I'd buy an '02. It has the MK II upgrades, and it's the cheapest of the MK II cars. They didn't really change much between '02 and '04 (or '05, depending on the model). In your price range you could get a C4S. That's what I'd do!

 

think about streching your budget and get into a turbo model, you can get them for $35 to $45 and they are bullet proof in terms of reliability.

I love my 2003 C2 and would not get the turbo as I enjoy the light feel of it, but if you are into brute power , don't dissmiss the turbo, they are getting pretty cheap.

If you go for the C4S, then definitely drive the turbo.

 

It's simple...buy the newest one you can afford.

 

Most of us who are happy with our MY Porsches(myself included) will no doubt suggest to you the same year. I do love my 99' coupe for many of the reasons always listed. But, your available $ to spend might get you a much newer 996, or even close to an early model 997. As others have said, buy the newest Porsche you can afford.GL

 

Thanks all for all the great responses. In general if a car already had the IMS or RMS done is that a good thing? Or if I find a very clean well maintained example with original IMS or RMS, 50k miles and no leaks is that better?

 

There are a large number of water-cooled flat six Porsche engines in Boxsters and 996-997s with a ball bearing supporting one end of the IMS. Some number of them have failed. How many, who knows, some say 1% some say 20%. There are a smaller sub set of the same engines with a higher quality aftermarket bearing kit from LN Engineering. How many have failed? None that we have heard of.

If I were looking at two 996 that I liked equally and one had the LN bearing I would pick that one. YMMV

 

Depends on miles and price I suppose...

 

You're looking for a magic answer that doesn't exist. It's arguably better if it has had the IMS retrofit done but, just know that the IMS retrofit bearing is only good for about 50K miles. So, if plan on keeping it forever, plan on doing it again. Also, if you find that it needs to have its RMS seal replaced then it would be much better if it was already done -- negotiate its replacement in the sales price or walk away. If it doesn't need a new RMS then...well, it doesn't. And, as is true with any car, "no leaks" is better than "with leaks."

A 50K mile car with original IMS and RMS and no leaks could start leaking at 50,001 miles. What you want is a clean, well maintained car with few or no apparent problems (IMHO). Most important is a PPI. Don't skip the PPI for any reason, even if the car you find is at a dealer.

-Eric

 

Thx Frank and Eric for the IMS info. Very helpful.

 

they are all good years.... just get proper history and PPI, don't rush it and ask the RL collective before you buy. GL!

 

I'm stickin with "get the black one"

 

2002 is my target year, Targa came out in 2003 if you want to go that route.

 

Where are you getting the 50k life on the LN bearing? If the specs on the ceramic bearing is far far better than the OEM version and we have seen the OEM last >100k ( I replaced mine at 100k and it was perfect) should the L&N version last longer?

All bets are off on garage queens! Purgatory for a car.

 

2003 is a great vintage. I enjoy mine quite a bit!

 

Eric is just repeating what Jake Raby has suggested. It's all about covering bases around your product, which I can appreciate. The LN bearing is far superior and would most likely never need to be replaced but you'll never hear Jake say that, for good reason.

To provide yet another opinion to the OPs question, buying the newest one you can afford with a documented service history is almost always the best way to go.