First DIY
03-11-2012, 10:21 PM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
First DIY
I've had the car a year now (996.2 targa) and decided to change oil, air filter & poly belt. Lots of good info on the forum & some good youtube videos out here - but here are a few comments that might help others doing it for the first time.
1. To change oil, only need to jack up car on passenger side (right side if looking from rear). I put rear wheel under ramp once I jacked it up far enough (don't want to be under the car if on jack alone). You don't need to go too far under the car to open the oil drain plug. Dont' forget to chock the other wheels.
2. Put lots of cardboard/paper under the oil pan -just in case ! I used 8mm hex socket to open drain plug - I used new magnetic plug from Pelican which takes 10mm hex to replace. (Dont; forget to order the drain plug washer also). Harbor Freight has a set of hex sockets for <$10.
3. Oil does not really need to be warm to drain (0W40 pours very easily at room temp). To finish draining, I removed the ramp and let the car back off the jack - so it was flat on garage floor.
4. After letting drain for 20 mins (or so) - I jacked the car back up onto the ramp - and used a CTA Tools 76mm x 14 flute METAL cap oil filter wrench to remove the stock oil filter cover (the Penzoil plastic cap from the local parts store did not work (slips) - I found the CTA one at Winchester Auto Parts in San Jose).
5. Installed the drain plug with new washer - used Torque wrench (Harbor Freight has a nice wrench on sale for $9.99 all the time). Put in new filter (Hengst from Pelican) and screwed cover back on (with new oiled washer). Again torque wrench on the cap wrench takes the guessing out of how far to tighten.
6. Let the car back down off jack - added 8 qts of mobile 1 0W40 - checked level on dip stick added last 1/2 quart (I don't like to have the oil level 100% full). When I checked on instrument electronic level - oil looks over full, until you start the engine and let everything circulate into the filter etc.
7. Checked for leaks - and then onto the next job.
8. Removing the air box is easy (one 14mm nut to the right of the engine cover release) - however removing the MAF sensor from the airbox first - proved more of an issue. On my model (2002 996.2) they use two torx 20 (or star) screws to hold it in - and these are not standard torx sockets - but TAMPER PROOF - so I had to make a trip to Harbor Frieght again to get a set of STAR Bits (Tamper Proof is hollow in the middle) - on sale for $8.99 for a whole set. Then removing the MAF was easy - there are also two clips for the cable, which is easy to remove. I protected the MAF in a ziplock bag while I removed the airbox (need to unclip the oil filler hose and loosen the rubber boot the connects the air box to the intake)
9. Once airbox is out - it is easy to change the airfilter (also easy to do when still in the car - but I had it out anyway to do the poly belt). Just loosen the screws around the edge of the box.
10. The Poly Belt is very easy to access then. I needed to buy a closed end 24mm wrench to move the belt tensioner (push the wrench clockwise and the tensioner pully moves down which makes the belt slack to take off the pulleys). I made a drawing of how the belt threads around the pulleys so I get it back in the right position. Getting the belt off the bottom left pulley requires twisting it slightly and pushing between the pulley and engine brace - but is very easy. Push the new belt on in the same way. I used the Contiental belt from Pelican - which is 1/2 price of the Porsche OEM (I'm sure also made by Conti).
11. Someone said that getting the new belt back on was tricky - needed to push the tensioner down and use a flat blade screw driver to lever the belt over the last pulley. I was trying this without success - but then realized that it is much easier to push the belt onto the smooth guide pully as the last one - so thread the belt over all the grooved pulleys first - and then you can easily push the belt over the smooth guide as the last step (which pushing the tensioner down).
12. Put the airbox back on, screwed in MAF, crossed fingers, fired her up, and everything looks good.
13. I think I'm going to go to my Indie next week to do the plugs, window regulator and transmission fluid however - but I probably saved $400 or so (including the tools I had to buy) doing the easy parts myself. Having the right tools is key !
