Gonzo911

Over the past few weeks, I have had trouble shifting from 2-3rd in my 03 C2. I have experienced 2nd gear pop out from time to time, but this is different. It physically won't go into 3rd until I let off the gas, and reshift. 57k and I am sure it is the original clutch. It's possible I just "missed" it, but not twice and in the same gear. Maybe time for a new clutch or an issue with the gearbox. Thoughts?

Barn996

Is it grinding as well or just difficult to engage? Synchro? Do you have a short shifter installed?

Gonzo911

No grinding, just difficult to engage. I do not have a short shifter. Thanks for any suggestions.

Detoxx

Could just be your linkage.

Barn996

If your clutch was going out, wouldn't all the gears be difficult to engage?

Gonzo911

Barn...that's a good question. I am due for an oil change so I will have my Indy look at it. Not a huge problem now, but it is not going to fix itself and can only get worse. Just thought someone might recognize the symptoms and give me an idea of what might be going on. I will post when I know.

Macster

Thankfully issues with my transmissions/clutches have been infrequent and not serious, but what I can tell you from my experience is to be sure the clutch hydraulic system is flushed/bled.

And flushed/bled right. I did this once using the power bleeder system and the results were not as good as I expected. I enlisted the help of a co-worker and had him work the clutch pedal while I was under the car and the results were much better.

After the flush/bleed with the engine idling the car on the level in neutral you should with the clutch pedal fully depressed be able to shift from neutral to any gear without any real difficulty.

If there is any, it can be the clutch dragging, worn gearbox, linkage problems, or just worn out (so to speak) transmission fluid (or possibly the wrong fluid unless you are sure the tranny's never had any thing but Porsche fluid in it).

Anyhow, if the clutch hydraulic fluid flush/bleed doesn't help consider having the transmission/diff fluid changed. (The dealer charges me 0.3 hours for my Boxster's 5-speed and the last time I had my Boxster fluid changed the dealer service department gave me a huge discount on genuine Porsche transmission fluid).

No fluid change is going to resurrect a truly sick transmission but it is worth a shot.

There are a lot of opinions about which transmission fluids are best but to keep the variables to a minimum my advice would be to use the Porsche fluid.

If you need some assurance the OE fluid is any good, my 02 Boxster's 5-speed has over 258K miles of trouble free service using Porsche transmission/diff fluid and shifts as smoothly as ever.

Sincerely,

Macster.

Gonzo911

^^^ Thanks Macster. As always.

jrgordonsenior

Along with Mc Masters suggestions above ( definitely bleed the clutch) I would check the 2 indent pins to make sure they're tight. Difficult shifting is a symptom of a indent pin backing itself out. I also strongly suggest changing the tranny oil especially because you live in a furnace this time of the year. Porsche fiil is made by Shell BTW....

Viper6

What and where are these pins located to check? Also, is the OEM fluid synthetic? I have had good luck in previous manual gear boxes changing to synthetic... if some have changed to sythetic, what is recommended?

jrgordonsenior

Yes it's synthetic.

First off it's detent, my mistake....

Here's a link from Gbox who sells a replacement part:

http://www.gboxweb.com/detent.html

99firehawk

If you end up needing to open the gear box I have a thrd gear set for sale here https://rennlist.com/forums/parts-ma...d-gearset.html

Chaos

I was gonna suggesty more wine

jordanturbo

Try bleeding your clutch as others have said, also flushing your tranny fluid. But instead of using Porsche fluid try AC Delco Syncromesh. GM had the fluid developed to prevent recalling every manual tranny in their mid 90's pick ups, It literally saved them tens of thousands of transmissions. It is because of a special moly additive that helps the syncro's. Technically it is only meant for very few vehicles, but I have used it in Honda's Subaru's BMW's Nissan's and even my Porsche. It has made grinds from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd dissapear, tough shifts gone, this **** is MAGIC! It is not a proper repair, if your syncro's are worn which is sounds like yours might be it will help preserve what you have left, and make your shifts much smoother, but it does not change the fact that having your synchros replaced may be in your future.

Go to your local GM dealership, costs about $9 per quart, dropping and filling your fluid is easy to do yourself or have someone do, and can possibly save you pulling a tranny and replacing synchros. I have also tried just about every fluid out there, Moltul, Liquimoly, Redline, Royal Purple, OEM fluids, and most other companies that make lubricating products, but always find synchromesh the best, just google reviews.

In my M3 I had a nasty tough shift and occasional grind from 2nd to 3rd I tried flushing OEM fluid, still there. then tried Motul since it it meant BMW specifications, still there. Then AC Delco Synchromesh since I had previous luck with it, and it went away.

nick49

I'd say it may be a shift cable related issue. Look under the car where the shift cables enter the trans and make sure the ferrels are positively located in their respective holders. A cable that is a bit off will cause a shifting issue. Another guess would be worn plastic parts in the actual shifter assembly in the console.

I found this that made shifting difficult on my 996 after a motor replacement