I have been driving my 2003 996 2-3 times a week all of summer. Unfortunately, my commute to work is only 5 minutes and I used to make a loop and turn it into a 20 minute drive whenever I took my p-car.

As it started getting colder here in Wisconsin, I pulled it out only on weekends for longer drives. Yesterday, I started the car and left her on idle for
a couple of minutes and then on reverse gear, backed out of the garage. And when I was completely out, I started feeling heavy vibrations and I saw the check engine light come up. Parked her right back in.

I know this is not enough information to diagnose much. But, has anyone here experienced anything similar to this. I will be taking her to my local Indy to get it checked out this afternoon. But it will be good to here from you guys before that. I am also wondering if it is okay forme to drive 5 miles to the mechanic shop or if I should get her towed.

Appreciate your help!

 

Not sure, but is the CEL flashing on and off or steady?

 

If you don't have a code reader...

If the CEL is flashing don't drive it, have it towed.

Even if the CEL isn't flashing, since you had heavy vibrations, I would consider not driving it and have it towed since it is such a short distance the tow will be cheap (or maybe free if you have AAA/etc.).

I wouldn't restart the engine until you get those codes read.

 

Definitely read the codes, but my wild guess is that it's a misfire issue likely due to bad plugs or coilpacks. Let us know what codes you get.

Shawn

 

+1

 

bad fuel?

 

Good question. My take is the owner has been putting few miles on the car and then the weather turns cold. Not only does the tank still have 'summer' blended gas in it but likely what gas it has in it is stale.

Sincerely,

Macster.

 

Thank you all for your responses.

I was pretty sure it's not the fuel issue. I have been putting about 250-300 miles a week. It turns out that it was mis-firing due to a bad coil. Changed the coil and my baby is rockin' again
Was real nervous until I got a call back from my Indy.

Getting her ready now for hibernating with oil change, fresh fluids, lubrication for the roof, fuel stabil, etc etc. I know I will get a lot of boos for the winter storage but unfortunately I cannot afford winter tires/wheels right now

Thanks again for your comments/advice. You guys r awesome!

 

Nice to hear that it was 'only' a coil pack, good for you.

 

Better safe than sorry, and glad it was a simple fix.

 

winter storage and yet somehow I am excited about the chance of snow...love driving these cars in the snow...one of the absolute best snow cars I have ever owned... I plan to park the suburban for winter

 

Ivagene, is yours a c2 or a c4? Love your attitude! In the 996 world, I am probably what they call "newbies/virgins" and you are obviously on the other extreme end

May be in a couple of years, I ll end up driving my car in the snow and not worry so much about her feeling cold :P

 

Had the coil pack changed and took the car for a drive, everything seemed fine. After a couple of hours, started it again and left it on idle for a couple of minutes. CEL is back on. Drove it and the same mis-firing and vibrations!

My mechanic thought it must be the spark plug because the error code was pointing to the same cylinder. He did that and it seemed fine initially only to see the CEL and mis-firing again after a bit of idling.

After a day of diagnosis, he is telling me that he is positive that it is the fuel injector that needs to be replaced which is going to cost me $675 with parts and labor. I am not sure if this is fair because I had paid 584 bucks for the oil change, brake fluid replacement, and replacing the cool packs before hand. He might take off the cost of the coil but another 675 bucks to replace the fuel injector?

So, what do tou guys think? Is it a reasonable price? Should I go ahead with it?

 

Well the injectors are around $150-$200 ea. IIRC. So if he's replacing one injector, factor 475 for labor @ 125/hr lets say = 3-4 hours of work, maybe a little high if it is injector #1 or #4. Some are easier to get to than others. If it's near the back of the engine those are a PITA without removing lots of stuff.

You would be lucky if it is a cylinder closer to the front of the engine.

So is it a little high? Maybe, but maybe not that high of a price if it is injector #3 or #6, or even 2 or 5 would be somewhat of a pain too without ripping lots of stuff apart.

 

Thanks logray,

It's injector 6. I just called Sunset and found the price too. Pelican Parts are a bit cheaper. He is trying to find parts for less which can lower my cost but it is good to know that the labor to replace the injector takes about 3-4 hrs. May be 3 hrs since it is #6.

Thanks for the info again.