996 oil change procedure
08-09-2012, 12:14 PM
#16
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08-09-2012, 12:45 PM
#17
at least the 996 drain comes out horizontal, I did a change on my Range Rover Sport with the plug that comes out horizontal, suffice to say my location of the drain pan and the hot oil trajectory were not aligned and both I and the garrage floor got a good dousing of hot oil
08-09-2012, 02:39 PM
#21
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There is a good youtube video on the 996 oil change someone did... i recommend you watch that, and as they say it is a piece of cake.
I have been waiting for someone to counter what I see most other websites recommending to jack the rear from engine case to get on stands (quite a few reputable sites). I've never had a car that did not recommend a cross or sub-frame member as the preferred center lift point... why is this subframe not a recommended lift point in the manual? Porsche only lists the frame sides...
I'll go with the cross frame (if I can get my jack to it). Thx!
I have been waiting for someone to counter what I see most other websites recommending to jack the rear from engine case to get on stands (quite a few reputable sites). I've never had a car that did not recommend a cross or sub-frame member as the preferred center lift point... why is this subframe not a recommended lift point in the manual? Porsche only lists the frame sides...
I'll go with the cross frame (if I can get my jack to it). Thx!
08-09-2012, 02:47 PM
#22
Race Director
I am attempting to change my oil (first time) in my '99 996 C2. I have the filter and gaskets for the filter and drain plug. My problem is getting the car jacked up in the rear to perform the drain and change. I have a floor jack and two jack stands....and I feel like an idiot but I can't figure out how to get the car up on the jack stands in the appropriate jack points. Please help!! I would also love a complete oil change tutorial if one exists... Thanks in advance!
This gets the engine of the car high enough to get under the car and do an oil change.
The car on ramps doesn't effect the amount of oil that is drained.
Just be sure the engine is warm -- IIRC the coolant temp wants to be at least 70C (158F) -- and let the oil drain for around 20 minutes.
I would never left my cars by any other "lift points" other than the factory lift points.
If I were unable to use ramps for some reason, I'd invest in a nice lift that would be flat/low enough to driver over/on and then would raise the car high enough -- safely -- to get under the car.
The lift would use the factory lift points so I could use this to raise the car for oil/filter servicing, but also use it to remove the wheels for a brake job or other work.
Sincerely,
Macster.
08-09-2012, 02:52 PM
#23
Former Vendor
The cross member is a safe point to lift the rear of the car from... The other day I went to a Local Club members home to teach him how to do his own Brake job. For the DIY guy, in his home garage who can not nor does not wish to purchase a scissors lift, that is where I recommend to place the jack. Then you can place both of your jack stand either at the chassis points or on a secure location of the Sub frame.
08-09-2012, 03:53 PM
#24
Drifting
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Hmmm..
I don't jack my car up when I change my oil. I back partially out of my garage so that the rear of the car is hanging over the lip from my garage into my driveway. This gives me plenty of room to get under the car. The 996 is one of the easiest oil changes I've ever done.
Is something like this an option for you?
Is something like this an option for you?
08-10-2012, 09:44 PM
#25
Drifting
This may seem like a stupid tip but just remember after you've run the car to heat up the oil and then go under to remove the plug - remember that the oil is %&*# HOT! Even wearing thick rubber gloves the oil almost melted them to my hand... Now I use a hex socket and just pull it away with the plug attached.
08-10-2012, 10:15 PM
#26
Burning Brakes
I just back mine onto trailer ramps, easy and safe. Less than $50 bucks at most stores; http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...ductId=1443986
quicker and safer than floor jacks.
quicker and safer than floor jacks.
09-18-2012, 12:45 PM
#27
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I really like this reply Nick, nice and simple.
Has anyone else done it with a plastic filter wrench and allen wrench?
I'd rather not buy a fitting just for the filter removal and mess with torque wrenches (I know, do it right or don't do it at all yea yea..)
Has anyone else done it with a plastic filter wrench and allen wrench?
I'd rather not buy a fitting just for the filter removal and mess with torque wrenches (I know, do it right or don't do it at all yea yea..)
Just buy a couple of 2 x 12s, cut them maybe 18" and 24" and nail together. Make 2 of these and use to raise the rear up 3.5" by backing the rear tires up on to them.
You can buy a plastic filter wrench at Walmart for a couple of bucks that works fine. Warm the car up a bit and put a large enough pan under to collect 2 gal of oil minimum. 8mm allen wrench I believe will remove the plug. It's all intuitive from there. GL
You can buy a plastic filter wrench at Walmart for a couple of bucks that works fine. Warm the car up a bit and put a large enough pan under to collect 2 gal of oil minimum. 8mm allen wrench I believe will remove the plug. It's all intuitive from there. GL
09-19-2012, 05:42 PM
#28
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09-19-2012, 10:13 PM
#29
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this is such a silly thread... I back mine on to a set of ramps. But I have done it with out lifting at all.
That pix of the guy jacking his car with the engine case... OMG.....Put down the wrenches and slowly step away from the car.
That pix of the guy jacking his car with the engine case... OMG.....Put down the wrenches and slowly step away from the car.
09-20-2012, 08:28 AM
#30
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