Brake Light Switch
#1
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Brake Light Switch
I did some researching but couldn't find the answer. Does anyone know where I can find detailed instructions on replacing the brake light switch on an '03 996 C2?
My brake lights are flashing - turning on when pressing the brake pedal gently down (25-50% pressure) but turn right off if I press the brake fully down(100% pressure).
I'm assuming it's the brake light switch needing to be replaced.
I recently had the brake system flushed and noticed a slight difference in the brake pressure. This is also about the time the brake lights started acting up.
My brake lights are flashing - turning on when pressing the brake pedal gently down (25-50% pressure) but turn right off if I press the brake fully down(100% pressure).
I'm assuming it's the brake light switch needing to be replaced.
I recently had the brake system flushed and noticed a slight difference in the brake pressure. This is also about the time the brake lights started acting up.
Last edited by atx.911; 12-10-2011 at 05:44 PM.
#3
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Same as Boxster:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...l_Switches.htm
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...l_Switches.htm
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Thanks fpb111 ! Do you think this will solve the problem of the brake lights barely flashing on when the brake pedal is pressed?
Do you know if there is any kind of adjustment or way to tweak the lights on how much the brake lights stay on when the brake pedal is pressed?
Do you know if there is any kind of adjustment or way to tweak the lights on how much the brake lights stay on when the brake pedal is pressed?
#5
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It sounds like your switch may have worn/dirty/weak/bad internal contacts.
Look at the brake light switch. You can pull the actuator pin towards the pedal while pushing the pedal to take up free play. If the switch is working correctly it will self adjust. If not the switch may be shot.
You could take the switch out pull the spade connectors and connect the two wires together to see if your brake lights come on, and stay on, while you have them connected together. If they stay on replace the switch ($25-30?). If the problem is still there it is something else.
Look at the brake light switch. You can pull the actuator pin towards the pedal while pushing the pedal to take up free play. If the switch is working correctly it will self adjust. If not the switch may be shot.
You could take the switch out pull the spade connectors and connect the two wires together to see if your brake lights come on, and stay on, while you have them connected together. If they stay on replace the switch ($25-30?). If the problem is still there it is something else.
#6
atx, I had the exact same problem and the switch was the culprit. Make sure you get the correct one as the clutch and brake look the same but will not interchange. Mine went out while several hundred miles from home so I stopped at an advance auto but the switch they sold me looked identical but would not work correctly. When I got home I went to the local P dealer and the replacement worked perfectly. It has been about a year and still no issues. You can find detailed info over at Rentech. Tons of resources for the DIY and Loren is a great help.
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atx, I had the exact same problem and the switch was the culprit. Make sure you get the correct one as the clutch and brake look the same but will not interchange. Mine went out while several hundred miles from home so I stopped at an advance auto but the switch they sold me looked identical but would not work correctly. When I got home I went to the local P dealer and the replacement worked perfectly. It has been about a year and still no issues. You can find detailed info over at Rentech. Tons of resources for the DIY and Loren is a great help.
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#8
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It literally takes longer to situate yourself under the dash than it does to replace this switch. Just twist it 1/2 turn and pull it off to replace.
I just had mine replaced two weeks ago which is why this is fresh in my mind!
I just had mine replaced two weeks ago which is why this is fresh in my mind!
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Did you have any trouble getting the new one twisted into place? I can put the switch into place but I cannot twist it in either direction. I even tried filing down the "prongs" on the side closest to the box but it seems that twisting the switch into place is not doing the trick.
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Did you have any trouble getting the new one twisted into place? I can put the switch into place but I cannot twist it in either direction. I even tried filing down the "prongs" on the side closest to the box but it seems that twisting the switch into place is not doing the trick.
I then pulled on it and the plunger extended and now fits perfectly.
But back to your original question I just lined up the prongs with the indentations on the metal and insert. Once inserted twist clockwise and it should "click" and you're all set.
Stupid comment time but be positive it's the brake pedal you're accessing and not the clutch. Once you're upside-down it can get confusing when you're working on it.
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No problems at all for me. The one problem I did have is that it seems the switch has two positions for the plunger. One position is shorter than the other. So when I first installed it the plunger was too short and my brake lights stayed on ALL THE TIME which I bet pi$$ed off quite a few people behind me.
I then pulled on it and the plunger extended and now fits perfectly.
But back to your original question I just lined up the prongs with the indentations on the metal and insert. Once inserted twist clockwise and it should "click" and you're all set.
Stupid comment time but be positive it's the brake pedal you're accessing and not the clutch. Once you're upside-down it can get confusing when you're working on it.
I then pulled on it and the plunger extended and now fits perfectly.
But back to your original question I just lined up the prongs with the indentations on the metal and insert. Once inserted twist clockwise and it should "click" and you're all set.
Stupid comment time but be positive it's the brake pedal you're accessing and not the clutch. Once you're upside-down it can get confusing when you're working on it.
What a pain in the ***! If you put the switch in and push it straight back and try to twist it, it didn't work for me. What I had to do was push in the switch, then keeping it pushed in all the way - shift it to the right (facing dash) THEN twist the switch clockwise. I couldn't believe that's all it took. I even filed down some of the prongs etc. thinking that was it. I just had to jiggle it to the right to get it to twist! Oh well hopefully this thread helps whoever the next victim is.
Thanks for the help!
#12
This just happened to my 2002 C4S and fixed it for $0. This might not work for everyone, but I thought I would share. I didn't take any pictures because I didn't know if it'd work so I'll try to describe it the best I can.
The short story:
1. Took out the switch.
2. Took apart the switch. (2 pieces)
3. Reassembled the switch backwards. (180 degree rotation)
4. Put the switch back in.
5. Self-high-five
The long story: I when I took apart the switch I noticed there was two long contacts and two short ones. I saw exactly where the wear was, on one of the short contacts, but only one. The base connected two of the contacts, one short and one long so I assumed these were used for the ground. By flipping the connection between the contacts half and the base half the worn part is now used for the ground and also backed up by the long ground contact.
I expect to get a decent amount of time out of this "fix". (I'd like to believe I doubled the life of the switch)
The short story:
1. Took out the switch.
2. Took apart the switch. (2 pieces)
3. Reassembled the switch backwards. (180 degree rotation)
4. Put the switch back in.
5. Self-high-five
The long story: I when I took apart the switch I noticed there was two long contacts and two short ones. I saw exactly where the wear was, on one of the short contacts, but only one. The base connected two of the contacts, one short and one long so I assumed these were used for the ground. By flipping the connection between the contacts half and the base half the worn part is now used for the ground and also backed up by the long ground contact.
I expect to get a decent amount of time out of this "fix". (I'd like to believe I doubled the life of the switch)
#13
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dann911: Thanks for sharing - very good info. IIRC, it's pretty easy to take the switch apart. When I replaced mine a few months ago, I used a pair of needle nose vise grips to lightly grip the switch because I couldn't get enough torque on it with my fingers to twist it into place. The switch came apart when I twisted it and it thought I had broken it. But I just reassembled it and it just snapped right back together. So I think your fix would be easy to do. It might save someone $30 and a trip to the parts store.
#14
My break light centre light comes on but the other two don't , can it still be the switch? I just bought my Boxster and got it home just to find this issue grr any help would be appreciated and thanks in advance
#15
It's unlikely as the stop lights are all on the same circuit powered by the brake light switch. You may want to check the bulbs.