Replacing the water pump.
#16
Drifting
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Ephrata, PA, USA now. Originally from the UK
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It does not specifically say not to use sealant, however when sealant is recommended, the workshop manual is very specific about which sealants to use. So I would take the absence of mention as a recommendation against sealant. Also, none of the 986/996 water pumps I've done have leaked afterward. The factory metal gasket is a good one.
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#17
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Not according to this site.. http://www.partsource.ca/doityoursel...Water-Pump.asp
So who's wrong??????????????
So who's wrong??????????????
"Every vehicle is different. When it comes to maintenance and repairs always follow the vehicle's owner's manual."
#18
Racer
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reviving this as we don't need "another" water pump thread. Cant find a place to rent a 1/4 torque wrench for reassembly on my water pump. They are not that much so just going to buy one. I started thinking, for those of you who have done it, did you use a torque wrench or just go by feel as it is such a small value of 7 foot pounds. I remember doing the oil pan on my old 944 and it was 12 foot pounds if I remember correctly and that felt like nothing at all. Just barely over hand tight.
anyways, just currious
anyways, just currious
#19
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Iirc, i used the tq wrench. I used a 1/4"-3/8" adapter and used my 3/8 tq wrench. However, the one bolt you need the swivel socket for was impossible to get to straight on, so that one was as much feel as tq spec. Pretty easy job overall, but you need the 1/4" drive swivel socket to get in there with an extension on the 1 bolt. I had one with an integral 3/8 swivel, and it was too tight.
#20
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I highly recommend using a torque wrench. The recommended torque seems Soooooo not tight enough. Without a torque wrench it would be impossible for me to resist over-tightening. I did the water pump and thermostat on my 2000 Carrera last spring. No sealant, yes torque wrench. To date, no leaks!
#21
Racer
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Well my waterpump has been replaced. Wasn't too bad really. I did pick up a torque wrench and glad I did. Either though 7' pounds doesn't seem like much, it actually feels pretty tight when tightening.
Things I learned that may help the next guy.
1. Remove the lower idler pully. Makes it easier to get to and remove the one most pesky bolt. I found once this bolt was loose, if I stood with my back to the car I could reach town and unscrew it easily by hand.
2. With the pully out of the way, it was easy to remove the old pump and insert the new one from the top. No need to remove or disturbe the thermostat hose or the other lower coolant hose.
3. Either purchase or borrow a UView or equivilent for adding coolant back to the system. I ended up using the UView and still performing manual bleeding steps just to feel good about it. After the UView there was never a need to add any additional coolant.
I would say with the learning curve it took me 4-5 hours. If/when I do it again in another 40K I feel I could do it in less than three hours all in.
My car has 57K on it and I did not have water pump service history available so I decided to replace as I would get a random smell of coolant from time to time, and it finally started driping on occasion. The one removed was not the original as the old gasket was cut so this is # 3 in my car. Shaft play was negligable but there was a hint of bearing grind when spinning. Well at least I can sleep better at night.
thanks for all that assisted either via forum feedback, PM's, or tools leant.
Brian
Things I learned that may help the next guy.
1. Remove the lower idler pully. Makes it easier to get to and remove the one most pesky bolt. I found once this bolt was loose, if I stood with my back to the car I could reach town and unscrew it easily by hand.
2. With the pully out of the way, it was easy to remove the old pump and insert the new one from the top. No need to remove or disturbe the thermostat hose or the other lower coolant hose.
3. Either purchase or borrow a UView or equivilent for adding coolant back to the system. I ended up using the UView and still performing manual bleeding steps just to feel good about it. After the UView there was never a need to add any additional coolant.
I would say with the learning curve it took me 4-5 hours. If/when I do it again in another 40K I feel I could do it in less than three hours all in.
My car has 57K on it and I did not have water pump service history available so I decided to replace as I would get a random smell of coolant from time to time, and it finally started driping on occasion. The one removed was not the original as the old gasket was cut so this is # 3 in my car. Shaft play was negligable but there was a hint of bearing grind when spinning. Well at least I can sleep better at night.
thanks for all that assisted either via forum feedback, PM's, or tools leant.
Brian