healey1968

Thanks for all the replies guys. I got some time tonight to run out and swap the wheels (not easy to do, I live in the city). First off, the noise stayed on the passenger side after swapping the wheels. Pretty much no change at all. OK, so it's not just the tire itself.

Now, I'll admit, I've know for a while that I could use an alignment (for other reasons). Looking at the rear tires, it's obvious that I have uneven wear, with the inside corner the most worn. I took some pictures, could upload them later tonight.

Could this noise be caused by a bad alignment?

I did the 9-12 test, pulling, pushing, etc. There is absolutely no play in the wheel at all. I forgot to check the lugs after my test drive - but I don't think they'll be hot. In the past, after 30 min+ drives, I've felt the brake drum, rim, *above* the lugs, etc for heat thinking that exact same thing. Noise = Friction = Heat. It's always been cool to the touch.

I left the wheels swapped for now. I only did a 1/2 mile test drive, never got above 35mph and could hear the noise pretty much the whole time. I'm doubting the bearing right now (could change opinions tomorrow), thinking an alignment is in my future.

Ben

washington dc porsche

You are in denial! I did the same thing though, I even purchased a new set of tires. In the end, I replaced the right rear wheel bearing.

healey1968

Probably right...., but let's talk about the Porsche here - not the rest of my life

On a more serious note, does anybody have the B90 bearing puller kit for loan? I see that Pelican also sells a kit (for $275) that is designed for these bearings. I'm more than happy to throw a deposit your way, but I'd rather not have a 1 time use tool laying around my garage.

Ben

Macster

Very unlikely alignment would cause the noise to instantly appear after you swapped tires.

I agree with washington dc porsche: you are in denial.

Wheel bearing.

After having the wheel bearing taken care of, then have the car properly aligned due to the uneven tire wear.

However... I guess if you are going to do an alignment anyway... you could do this first -- the bearing change should not affect alignment, didn't for my Boxster anyhow, but you need to double-check this is the case for your car.

But I still believe there's a new wheel bearing in your car's future, immediate future.

Sincerely,

Macster.

redridge

yes... and you should replace both bearings.

had a friend drive with bad bearings... warped the wheel carrier. Big money there....

healey1968

Ok, ok, I'm out of denial. Called up my local indy and he guessed $600+tax (impressed he would guess over the phone). Might as well buy myself a new toy and save some money in the process.

So, I'm looking at the B90-P2 kit from Pelican. $275 seems steep, but I understand it's a good tool. However, after shipping for 35 bucks I started looking elsewhere.

What about this kit here? $333 and free shipping for the full master kit is hard to beat - especially as I might sell it afterwards (or loan it out to other locals). It should have the shoe to pull the hub, right?

BTW: I did see some 928 owners who made their own puller out of PVC. I know it's inexpensive, but I'd rather avoid that route.

Is there anyplace to get a rear bearing for less than ~$97?

Macster

Sigh. I don't mean to come down too hard on you but come on? I paid $100 for the bearing 8 years ago. And the thing has lasted 150K miles (or more) and the other 3 are originals and have over 256K miles on them.

Come on. How much under $97 do you think you're going to pay?

just buy a genuine Porsche wheel bearing and install it properly and get the car back on the road.

Sorry. I need a vacation.

Sincerely,

Macster.

Byprodriver

You want a *** !

pecto3

My rear wheel bearing is probably going too, haven't really taken a look on how to replace it but last time I replaced the front wheel bearing on a Toyota, I removed the wheelhub/carrier and have a local shop remove and press in the new bearing. Is it possible to do the same on the 996? Thanks!

healey1968

Yes, it is possible. However, you'll mess up the alignment. The 996 WSM describes 2 ways of doing the project - with a press or with the bearing puller. Considering I don't have the shop space to buy a press, I'll stick with the puller idea for now.

I guess considering I'm going to do an alignment after this, it's a wash either way.

Actually, I did find a *** (***?) bearing at one of the online dealers for ~50 bucks. However, the specs on the page concerned me a little, so I just went with the pelicanparts one.

pecto3

Hmmm....I'm on the fence on this one myself too. Local machine shop charged me $50 for bearing r&r but then again, 4 wheel alignment was recommended sometime ago by the dealership

spare tire

If you tire is the Michilin Pilot sport with the v shaped tread pattern then is does get very noisy as it wears. I had a set and swiched to PS2s and things quieted down. Better than swapping wheels left to right is to have a friend with the same car and put his wheels on for a drive. In 5 miles you will have an answer.

San Rensho

You can also just check around and find a machine shop that can replace the bearing, just bring them the hub and the new bearing and its an easy job with a hydraulic press. I'm guessing it will be much cheaper than buying a set of tools you will only use once or twice.

healey1968

Alright, all of the tools (B90 puller, bearing splitter & 3/4 drive breaker bar) and the new bearing have all showed up. I'm planning on tackling this job over the weekend with a friend. Any last minute advice (besides don't do it ).

One of the few concerns I have is getting the half shaft itself out. I'd like to avoid removing any bolts from the suspension. After disconnecting it from the transmission, will it pull in towards the center of the car (fit under the transmission)? None of the guides touch on this part of the job - I can't remember how much clearance there was when I was doing my clutch.

healey1968

Update here: Spent some time over the weekend pulling the bearing off the car. Unfortunately, the B90 puller cracked with the bearing ~1/4 inch out of hub (after beautifully pulling the spindle out). I resorted to the backup plan - fully pulled the carrier off the car and brought it over to the local indy. I'll let them push the old bearing out, push the new one in and mount the spindle.

Now - the problem is timing. I doubt I'll have a chance to work on this for the next week or so. While I'm waiting, are there any other parts I should replace while I'm in there? The sway bar bushings look ok and the brakes have lots of life left. I did have to drill out one of the screws holding the rotor down, so I'm going to get a couple new ones.

BTW: I'm still waiting to hear back from PelicanParts about either replacing/refunding the puller. I'm not going to fault the tool design until I hear back from the indy how hard it is to get the bearing out with a press.

Ben