1. To change oil, only need to jack up car on passenger side (right side if looking from rear). I put rear wheel under ramp once I jacked it up far enough (don't want to be under the car if on jack alone). You don't need to go too far under the car to open the oil drain plug. Dont' forget to chock the other wheels.
2. Put lots of cardboard/paper under the oil pan -just in case ! I used 8mm hex socket to open drain plug - I used new magnetic plug from Pelican which takes 10mm hex to replace. (Dont; forget to order the drain plug washer also). Harbor Freight has a set of hex sockets for <$10.
3. Oil does not really need to be warm to drain (0W40 pours very easily at room temp). To finish draining, I removed the ramp and let the car back off the jack - so it was flat on garage floor.
4. After letting drain for 20 mins (or so) - I jacked the car back up onto the ramp - and used a CTA Tools 76mm x 14 flute METAL cap oil filter wrench to remove the stock oil filter cover (the Penzoil plastic cap from the local parts store did not work (slips) - I found the CTA one at Winchester Auto Parts in San Jose).
5. Installed the drain plug with new washer - used Torque wrench (Harbor Freight has a nice wrench on sale for $9.99 all the time). Put in new filter (Hengst from Pelican) and screwed cover back on (with new oiled washer). Again torque wrench on the cap wrench takes the guessing out of how far to tighten.
6. Let the car back down off jack - added 8 qts of mobile 1 0W40 - checked level on dip stick added last 1/2 quart (I don't like to have the oil level 100% full). When I checked on instrument electronic level - oil looks over full, until you start the engine and let everything circulate into the filter etc.
7. Checked for leaks - and then onto the next job.
8. Removing the air box is easy (one 14mm nut to the right of the engine cover release) - however removing the MAF sensor from the airbox first - proved more of an issue. On my model (2002 996.2) they use two torx 20 (or star) screws to hold it in - and these are not standard torx sockets - but TAMPER PROOF - so I had to make a trip to Harbor Frieght again to get a set of STAR Bits (Tamper Proof is hollow in the middle) - on sale for $8.99 for a whole set. Then removing the MAF was easy - there are also two clips for the cable, which is easy to remove. I protected the MAF in a ziplock bag while I removed the airbox (need to unclip the oil filler hose and loosen the rubber boot the connects the air box to the intake)
9. Once airbox is out - it is easy to change the airfilter (also easy to do when still in the car - but I had it out anyway to do the poly belt). Just loosen the screws around the edge of the box.
10. The Poly Belt is very easy to access then. I needed to buy a closed end 24mm wrench to move the belt tensioner (push the wrench clockwise and the tensioner pully moves down which makes the belt slack to take off the pulleys). I made a drawing of how the belt threads around the pulleys so I get it back in the right position. Getting the belt off the bottom left pulley requires twisting it slightly and pushing between the pulley and engine brace - but is very easy. Push the new belt on in the same way. I used the Contiental belt from Pelican - which is 1/2 price of the Porsche OEM (I'm sure also made by Conti).
11. Someone said that getting the new belt back on was tricky - needed to push the tensioner down and use a flat blade screw driver to lever the belt over the last pulley. I was trying this without success - but then realized that it is much easier to push the belt onto the smooth guide pully as the last one - so thread the belt over all the grooved pulleys first - and then you can easily push the belt over the smooth guide as the last step (which pushing the tensioner down).
12. Put the airbox back on, screwed in MAF, crossed fingers, fired her up, and everything looks good.
13. I think I'm going to go to my Indie next week to do the plugs, window regulator and transmission fluid however - but I probably saved $400 or so (including the tools I had to buy) doing the easy parts myself. Having the right tools is key !
03-11-2012, 10:51 PM
#2
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I've had the car a year now (996.2 targa) and decided to change oil, air filter & poly belt. Lots of good info on the forum & some good youtube videos out here - but here are a few comments that might help others doing it for the first time.
1. To change oil, only need to jack up car on passenger side (right side if looking from rear). I put rear wheel under ramp once I jacked it up far enough (don't want to be under the car if on jack alone). You don't need to go too far under the car to open the oil drain plug. Dont' forget to chock the other wheels.
