Frank996

As some of you know, I'm about to make my 996 purchase and want to be as prepared as humanly possible. I'm not in the US but continental Europe so just looking for tips what I can do to do the first initial sort of vehicles, so I'm not wasting my time. I guess the cars in themselves are the same all over the world bar a few plastic things here and there

1. So, I know that I want a full history with a service book stamped, signed and dated.
2. Check that the interior of the car "matches" in tear and wear with the trip-counter (that it has not been clocked)
3. Check for damages, like lift the carpet(s) where available and see if the colour of the paint is uniform and spot welding - Same with wear on tyres.
4. Obvious to check for rust around doors, and wheel caps.

So, these are the obvious ones... What about the hidden extra bonus tips you may have?

Cheerio,

F

rpm's S2

As good a list as I have ever seen... Probably warrants a separate post. Generic, but good for any used car purchase. The writer is a long-time used car dealer.

http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/201...2/#more-456083

Frank996

Thanks rpm's S2...

I don't see "kicking the tires" anywhere in the list which is a good sign ;-)

Btw, is there a drawing/diagram (or photo's) of where the different fluid's are filled up on the 996 anywhere? Basically, where is the coolant, oil dipstick (should be easy enough to locate), brake fluid etc?

dotframe

I always climb under the car with a flashlight and look for leaks or fluid seeping anywhere. The first 996 I ever looked at was beautiful but slightly overpriced. Then I looked under it and there were oil stains all over the place. Check all under the engine compartment and at each corner at least.

laz74

This the list I made myself when checking out my 996. Take your time, don't overlook anything, and don't go into it thinking with your heart. Don't be afraid to pass on a car if something comes up - there are a lot of 996s out there.

PPI Checklist
Year / Make / Model:
Price:
Color (ext/int):
Mileage:
# owners:
VIN:

Seller:
Address:
Phone:


PRE DRIVE
Exterior - paint cond, nicks/scratches, cracks (F/R bumpers, rocker panels)
Interior - scratches, worn down seats/dash, missing pieces
Electronics - climate control, radio, CD player, buttons, instruments
Fuse Box - intact and untouched
Battery - electrolyte level / corrosion
Fluids - brake, coolant, power steering
Pads (2.5mm or less remaining = replace)
Rotors - scoring, bluish, check for lip (worn 1mm or more = replace)
Tires - tread remaining, even wear L/R, F/R
Engine - dirty or signs of leakage around A/C, alternator, water pump, oil pan/filter
Oil - signs of coolant
Belt Wear - cracks or nicks
Engine Mounts
Oil leaks - heads, block, tranny, signs of RMS leakage or IMS failure
Rust - engine block/heads, suspension, subframe
Under Panels -scraped or missing
Suspension Bushings - cracked or worn down
CV Joints - cracked or torn
Exhaust - rusty or loose
Radiators - leaks or damage to grills
Docs - owners manual, 2 keys, 1 spare key, radio code

TEST DRIVE
Engine Smoking?
Idle - smooth @ 800rpm, stumbles when A/C switched on?
Noises - belt, water pump, A/C, power steering
Gears / Clutch - smooth shifting thru all fwd gears and reverse?
Alignment - stays centered?
Acceleration - Stumbles? Progressive up to redline?
Braking - Vibrations? Firm pedal?
Steering - excessive play? L to R transition quick and stiff?
Post Drive - strange noises or issues restarting?

San Rensho

Try to start the car when it is absolutely stone cold, overnight. Have the owner start the car with you in back, with the engine cover open. Listen for rattles as it starts up and look for smoke coming from the tail pipe.

Pac996

Engine lid holds water even though it has drains. Look on the rim where the metal is folded over for signs of rust. The water pools in that area. Best after washing the car or rains to lift the engine lid and hold it open so that the water drains out.

targa996

If you open engine cover (switch is on the sill when you open driver door) it is pretty obvious where dip stick is - right in front of you -there is also electronic dipstick - if you turn on ignition (but don't start engine) this will run in 5 secs or so if engine is cold. Even if oil is black this is not necessarily bad - just see service record of when oil was last changed and what oil was used (if that is available). Oil should not be over max line - that could cause problems - and if at min could point to oil consumption (again not necessarily an issue - but something to ask about). If you decide to go to full PPO - you could ask the inspection to pull the oil filter and examine for metal particles (at your cost of course). Filters are about $20 here plus a < quart of oil to do that.

