Ahsai

Does anyone know if Durametric can indicate the health of the catalytic converters? If so, which value I should look at and how to interpret those? I'm sure the dealer can do that with their factor tester since a tech told me before.

TIA

Macster

If the Durametric tool can read the state of the CEL (check engine light) query for active and pending DTCs and read/report the status of the readiness codes, then yes.

And I am pretty sure the Durametric tool can do all of the above, because even less expensive OBD2 code reader/data viewer can.

The converter health is checked by the DME using the voltage signals from the #2 O2 sensors. These are the sensors, one after each converter.

If the CEL is off; if there are no active error codes (in case the CEL bulb is burned out or removed; if there are no pending error codes and if the readiness monitor statuses for the converters, O2 sensors and O2 sensor heaters are all set to complete the converters are in good health.

The DME checks these at least once per trip.

If there is any other method it is outside of OBD2 compliance and thus is Porsche proprietary.

Sincerely,

Macster.

Ahsai

Thanks, Macster. I was hoping there's some auto-test that can be triggered that gives you some value that directly reflects the condition of the cats. I know that Audi does.

My car has no CEL and is fine. I'm just curious whether I can know the general health of my cats as a baseline for futher reference.

Macster

Well, curiosity is often good, but in this case maybe not so much.

Converters generally last a long time and when they start to go bad you'll know it soon enough.

Once one is bad there's not much you can do to resurrect it. (I have managed to nurse a sick (but not dead) converter on my 02 Boxster now for a couple years. Might add the converters -- the sick one and the 'healthy' one -- now both have over 250K miles on them.)

Unless you cover big miles chances are the converters on your car will be just fine when you move the car along to another owner.

What you can do is try to take steps to prolong the life of the converters. (As an aside these steps can help prolong the life of the car and make your time with the car far more enjoyable.)

There aren't many steps.

Run a name brand/quality gas. Run the right octane rating of gas. Buy the gas from a busy station.

Don't underestimate the importance of good gasoline. It is a vital fluid as vital to the engine (nearly) as much as oil.

Good gas helps keep the fuel system clean. A clean fuel system and good gas promotes good combustion. Good combustion promotes converter longevity. And sensor longevity. And good gas mileage. And good driveability. And so on.

Run the right oil. Avoid an oil that has additives in amounts that are deemed harmful to the converters.

I would add change the oil and filter at reasonable intervals. It does no good to own a car with healthy converters if the engine's sick due to running the wrong oil or not changing the right oil often enough.

Keep up on other services: engine air intake filter; fuel filter (if applicable); plugs; other vital fluid services; and so on.

Use and enjoy the car.

Sincerely,

Macster.

Ahsai

Thanks, Macster. Completely agree. I always keep my car in top shape by doing all the required maintenance on time. So far I only have a stored P1341 code I'm trying to track down. CEL was never ON.

Macster

My 02 Boxster logged an P1341: Camshaft adjustment, bank 1 signal implausible, signal below limit, signal above limit; as a pending DTC when what proved to be a bad VarioCam solenoid (and actuator) on the passenger side happened.

No CEL and no error when the engine suddenly started running rough, but a read of pending codes turned up the P1341.

Sincerely,

Macster.

Ahsai

Thanks Macster for the info. I'll keep that in mind. I've decided to leave it alone for now since the engine is smooth. Also, camshaft deviation of bank 1 is spot on so the issue could be just intermittent. May log a long drive to see if anything strange shows up.

Mine is an '03 Variocam+ so replacing the solenoid (4way hydraulic valve) should be as simlpe as replacing a spark plug.