2. Put lots of cardboard/paper under the oil pan -just in case ! I used 8mm hex socket to open drain plug - I used new magnetic plug from Pelican which takes 10mm hex to replace. (Dont; forget to order the drain plug washer also). Harbor Freight has a set of hex sockets for <$10.
3. Oil does not really need to be warm to drain (0W40 pours very easily at room temp). To finish draining, I removed the ramp and let the car back off the jack - so it was flat on garage floor.
4. After letting drain for 20 mins (or so) - I jacked the car back up onto the ramp - and used a CTA Tools 76mm x 14 flute METAL cap oil filter wrench to remove the stock oil filter cover (the Penzoil plastic cap from the local parts store did not work (slips) - I found the CTA one at Winchester Auto Parts in San Jose).
5. Installed the drain plug with new washer - used Torque wrench (Harbor Freight has a nice wrench on sale for $9.99 all the time). Put in new filter (Hengst from Pelican) and screwed cover back on (with new oiled washer). Again torque wrench on the cap wrench takes the guessing out of how far to tighten.
6. Let the car back down off jack - added 8 qts of mobile 1 0W40 - checked level on dip stick added last 1/2 quart (I don't like to have the oil level 100% full). When I checked on instrument electronic level - oil looks over full, until you start the engine and let everything circulate into the filter etc.
7. Checked for leaks - and then onto the next job.
8. Removing the air box is easy (one 14mm nut to the right of the engine cover release) - however removing the MAF sensor from the airbox first - proved more of an issue. On my model (2002 996.2) they use two torx 20 (or star) screws to hold it in - and these are not standard torx sockets - but TAMPER PROOF - so I had to make a trip to Harbor Frieght again to get a set of STAR Bits (Tamper Proof is hollow in the middle) - on sale for $8.99 for a whole set. Then removing the MAF was easy - there are also two clips for the cable, which is easy to remove. I protected the MAF in a ziplock bag while I removed the airbox (need to unclip the oil filler hose and loosen the rubber boot the connects the air box to the intake)
9. Once airbox is out - it is easy to change the airfilter (also easy to do when still in the car - but I had it out anyway to do the poly belt). Just loosen the screws around the edge of the box.
10. The Poly Belt is very easy to access then. I needed to buy a closed end 24mm wrench to move the belt tensioner (push the wrench clockwise and the tensioner pully moves down which makes the belt slack to take off the pulleys). I made a drawing of how the belt threads around the pulleys so I get it back in the right position. Getting the belt off the bottom left pulley requires twisting it slightly and pushing between the pulley and engine brace - but is very easy. Push the new belt on in the same way. I used the Contiental belt from Pelican - which is 1/2 price of the Porsche OEM (I'm sure also made by Conti).
11. Someone said that getting the new belt back on was tricky - needed to push the tensioner down and use a flat blade screw driver to lever the belt over the last pulley. I was trying this without success - but then realized that it is much easier to push the belt onto the smooth guide pully as the last one - so thread the belt over all the grooved pulleys first - and then you can easily push the belt over the smooth guide as the last step (which pushing the tensioner down).
12. Put the airbox back on, screwed in MAF, crossed fingers, fired her up, and everything looks good.
13. I think I'm going to go to my Indie next week to do the plugs, window regulator and transmission fluid however - but I probably saved $400 or so (including the tools I had to buy) doing the easy parts myself. Having the right tools is key !
1. To change oil, only need to jack up car on passenger side (right side if looking from rear). I put rear wheel under ramp once I jacked it up far enough (don't want to be under the car if on jack alone). You don't need to go too far under the car to open the oil drain plug. Dont' forget to chock the other wheels.
2. Put lots of cardboard/paper under the oil pan -just in case ! I used 8mm hex socket to open drain plug - I used new magnetic plug from Pelican which takes 10mm hex to replace. (Dont; forget to order the drain plug washer also). Harbor Freight has a set of hex sockets for <$10.
