Paseb

Hi guys,

im in need of 2 front rotors and i was about to purchase sebro crossed drilled rotors. The more i read in threads, i realised that lot of people are buying slotted rotors intead when they are doing lot of track and thats my case.

my car is for sale and looking for a 6gt3 but if it doesnt sell, i will need to buy 2 front rotors for next year.

my plan is to get sebro rotors

should i get cross drilled or slotted ones?

as for the pads, im already on pagid yellow front and stock rear, maybe planning to buy pagid black for the rear...

thanks for the help!

Barn996

I'm not a track rat, but my understanding is that slotted rotors won't crack like the drilled rotors have a tendency to do. Best of luck on getting a GT3, who doesn't have that hope.

LC MotorSports

Seb,
The debate is as old as time itself. Solid, cross drilled or slotted... Which is better?
The main advantages of drilled and slotted discs are the same: increased brake "bite", and a continuous refreshing of the brake pad surface. Drilled discs have the additional advantage of being lighter and running cooler. However, there are certain pad materials that shorten the life of a drilled disc by the increased thermal exposure they subject the rotor too.

Slotted rotors are nice for Full track use as they can then transfer the heat load more uniform across the disc w/o "Thermal Hot Zones" around the holes.

We carry both options and would be able to hook you up...

LC MotorSports

Foot note:
The RS29 front / RS14 rear will help balance out the brake bias front/rear. You will love the mix! This is the combination that we suggest and run on our cars.

ltusler

+29 and +14 on the above!

himself

Not drilled for the front. On a heavily used track 996 the solid slotted/dimpled rotors add extra mass that reduces transfer of thermal energy to the calipers and ultimately the fluid. Also certain pads are better at limiting heat transfer to the calipers. Pagids are great until about they are half gone. After that they push too much heat into the caliper. PFC are great to the backing plates.

Also, if you are having heat issues, get the GT3 pass internal air vents (in addition to the brake ducts). On my old car I tried just about every tool to reduce heat. Untimately, PFC dimpled rotors, GT3 internal ducting, GT3 brake ducts, PFC pads and motul 600 worked flawlessly at any track nearby, even back to back sessions.

You can use cross drilled in the rear without any issues.

Also, all rotors will crack. Cross drilled or not.

-td

LC MotorSports

Sure, if you want a 2 piece design at the price point of PFC's dimpled rotors... Why not go with AP or Alcon!

The key with any of this is Heat Managment. You can place any Rotor/Pad/fluid combination on the car and if your not able manage the Heat... then you are wasting money on it all.

You put enough heat into any metal and it will Crack....

philooo

I have pfc pads on stock rotors and it works very well. stock rotors are fine unless you run Hoosier tires may be...

vange_c4s

the debate is endless - i would think that the more heat capacity of the brakes would result in longer wear and more consistant stopping. so, i see race cars with flat rotors - does this help with heat dissipation? longer pad wear? on the other hand drilled or slotted rotors look quite nice. i just dont know if they work better?

Paseb

im not using any gt3 duct or anything

i bought gt3 ducts for my dad's cayman but i should also buy some for me, they are really cheap

my front pagid yellow are almost new, so i dont plan to change to pfc pads...


i will get slotted rotors, rs14(rear pads), gt3 ducts to start the new season. will see how it goes from there

philooo

FYI I bought the gt3 duct, they might offer some better ir flow but it is marginal. anyways with the proper pads and coolant, you don't really need that additional air unless you really stop really hard... which would require for your to run hoosier, if not your brakes would overpower/lock the wheels.