redridge

I don't think durametric can trigger the abs, I know the piwi can and I believe that is how the dealers do it.... according to Loren, its not a big deal as its far from the brake calipers to make a difference. The clutch is optional, but I prefer to do it.

ivangene

Pete and I both use the dry method....its easier IMO

as for brake fluid Steve...for street the Castrol GT LMA is cheap and really good...used it on the 996...its like $14/qt vs $35/pint for motul

(guessing on those prices, dont hold me to them)

logray

How much did your bleeder gizmo cost you? That looks really neat.

3 or 4 years ago I did mine the old fashioned way, but this looks really cool, sorta like the uview 55000 coolant vacuum system.

Gaspasser19

+1 This was my understanding too.

I think I'll try the ATE Super Blue next time just for the satisfaction of seeing the color change. I did the brakes and clutch about a year ago. Pretty easy stuff.

dotframe

I got everything from amazon.

The Motul was $15 for each 500mL bottle.
The "black label" Motive bleeder was $69. The difference between it and the regular one is the aluminum cap that swivels vs the standard plastic one that doesn't swivel.
The magnetic bottle was $10

Van

You bled the clutch, too... right?

Good work - it's satisfying, isn't it!

speed rII

Yep, do not mix Motul with Castrol or normal DOT5 fluids.

I think that the abs and clutch system should be flushed allso.

Motul rbf600

The stock fluids will work fine (must be fresh) for the stock brakepad's.

I think that the main reason for brake fade is that the driver don't know how to brake right.
(This is just my observation, not related to the OP of this thread )

Hardback

Dotframe thanks for the writeup. I used a Motive bleeder a few weeks ago before an event. Very easy to do with the pressurized container. Only needed 1 set of hands and worth the $45.00 investment for future brake jobs.

Anyone contemplating doing this themselves.... do it... with this setup the hardest part is removing/re-installing the wheels. I bought an impact hammer and now tire changing and brake maintenace are a breeze.

philooo

I admit as well that brake fade is a common newbie error that I did myself for quite some time. when you start you brake too soon too long. the idea to avoid brake fade is to brake hard but not long. minimizing the time on the brake and increasing cooling times.

gray911

I think this is a very useful thread in terms of stating the amount of fluid to drain per caliper to prevejt from using the blue fluid.

Ubermensch

Gray, keep in mind those volumes are approximate. Ideally I like to change from blue to gold to keep things easy.

Cycling the ABS shouldn't be necessary unless you introduce air into the system. To avoid that situation I don't completely drain the reservoir. I pull probably 150-200 ml. I've never measured but I think my syringe is 50 ml and I get 3 good pulls.

GearC4Se

Anything different for cars with PSM? Heard something about the valves needing to be opened/closed with the software.

targa996

I didn't even need to remove the wheels - can access the bleed nipples through the turbo twists ... So I guess it depends what wheels you have. Used ATE200 fluid ... No issues at the track ...

vandersmith

How do you get to the inside bleeder valve with the wheels on?

Seems like a lot of effort, not sure how you could fit in a wrench nor connect the drain hose properly with that little clearance

Small hands?

Gator996

If you have a Motive, be sure to check the hose and replace periodically. I was bleeding my brakes last night when the hose from the tank sprung a leak in-line and sprayed pressurized brake fluid all over my car. Great tool though. Just fyi.