3. Oil does not really need to be warm to drain (0W40 pours very easily at room temp). To finish draining, I removed the ramp and let the car back off the jack - so it was flat on garage floor.
4. After letting drain for 20 mins (or so) - I jacked the car back up onto the ramp - and used a CTA Tools 76mm x 14 flute METAL cap oil filter wrench to remove the stock oil filter cover (the Penzoil plastic cap from the local parts store did not work (slips) - I found the CTA one at Winchester Auto Parts in San Jose).
5. Installed the drain plug with new washer - used Torque wrench (Harbor Freight has a nice wrench on sale for $9.99 all the time). Put in new filter (Hengst from Pelican) and screwed cover back on (with new oiled washer). Again torque wrench on the cap wrench takes the guessing out of how far to tighten.
6. Let the car back down off jack - added 8 qts of mobile 1 0W40 - checked level on dip stick added last 1/2 quart (I don't like to have the oil level 100% full). When I checked on instrument electronic level - oil looks over full, until you start the engine and let everything circulate into the filter etc.
7. Checked for leaks - and then onto the next job.
8. Removing the air box is easy (one 14mm nut to the right of the engine cover release) - however removing the MAF sensor from the airbox first - proved more of an issue. On my model (2002 996.2) they use two torx 20 (or star) screws to hold it in - and these are not standard torx sockets - but TAMPER PROOF - so I had to make a trip to Harbor Frieght again to get a set of STAR Bits (Tamper Proof is hollow in the middle) - on sale for $8.99 for a whole set. Then removing the MAF was easy - there are also two clips for the cable, which is easy to remove. I protected the MAF in a ziplock bag while I removed the airbox (need to unclip the oil filler hose and loosen the rubber boot the connects the air box to the intake)
9. Once airbox is out - it is easy to change the airfilter (also easy to do when still in the car - but I had it out anyway to do the poly belt). Just loosen the screws around the edge of the box.
10. The Poly Belt is very easy to access then. I needed to buy a closed end 24mm wrench to move the belt tensioner (push the wrench clockwise and the tensioner pully moves down which makes the belt slack to take off the pulleys). I made a drawing of how the belt threads around the pulleys so I get it back in the right position. Getting the belt off the bottom left pulley requires twisting it slightly and pushing between the pulley and engine brace - but is very easy. Push the new belt on in the same way. I used the Contiental belt from Pelican - which is 1/2 price of the Porsche OEM (I'm sure also made by Conti).
11. Someone said that getting the new belt back on was tricky - needed to push the tensioner down and use a flat blade screw driver to lever the belt over the last pulley. I was trying this without success - but then realized that it is much easier to push the belt onto the smooth guide pully as the last one - so thread the belt over all the grooved pulleys first - and then you can easily push the belt over the smooth guide as the last step (which pushing the tensioner down).
12. Put the airbox back on, screwed in MAF, crossed fingers, fired her up, and everything looks good.
13. I think I'm going to go to my Indie next week to do the plugs, window regulator and transmission fluid however - but I probably saved $400 or so (including the tools I had to buy) doing the easy parts myself. Having the right tools is key !
03-12-2012, 02:49 PM
#4
Pro
Thread Starter
Well it was my first time ! Actually, the point was it was very easy - if you have the right tools and know a couple of tricks. Oil took me less than 1 hours (probably much less if I do it again) and belt/air filter about 30 minutes - again could probably do it faster next time. Last time I worked on my own car as a 1967 Triumph Spitfire - and pretty much the only tool you needed was a hammer !
03-12-2012, 03:22 PM
#5
Well it was my first time ! Actually, the point was it was very easy - if you have the right tools and know a couple of tricks. Oil took me less than 1 hours (probably much less if I do it again) and belt/air filter about 30 minutes - again could probably do it faster next time. Last time I worked on my own car as a 1967 Triumph Spitfire - and pretty much the only tool you needed was a hammer !
