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Small drip from oil drain plug

 
Old 12-22-2011, 04:18 PM
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SnapSlap
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Default Small drip from oil drain plug

So I did a DIY oil change the other day finally. I changed the washer on the drain plug but noticed a slow drip last night. I am guessing the only way to fix is to pull the plug, try another washer and re-install which means 90$ in oil to waste. Any hard done in getting a few miles out of the oil before fixing the leak? Oil pressure good and still shows full...
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Old 12-22-2011, 04:21 PM
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you could verify the torque on the plug. Sometimes just a little more is all that is needed to crush the washer enough for a good seal.
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Old 12-22-2011, 04:38 PM
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Unless it's already stripped...

Clean your drain pain really well or buy yourself a new drain pan. Drain oil, reinstall plug, refill oil with drained sample.
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Old 12-22-2011, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by SnapSlap View Post
So I did a DIY oil change the other day finally. I changed the washer on the drain plug but noticed a slow drip last night. I am guessing the only way to fix is to pull the plug, try another washer and re-install which means 90$ in oil to waste. Any hard done in getting a few miles out of the oil before fixing the leak? Oil pressure good and still shows full...
If you're sure the leak is from the drain plug then you can drain the oil into a *clean* drain pan.

Then examine the sealing surfaces of the drain plug, the sealing ring and the oil sump.

If the drain plug or sealing ring show any surface damage replacing them both is probably a good idea.

If the oil sump's sealing surface is damaged...

You might have to live with this or if you can't then remove the sump and replace it with a new one with an undamaged sealing surface.

If you believe you can live with this leaking drain plug/oil sump interface, there is always the risk, granted most likely small but not zero, that if there's a leak there is the possibilty the drain plug may not be as secure/tight as it should be.

I would not apply more torque. The seal is created by the coming together of a correct and *new* sealing ring between a drain plug in good and clean condition and an oil sump drain hole and sealing surface also in good shape and clean.

It is so important when changing the oil to use a new ring, and the proper one not just something out the junk drawer that 'fits', and making sure both the drain plug threads and its sealing surface are clean and free of any damage, and the same goes for the oil sump threads and its sealing surface.

When the drain plug is tightened the ring experiences some deformation. Not much -- the ring is made out of a pretty hard material (purposely so) -- but if you look at the ring that was used you'll see the deformation.

If the ring is reused this deformation can damage the sealing surface of the drain plug or the sump.

The drain plug of course is easily replaced (I carry a new one in the center storage of each of my cars just in case). The oil sump is not so easily replaced.

Sincerely,

Macster.
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Old 12-22-2011, 06:35 PM
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drain plug torque to 37 ft lb. check it
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Old 12-22-2011, 09:15 PM
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Did ya cut up the filter and examine it?
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Old 12-22-2011, 10:28 PM
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If you drain the oil into a very clean container, just pour it back in the car.
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Old 12-23-2011, 03:13 AM
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The OP considers living with a leaking crankcase drain plug and might pour used oil back into the engine of an exotic sports car with known lubrication related deficiencies to save $90. Something seems amiss here.
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Old 12-23-2011, 06:29 AM
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I would simply torque the drain plug to 37 ft/lb. If that doesnt work, get a new plug and washer and re-use the oil from a clean container as Ubermensch suggests.
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Old 12-23-2011, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by j beede View Post
The OP considers living with a leaking crankcase drain plug and might pour used oil back into the engine of an exotic sports car with known lubrication related deficiencies to save $90. Something seems amiss here.
What would be the point of losing $90 worth of brand new oil? he just changed it sport. Known lubrication related deficiencies? I believe it's time to lump this guy in with KrazyK....
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Old 12-23-2011, 12:15 PM
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+1 Jim.
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Old 12-23-2011, 12:20 PM
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"sport"
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Old 12-23-2011, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by soverystout View Post
What would be the point of losing $90 worth of brand new oil? he just changed it sport. Known lubrication related deficiencies? I believe it's time to lump this guy in with KrazyK....
Snout,
If you think about it, you will recall that the root casue of the IMS issue is likely inadequate lubrication of the bearing. Put the used synthetic oil in your lawn tractor or in your Suburban... not in the P-car. It's just not right.
Merry xmas, j
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Old 12-23-2011, 01:25 PM
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The second he opens the seal on the quart of oil it's used.

The second he starts the engine it's used. How long has it been used?

10 miles? 100 miles? 5000 miles?

If the oil has been used for 10 miles, would you replace it again if you drained it from your engine?

Just because oil has been in the engine and then drained, once it comes out of the engine doesn't mean the oil is suddenly "bad" and "used" and must be replaced.
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Old 12-23-2011, 01:47 PM
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When I changed my expansion tank and then later the water pump, I drained the coolant into a clean container, filtered it through a clean cloth and reused it because it was fairly new. Why dispose of it just because it came out of the car. I would reuse fresh oil if it had to be drained to change/inspect the drain plug.
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