Code just states a central locking failure, doesn't tell me which switch.

According to the DIY on renntech, it says it's the door locking sensor:

f] One senses that the door lock motor has reached the 'lock' position.

I pulled apart both doors and checked the microswitches, both seem to be fine...

driving me nuts =/

 

Has your alarm module(under the seat) ever come in contact with water?

Wondering if it could just be an alarm brain malfunction or something...

 

what model and year so we can help look up correct info?
Just a thought before you go ripping the car apart (so to speak), but has the handbrake to be engaged for the locking system to remain locked? For instance, if I unlock my car and decide not to open the door, it locks itself up again after a while. There is a microswitch on my handbrake which may effect the system on your car. Another thing could be that the windows are not fully closed. Just a thought. Or would a low battery on your remote (if in possession) let the car unlock itself? Hell I don't know I am just shooting in the dark here.

 

I leave my windows cracked & lock the doors all the time.

 

Maybe the windows have to be fully closed. Have you tried that? Whoops sorry. Thats another poster.

 

Yes, windows are fully closed. Both windows function properly as well. I've used both internal and external door handles to make sure they move the 1/2" when opening.

The car is a 2001 996 turbo.

I also replaced the key remote and had it reprogrammed. The shop that did it told me the code was generic and they would have to dig deeper if I wanted to find out which switch it was specifically. (basically saying pay $ to get answer, lol).

I can look at the ebrake as well.

To my knowledge, my alarm module under the seat has never been in contact with water. The battery in the car is brand new, it was recently replaced. The stereo headunit is after market, but it was like that when I got it. I know there is a microswitch for radio theft, but not sure if that will relate.

The previous owner said he never had a problem, but he could be lying. Said everything worked fine, then he replaced the battery after the PPI, it has never worked for me.

 

So just to be clear, you had a shop read the code and they gave you a generic fault code? Although I haven't personally done this, my understanding is that if you use the Durametric or PST it will tell you the specific switch that is giving the error. That will save you a lot of time...I'd take it to a dealer or a shop with the proper code reader.