Coolant reservoir is to your left - again obvious - and should be clear (if yellowed probably needs replacing - but that is not too expensive) Coolant is pink (you might need to shine flashlight through the tank to see it well) and should be at the min line when cold.

Brake fluid is in front trunk (again switch to open is by driver door) - if they are maintaining to Porsche spec should have been changed every two years (check record if available) and should be light golden color and between min and max marks on level ground).

Another thing to check is tire pressure - are these to spec - if not - was the owner deliberately running low (and why ?) - again not an issue in itself, but it pressure are set correctly would be further evidence of good maintenance ....

Karl996

Hindsight is always 20/20. Just to add to the comments above I would have done the following if I had known more when I bought mine:

1. Check the dates on the tyres. Usually 4 digits in an oval. First 2 are the week of manufacture second 2 are the year. Tyres are expensive so you don't want old tyres.
2. Lock the car with the remote and see if it beeps/honks. If it does there is a problem with the alarm system/switches (make sure everything is closed including the centre compartment). You want no beep/honk.
3. In relation to 2 above - look in the frunk, remove the battery plastic cover and look for the alarm horn. Make sure it is connected. If its not, 2 above will not be effective.
4. Once warm/hot, shut the car off and start it immediately. If it sounds like its got a weak battery you 're going to be looking at either a new starter, alternator or wiring between them - or worst case all 3.
5. Make sure all the interior plastics are there (seat sides, sun visors etc etc.) They're really expensive.
6. Screech on startup - usually the drive belt or one of the rollers.
7. No clunks from the suspension when going over uneven, bumpy roads. From the front usually means either anti roll bar bushes, lower arms or strut top mounts - or again all 3 !!

Can't think of much else right now which hasn't been covered.

Good luck

Frank996

Thanks again all... This is GOLD and I'm going to print this out for my check-list manual which I'm going to bring with me... Thanks a mill

Shark Attack

Drivers lic-check
Cars insured- check
Key- check
Brake chk -chk
Drive drive drive.

Karl996

Oh yes !!! most important.

Make sure that what the seller is offering is correct.

By this I mean. Is it a C2/C4 or a C4S. My seller claimed it to be a C2S - right !!!!

Obtain the VIN and run a check. Matching numbers (engine and chassis) against paperwork

Also on the insode frunk lid there should be an option code sticker. (A copy of this might also be available in the owners log book.) Make sure all the options as listed (again you can use a decoder) are there. If not why not !!

Frank996

Hi Karl996 (funny how we share the same "sur-number" ),

Yes of course. I had forgot about the option label and will check this as well.

I'm going to buy through a dealership and this being Switzerland the chance of funny business is 1 to a million, but again, I'm going to check everything in detail just to make sure.

Ubermensch

Macster wrote up a great checklist/test drive routine. Search for his post on the topic.

S.

nick49

I'd use the CPO checklist that Porsche uses. This will give you most everything you need/want to know. This is pretty comprehensive so you may want to pick and choose what's important to you.

http://www.cars.com/go/advice/shoppi...inspection.pdf

Have a good body and paint shop check for prior damage/repainted areas

get the car on a lift and have a good tech go over the underside with you

look at the brakes, rotors, wet spots anywhere? Chassis rust or corrosion?



1. records/receipts of service history, yes. Book stamped, signed and dated, not needed

2. on Porsches, interior abuse and wear can be at either extreme. It depends on the PO.

3. paint under the carpet and spot welds will look fine on most all cars except a very small percentage of salvaged vehicles. Removing the bumper covers or carpet in the frunk is more telling

4. if you see any rust anywhere, run away

If you are not well schooled in mechanics and auto repair, get some pro to help you. GL!