are packaged in pairs (2 per bag) and are only $20 per bag.
Old 11-26-2012 | 06:10 PM
  #35  
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I bought set 24 lifters to replace all of them in one go. I ordered as well new pads and new camshaft chain.

I noticed that hydraulic chain tensioner for 4-6 is was dry inside when I took him form the car and after fill up with oil is leaking when I'm pressing and cover a hole when oil is going in to.

This is can make tapping noise?? I will not have any errors regarding camshaft timing?
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Old 11-26-2012 | 06:22 PM
  #36  
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Well, I don't get any indication the OP is confused. He's going to check to see if there is any sign of lifter bore/cradle wear using the wiggle test. As I said before, twice, I can't say for sure one way or the other. He's at the engine. Only he or someone who is at the engine can make that call.

It does no good to replace just the lifters if there is any problem with the lifter bores/assembly.

As for the camchain rail pads... they do not look bad to me at all based on what my Boxster's actuator pads looked like but if the OP wants to replace one or both that's ok by me. It is his car, his engine, his call.
Old 11-26-2012 | 06:36 PM
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Wow. Before you guys mouth off to me, you really need to pay more attention to the original poster. The mileage is over 114,495 KMs I think which is still over 71,000 miles. Rebuild time, not patch up time.
Old 11-26-2012 | 07:21 PM
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I was thinking thats engines should run up to 300K KM before rebuild of course depending of driving style and milage on oil....
Old 11-26-2012 | 07:28 PM
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Sorry dude, Its not a diesel. Why not fix everything while its apart. May as well get it over with and you get a fresh engine, less worry.
Old 11-26-2012 | 07:34 PM
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I was already thinking about rebuild this engine and maybe I will do it.
Old 11-26-2012 | 07:48 PM
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Now thats the proper can-do spirit. It will be fun and you will know its done right. Dont listen to the peeps trying to tell you it has to be a pro that repairs it. You obviously know your way around engines. Go for it, bruh!
Old 11-26-2012 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by KrazyK
Wow. Before you guys mouth off to me, you really need to pay more attention to the original poster. The mileage is over 114,495 KMs I think which is still over 71,000 miles. Rebuild time, not patch up time.
You've got to be crazy to say things like this. 115 000km is NOTHING for this or, any other, engine. Please stop suggesting rebuilds. I don't know how much you know about engines but it can't be much. My 996 has 325 000km and I just finished repairing/freshening up the heads. The valves and the valve guides are still original and the leakdown test was within normal spec. The car runs perfect even with this many kms on the engine.

As for the lifter bores, you don't wiggle the lifter and go by feel but measure them. I'm repeating myself but, from the pictures, the lifter bores shoe no unusual wear patterns to suggest wear.
Old 11-26-2012 | 10:11 PM
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My point is while he has it apart, why not replace any worn parts while hes there? You dont even know his intended use. Would you trust your high mileage engine on a long trip or high performance use? Maybe he wants to make the engine more dependable?

You know nothing of my mechanical aptitude. I assure you I have probably diagnosed, repaired, and blue printed more engines than you have changed the oil in. I would imagine our investment in tools is probably more than your house is worth. If your going to give be prepared to get it back.

For what its worth, I have seen you criticize those who are trying to help the people posting more than you offer any useful comments.
Old 11-27-2012 | 12:34 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by KrazyK
For what its worth, I have seen you criticize those who are trying to help the people posting more than you offer any useful comments.
+1......
Old 11-27-2012 | 02:40 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by KrazyK
My point is while he has it apart, why not replace any worn parts while hes there? You dont even know his intended use. Would you trust your high mileage engine on a long trip or high performance use? Maybe he wants to make the engine more dependable?

You know nothing of my mechanical aptitude. I assure you I have probably diagnosed, repaired, and blue printed more engines than you have changed the oil in. I would imagine our investment in tools is probably more than your house is worth. If your going to give be prepared to get it back.

For what its worth, I have seen you criticize those who are trying to help the people posting more than you offer any useful comments.
I would absolutly trust my engine, otherwise I wouldn't have fixed it. You are suggesting a full rebuild for pulling the valve covers. How logical is that? It matters little how much your tools are worth when I read suggestions like these. You can attack me all you want, I've done my share of wrenching too but my tools are not worth more than my house. Want to see what can be done with nothing more than common hand tools, a regular garage and some knowhow? Go see my thread on the Canadian forum. You'll find it under "Dragged home one of these". The 928 forum has a few of mine too OR click on the grey in my signature.


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