Full DIY: Transaxle, FW, Clutch, IMS Bearing
05-08-2012, 06:12 PM
#31
Three Wheelin'
Thanks Peavy (if that is indeed your real name)
As it happens, I'm replacing my brake master cylinder as well as my clutch slave, so I'm starting with an empty line. Not sure if that makes a difference, but I wil ponder the pos and cons - one consideration being that I would like to do the brake master replacement while I wait for my clutch parts.
It's all apart already so I can't check how accessable the hydraulic connection is with the slave bolted up, but while I was taking it apart it looked easier connect th ehydraulic line than trying to get at that bottom bolt.
I could be wrong though...lord knows it wouldn't be the first time.
Also - I noticed that everything became easier once the hard line support bracket was removed....and the workshop manual says to install the slave *before* the trans is pushed al the way up against the engine. So there's that.
I'll figure it out. Thanks for the notes.
With regards the RMS - I have ordered one ($15), but mine isn't leaking and it's the latest style so I'm having second thoughts about replacing it.
That said, I managed to get a look at the DIY tool thread - two versions in fact - and I'm going to look at a factory tool today.
I do think it's possible to make a foolproof factory tool for about $10 so that's my plan.
I'll post pictures of my setup when I get there.
cheers.
As it happens, I'm replacing my brake master cylinder as well as my clutch slave, so I'm starting with an empty line. Not sure if that makes a difference, but I wil ponder the pos and cons - one consideration being that I would like to do the brake master replacement while I wait for my clutch parts.
It's all apart already so I can't check how accessable the hydraulic connection is with the slave bolted up, but while I was taking it apart it looked easier connect th ehydraulic line than trying to get at that bottom bolt.
I could be wrong though...lord knows it wouldn't be the first time.
Also - I noticed that everything became easier once the hard line support bracket was removed....and the workshop manual says to install the slave *before* the trans is pushed al the way up against the engine. So there's that.
I'll figure it out. Thanks for the notes.
With regards the RMS - I have ordered one ($15), but mine isn't leaking and it's the latest style so I'm having second thoughts about replacing it.
That said, I managed to get a look at the DIY tool thread - two versions in fact - and I'm going to look at a factory tool today.
I do think it's possible to make a foolproof factory tool for about $10 so that's my plan.
I'll post pictures of my setup when I get there.
cheers.
Hey Jasper, I didn't change my RMS. It wasn't leaking, and hasn't for 11 years now, so didn't want to fix it since it aint broke. 
I did it this way because I think it's easier all things considered. After doing it, here's my take in retrospect:
Replacing hard line BEFORE it goes on the trans:
Pros:
*Very easy to access and install the hard line
*Lots of line wrench access for tightening
*Can pre-fill the slave with fluid on the bench
Cons:
*Harder to install the bolts with fingers because of interference of the hard line
*A little harder to get the socket on the bolt heads, but using 1/4" ratchet and extensions makes it relatively easy either way, but there's obviously less room with the hard line in the way.
Replacing hard line AFTER it goes on the trans:
Pros:
*Must easier to start the bolts with your fingers.
*A little easier to get the socket on the bolt heads, but using 1/4" ratchet and extensions makes it relatively easy either way, but there's obviously less room with the hard line in the way.
Cons:
*Very little line wrench access to tighten the line.
*Can't pre-fill the slave with fluid on the bench (you can, but it will be messy)
It probably doesn't matter much if you pre-fill the cylinder with fluid, especially if you use a Motive power bleeder. But it did make it for a quick bleed.
The big thing is the line wrench access when the slave is installed on the trans. It's pretty tight. That alone was the reason I did it this way. If you haven't taken it apart yet, give it a shot and see if you're comfortable accessing the line with it still installed.
I did it this way because I think it's easier all things considered. After doing it, here's my take in retrospect:
Replacing hard line BEFORE it goes on the trans:
Pros:
*Very easy to access and install the hard line
*Lots of line wrench access for tightening
*Can pre-fill the slave with fluid on the bench
Cons:
*Harder to install the bolts with fingers because of interference of the hard line
*A little harder to get the socket on the bolt heads, but using 1/4" ratchet and extensions makes it relatively easy either way, but there's obviously less room with the hard line in the way.
Replacing hard line AFTER it goes on the trans:
Pros:
*Must easier to start the bolts with your fingers.
*A little easier to get the socket on the bolt heads, but using 1/4" ratchet and extensions makes it relatively easy either way, but there's obviously less room with the hard line in the way.
Cons:
*Very little line wrench access to tighten the line.
*Can't pre-fill the slave with fluid on the bench (you can, but it will be messy)
It probably doesn't matter much if you pre-fill the cylinder with fluid, especially if you use a Motive power bleeder. But it did make it for a quick bleed.
The big thing is the line wrench access when the slave is installed on the trans. It's pretty tight. That alone was the reason I did it this way. If you haven't taken it apart yet, give it a shot and see if you're comfortable accessing the line with it still installed.
05-08-2012, 06:14 PM
#32
I find this or any kind of pump bleeder(ie MItyvac) VERY useful and saves time and headaches. Nothing like getting a solid pedal feel on the FIRST try. Well worth the added cost of the tool IMO and brake bleeding is very nice as well so you can always use it again and again.
05-08-2012, 06:17 PM
#33
Three Wheelin'
I find this or any kind of pump bleeder(ie MItyvac) VERY useful and saves time and headaches. Nothing like getting a solid pedal feel on the FIRST try. Well worth the added cost of the tool IMO and brake bleeding is very nice as well so you can always use it again and again.
Common wisdom around here is that the vacuum shouldn't be used to finish a bleed...better to use pressure like the Motive...but vacum sure is a nice way to draw fluid down the lines and into the slave.
05-10-2012, 01:17 AM
#34
Cardigan Millionaire
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: somewhere in the world with carmen sandiego
Posts: 2,025
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
Good work the write up, I did basically the same thing as you, but I just had my flywheel resurfaced, and didnt do a master, but did do the RMS. I did plan on doing a write up, but with my ****ty black berry camera and bad light the photos didnt turn out well, and I decided instead of spending time documenting I would rather just get it done. I think you did everything the exact same way I did, Did you di the throwout bearing guide tube and pilot bearing as well? I found that my guide tube was worn pretty bad and the Pilot bearing is always a good idea if you are pulling everything apart. I found that putting the new one in goes a lot smoother if you freeze the new one before pressing it in.
This is about as far as I got with documenting haha
Not sure if you have already done it, but I used a simple punch to get the old RMS cocked, then pulled it right out.
As far as installing the new one I had a one of my tire balancing pieces that had the perfect diameter and used a mallet to tap it in place, I also had some plastic lids lying around that would have worked. If you are lacking anything with the right diameter you can take a properly sized blunt object (not to hard) and slowly, softly, and evenly tap it in.
This is about as far as I got with documenting haha
As far as installing the new one I had a one of my tire balancing pieces that had the perfect diameter and used a mallet to tap it in place, I also had some plastic lids lying around that would have worked. If you are lacking anything with the right diameter you can take a properly sized blunt object (not to hard) and slowly, softly, and evenly tap it in.
