Huck1974

Newbie and here to learn. With that being said, I am no stranger to high HP and forced induction cars. The only thing that a cooler thermostat will accomplish is take longer to get to the same temperature. After a certain period of time, both will reach the same temperature and maintain it. The only real way to lower temps consistently, is to increase radiator volume and upgrade cooling fans. Water wetter helps a bit.

perryinva

Again, neither I nor Doug are "trying" to lower water temps! If you have experience with other high HP cars, then great, but where are their T-stats and indicator sensors located? Like you said, the most solid way to lower temps is to increase rad surface area, or increase airflow, OR increase coolant flow through the system. That was the only real point of my previous lengthy post. Hartech and others all are saying, that based on their measurements, which far exceed all our armchair posturing, that the existing T-stat impeds some flow at normal temps, and that by the time the T-stat can react to the increased temps to increase flow, too many hot spots have suffered. If you are doing a water pump anyway like I am, and you believe in replacing the T-stat as a wear item like I do, then the extra $70 is a no brainer, with no negative side effects and only possible positive ones. The extra warm up time is insignificant, and there is definitely a thermodynamic effect. It is totally misleading to say the lower temp stat does nothing.

I have said that the average mixed coolant temp is about the same. Many that have put in the low temp one complained because the gauge showed little if any change! Good! But that does not alter the fact that the localized flow challenged locations are now benefiting from full flow at all times, instead of being choked back when the engine hits high revs and output and having to wait until the entire 6 gallon coolant system rises in temp to open the t-stat to where it should have been minutes ago.

soverystout

AMEN!!!! +996!!!!!

Huck1974

I wasn't saying don't get one. I'm only saying that all it does is open sooner. A thermostat is a stat is a stat. Regardless what temp you decide to use, it would be silly to not replace it while you are there.

Macster

Might as well save your breath. Lower temp t-stat is the 996 engine savior in favor right now and no amount of intelligent counter point will change anyone's mind.

My Boxster's coolant temp reaches 226F (but never any higher) under some extreme driving conditions in high ambient temps. The t-stat is marked "83" which is 181F. The darn thing is fully open and yet the coolant temp is quite a bit above that. What would be necessary to lower that upper temp?

I might also add the times I have monitored coolant temp when moving down the road the coolant temp hovers around 186F so if vehicle speed is sufficently high this alone moves enough air through the radiators to keep the coolant temp quite low.

Anyhow, what would lower this 226F peak temp?

A t-stat that opens at even a lower temp that 181F?

Hardly.

More radiator capacity or more air flow through the existing radiators is the answer. Which is what Porsche does for its vehicles (Turbos and Tip/PDK equipped) which generate/produce higher heat loads. While my Boxster's coolant temp reaches 226F the Turbo's never gets anywhere near that hot and that is because is has 1) 3 radiators; 2) better aerodynamics to encourage more air flow through the radiators; 3) different electric radiator fan operation which has the fans on to move more air through the radiators when the car is not moving fast enough to accomplish this.

But of course Porsche knows nothing about cars and must have selected a too high a t-stat by mistake and hit upon 3 radiators, more air flow from increased fan action, and better aerodynamics by accident.

What it means to me this lower temp t-stat business is it is just one more thing to have to think about when buying a used car. Try to determine if one is installed and if so then walk away.