Kahdmus

Didn't see a speed bump and flew over it far too quickly. Peering under the car with flashlight, looks like I picked up a minor drip from the black pipe that passes horizontally in front of the oil filter. Anyone know which pipe I mean from my vague description? Is this an easy one to replace? Can it be tightened, if I just loosened it (looks like a jubilee clip on there?)






God what a crappy year. Can't wait to say goodbye to 2011..nothing has gone right, especially car-wise, lol!

Cheers,

--Howard

Doug996InKC

Your photo shows a coolant pipe and hose. Check that the hard pipe wasn't punctured. Even if it was, it's an easy DIY replacement. Hopefully, it's only the clamp that holds the hose onto the pipe is missing. Just buy a worm-clamp style to replace it. Depending on how much coolant has been lost, you may need to vacuum more coolant into the system.

Kahdmus

Thanks Doug!

The reservoir is still between min and max and just drove for ~ 40 minutes.

What is normal operating temp? I stayed right in the center of the dial at 180.

Kahdmus

Another question...

What is above that pipe? Could something be leaking above and dripping onto it?

Torontoworker

I'm a half-glass full kinda guy so I say you DID have something go right. You dodged a bullet here because you could have easily ripped open the plastic filter housing and dumped all of your oil out potentially damaging your engine. So it was a good year from what didn't happen.

Happy Holidays sir.

logray

That is a hose and line for the heater core loop.

Drain the block of coolant, replace the hoses, line, and clamps, add back what you drained plus distilled H20 to make up what spilled, bleed the system, clean, and monitor for leaks.

What model and year is your car and is it a manual or tip and I can get you the part numbers you need to order.

The oil cooler which can also leak coolant is approximately in the same position, on top of the engine, but it seems unlikely it was damaged by running over something.

Kahdmus

Thanks Logray, my car is a 2002 C4 manual.

If it was leaking badly, wouldn't I see the reservoir go down? Or temp go up? Car is safe to drive?

Thanks so much chaps, really appreciate the help. I'm at home on the 964 board, nice to find out how helpful the 996 board is too! Cheers!

CW-VIESOCK

If you didn't grind the pipe or puncture the flex tubing, remove or just move down the tube, that spring crimp and install a "real" hose clamp.

When the new clamp is tight, get up to op temp (175), turn on heater and look for dripping. None? Shut off engine and let cool. Dripping? If no, you fixed it. If yes, you have a more complicated issue.

logray

For a 2002 C4 manual.

Prices from sunset Porsche:
small soft hose to engine 99610623356 $9.84
hard tube (in your pic) 99610624255 $48.46
longer soft hose (in your pic) going to heater core hard line 99610621259 $15.87

+1 to trying a new clamp first, although if it wasn't leaking before but it is now, chances are there is some damage there.

For clamps I like to use the marine grade stainless clamps such as these from west marine. They are 2-3x more expensive than a normal hose clamp, but the underside is totally smooth, so it won't damage (tear into) the hose as you tighten it down.



http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...classNum=50652

It's safe to drive the car. The car holds 6 gallons of water/coolant mix, so if it's just a drip is not going to show up (although it might introduce air in the system). If it's gushing out or more serious than just a drip keep a watchful eye on the coolant level, raise the bleeder valve, and keep a gallon of distilled water in your trunk for wherever you need to go until you fix it.

With the above parts I recommend all new clamps, you'll need 3 of them around 1" size IIRC.

I would have a look above the area with a flashlight and make sure the leak is not coming from above. You can clean the area with a rag and some water and then see if it comes back, then you know where the leak is coming from.

(oh and coolant is very toxic, if you don't have a mechanic repair this issue, DO wear protective goggles and gloves !!!!, dispose of it properly)

Kahdmus

Ok, jacked her up and took a look:

I've bent the hard pipe and split the rubber hose that connects to it at the front. So replacing the metal pipe and rubber hose plus clamps and refill of coolant should fix it.

Shop labor time? I'm thinking not much as it 'looks' straightforward...

Cheers!

logray

Shop time maybe 1 hour including refill using vacuum method.

Kahdmus

Does coolant have to be vacuumed into the system? If diy'ing can it not just be poured into the reservoir?

Also, Ive topped up with distilled water, therefore the ratio of water to coolant is getting wider. Is this ok? As long as not overheating I presume I'm alright?

garrett376

Howard, I won't offer you any advice unless you show us what your shifter looks like...

garrett376

In our part of the country, you're fine with a slightly-off mixture; some race cars are running water-only or a much lower antifreeze amount than 50/50. You don't have to do any special vacuum procedure if you're low or if you replace that line and drain a bunch out - just add the used, drained solution back to the right level with the pressure valve in the up position and run the car so it's hot and adjust the level of fluid if needed. The system does work to self bleed, too, so don't stress out.

If you're passing through Southern Cal, I'll help you fix it if you want!

Kahdmus

Haha Garrett...2 p-cars later and it will never die!!!!

Thanks for reassurance guys! I keep topping off with distiller water, so mixture will be more than just 'slightly' off I expect. I'm thinking that over-heating is the only thing I need to worry about?